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Atsidantera: care and cultivation in open ground

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Atsidantera - bulbous plant. Its other name is also known - a fragrant gladiolus. Indeed, there are external similarities with gladiolus, for example, the height, shape and color of leaves, upright stem. But this is where the similarities end, since the atsidantera is much more elegant in its beauty. As for the flavor, it looks like the smell of daffodils.

Atsidantera can not boast of abundant flowering (from one bulb), but it does not last long. The fact is that two or three flowers can bloom at the same time, after they have bloomed out, they need to be removed, then they will be replaced by new ones.

Varieties and types

Atsidantera two-color (gladiolus muriel). The length of the stem, on which the flower is located, can reach a meter in height, while the leaves are 40-50 cm long. The flowers are in the shape of stars, have snow-white or cream shades, and a bright maroon spot spreads out from the center, thus fascinating and pulling the eye towards you.

Tropical atsidantera - has long ribbed leaves and a long erect stem, a little more than a meter, with a soft pink inflorescence with bright crimson spots.

Atsidantera white - has white flowers, without any blotches and distributes a very strong fragrance.

Acridanter cereal - has narrow leaves, and the flowers have delicate pink petals with bright crimson longitudinal stripes emanating from the center of the peduncle.

Short tubularatsidanthera- The flowers have bright purple hues with light and purple stripes resembling a candle flame.

Watering Acidanters

Not a few important factors affecting the healthy growth of the flower, is the correct watering. Watering is often necessary, while avoiding waterlogging.

Therefore, when planting, it is necessary to take care of a good drainage layer. Watering should be repeated as soon as the top layer of soil dries out.

Pot for atsidantery

Pots for planting should have a diameter of about 12-15 cm. It is necessary to plant a plant to a depth of 4-5 cm with 3-4 tubers (for more lush flowering).

It is better not to plant many tubers, otherwise they will be cramped, which will affect growth and flowering. Less is also bad, as the flowering will be unremarkable.

Soil for atsidantery

The composition of the soil for planting acidants should consist of the following components: one part of sand (coarse-grained), one part of sod land, two parts of humus and two parts of leafy earth.

With the maintenance of the home condition, the atsidantera is transplanted annually into a fresh substrate.

Atsidantera landing

Planting is carried out in the spring, to the soil prepared in advance, loosened, fertilized and moistened, to a depth of about 10 cm and at a distance of 20-25 cm from each other and from other plants. Everything also depends on the size of the bulbs themselves, then the distance must be corrected.

There is another secret: in order for an acidide to bloom earlier and to be powerful (longer and lush flowering) and healthy, it must be grown in pots in advance (in March), and then (in May) planted in open ground.

Pruning Acidanters

If for the reproduction of this flower will not be used the seed method, then it is necessary to remove faded flowers.

In order not to weaken the plant, but all the useful substances came to the still flowering buds.

Atsidantera storage in winter

Shelter for the winter acidants appropriate, only in the case of warm winters, without severe frosts. In this case, you can cover the acidanter with leaf or straw mulch. Then she can safely spend in one place up to five years.

Otherwise, the tubers are dug up (the ground part is cut off), dried and stored in a paper bag by making holes for airing.

Aroma Acidanters

The only problem that you may encounter when growing acidide indoors is a strong aroma. Therefore, you must make sure that there are no allergies among the tenants of the apartment.

And for the same reason, it is better not to grow a lot of tubers indoors. The best place is a balcony, porch or garden (garden), flower bed.

Atsidantera growing from seed

Atsidanter can be propagated by tubers (bulbs), children and seeds.

Seed method is used very rarely, due to the fact that from such specimens, waiting for flowering for a very long time. Seeds are collected in the fall, or purchased in flower shops.

Sowing seeds for seedlings is carried out in February. To do this, on top of the previously calcined earth (warm in a furnace to get rid of bacteria and parasites), seeds are sown and powdered with a small amount of soil, moistened and covered with a film or glass.

From time to time, air and, if necessary, moisten with a spray bottle. The optimum temperature of the content is + 20 ... + 24 ° C. After two or three weeks, friendly shoots will appear, which will dive into small pots, in which they will grow for two or three years, until the tuber grows to such an extent that it can provide flowering. After the first flowering, young seedlings can be planted safely (in spring) in open ground.

Breeding atsidantery children

Reproduction by means of babies is considered the easiest, as there are a lot of them growing on tubers. They are easily separated, landed on the site.

Care is simple: water, feed, loosen the soil and dig for storage in the winter. In this case, flowering will come only in the third year, since the tubers need to grow and strength (juice) to be able to flowering.

Diseases and pests

The most dangerous for atsidantera, with improper care, can be rotthat is caused by excessive waterlogging. In this case, to save the tuber is no longer possible, it is possible to save only babies, if the rot has not yet had time to spread to them.

In addition, planting a flower (onion) in the open ground is possible only if we are sure that there will be no return frost. The earth should be already well warmed up, and the temperature at night should not fall below 5-8 ° C. Otherwise, the plant will die.

As a preventive measure, before storage, the tubers must be treated with a solution of fungicide, then dried for a couple of weeks and folded for storage in a dry place.

With proper care, the acidantera does not suffer from diseases, but in the case when the plant is in a damp, cool place, the appearance of powdery mildew, rust and root rot.

Regarding the parasites, the frequent guests are slugs and snailswhich need to be collected manually.

In dry weather may come suddenly thrips, aphid and spider mite, in the fight against which will help the treatment with insecticides.

General Description of Acidanters

The flower has a root system, presented in the form of small corms, slightly oblong in shape, which are about 6 cm in diameter. There is also a white, milky core, which is under the scales, brown and slightly netted. The stem of the plant is smooth, straight, in some plant varieties it can reach more than one meter in height. The main part of atsidantery is foliage, which is very much. The leaves are located at the base of the stem. At the very shoot, only a few linear and very dark leaf plates are formed.

At the top of the stem are beautiful large flowers. The size of one petal can reach 10 cm. Their size seems even larger due to the luminous color.. Petals are collected in spicate inflorescences, which contains about 5 flowers. All flowers, as a rule, bloom simultaneously. Each bud forms 6 wide open petals. The bud is attached to the stalk with a long curved tube. It is possible to meet both monophonic types, and motley.

Traditional white colors appear with a pearl shine. But among the variety of species you can also find light pink, pale lilac, cream, dairy and yellow varieties of atsidantery.

Flowering plants begins quite late. Flowers bloom in September or August. But flowering continues until the first frost. After flowering, acidic fruit is formed, which is a long box with a large number of seeds.

Versatility Atsidantery

Atsidanthera is a universal plant due to the fact that in addition to growing in open ground, it can also be maintained as a houseplant or greenhouse plant. Many growers want to see this beautiful flower bloom during the off-season. In spite of the fact that forcing out acid cleaners is quite complicated, it is realistic to ensure that fragrant gladiolus blooms in your home or in the greenhouse with the onset of spring.

Of course, similar universality implies and a variety of care for atsidantery. Weather conditions are very different from stable greenhouse or indoor. That is why there is no guarantee that the summer period will not be rainy and cold. Such adverse conditions can adversely affect flowering plants. If you grow a flower in the role of decorative culture, then you need to implement a number of specific conditions of care.

Necessary conditions for growing

The main necessary conditions for the cultivation of atsidantery is the choice of a sunny place. This condition can be explained by the birthplace of the plant. The plot for growing sweet-scented gladiolus should be fairly quiet and sheltered from the wind.

If you want to grow these plants as indoor, then it should be placed only on the southern windowsills. At the same time it is necessary to avoid direct sunlight on the flower. If the light is not enoughIt is recommended to use phytolamp illumination. In summer, the atsidanter is allowed to take out on the balcony or terrace. Houseplant must be protected from drafts and kept in a room with an air temperature of about 20 degrees.

Particular attention should also be paid to the choice of soil. The soil should be subacidic or neutral. It is recommended to add peat to the substrate. Acidanter prefers to grow in fertile, high-quality, deeply dug up soil. In addition, it is necessary to completely eliminate the risk of stagnant moisture in the soil. It is also recommended to make a good drainage layer. Fragrant gladiolus is allowed to grow in elevated places.

If you decide to grow an acidizer at home, you can use garden soil for cultivation, as well as prepare a loose, air-tight substrate yourself. In this case, the substrate should consist of the following types of land:

  • Two pieces of turf,
  • One piece of sand
  • One piece of leaf humus.

Landing rules:

  • If you scented gladiolus planted in boxes, then you must respect the distance between plants from 12 to 20 cm.
  • For a single planting of plants suitable pot, whose diameter is from 12 to 15 cm, no more, since the excess free soil will not benefit the flower.
  • The recommended planting scheme: from 3 to 5 bulbs on 1 garden container.

Planting and maintenance in the open field

If you are going to grow up an acidist on the street, then the soil needs to be improved in the fall, well in advance, without having to leave this occupation before the arrival of spring. Very important is the timely application of organic fertilizer to the soil. It is recommended to use compost. Soil also needs to be mulched, using peat, hay, straw, humus. If necessary, drainage and sand can be added to the soil. The plot is dug up along with mineral fertilizers, and the planting itself takes place at the end of May. In this case it is necessary to focus on weather conditions.

Tubers atsidantery also need preparation before planting. This procedure should be carried out a few days before planting fragrant gladiolus. Preparation involves the following actions:

  • Corm must be inspected, carefully cleaning from the dry shell.
  • After that, the tubers must be treated in potassium permanganate. This action will serve as a preventive measure against diseases and pests.

The bulbs of the plant in the open ground are planted to a depth of about 10 cm. Such a deep planting will be able to save the tubers in case of unexpected cold snaps. As for the distance between plants, for this it is necessary to take into account the size of the bulbs. For medium tubers, the distance should be from 15 to 20 cm. Accordingly, the distance increases for large tubers, and decreases for smaller ones.. To scented gladiolus I felt quite comfortable in the new place, the interval with other types of garden flowers should be at least 20 cm.

Content

  • 1. Listen to the article (soon)
  • 2. Description
  • 3. Landing
    • 3.1. When to plant
    • 3.2. How to plant
  • 4. Care
    • 4.1. How to care
    • 4.2. Watering and feeding
    • 4.3. Transfer
    • 4.4. Storage
    • 4.5. Breeding
  • 5. Pests and Diseases
  • 6. Types and varieties

Planting and caring for an acidizer (briefly)

  • Bloom: in August and September.
  • Landing: planting bulbs in the ground - in late spring, from late April to late May. From the end of March, it is possible to plant 3-6 plant bulbs in the pot with the ground, as for forcing, put them in a greenhouse or on a bright window-sill, and at the end of May plant them in the ground.
  • Digging up the tubers: with the onset of a steady cooling.
  • Storage: with good ventilation and a temperature of 15-16 ˚C.
  • Lighting: bright sunlight.
  • The soil: easy, fertile, weakly acid reaction.
  • Watering: regular, moderate. During the flowering period, watering is reduced, but the soil at the site is kept wet.
  • Top dressing: 2-3 times per season: prior to planting, organic matter is introduced into the soil, nitrogen fertilizers are added to the period of active growth, and potash-phosphate fertilizers are introduced during the period of bud formation and flowering. It is not recommended to use organic fertilizers.
  • Reproduction: seeds, corms and children.
  • Pests: the plant is damaged by aphids, onion mites, scutes, and slugs.
  • Diseases: root rot, powdery mildew, rust and viral mosaic.

Atsidantera flower - description

Muriel's atsidantera is a perennial plant up to 120 cm high, with rounded white tubers up to 3 cm in diameter in a dense brown shell, simple or branched stems in the upper part, light green leaves or half-meter long and creamy-white flowers with a diameter of 5 to 12 cm, collected in 3-10 pieces in spike inflorescences. The flowers have a sweet, pleasant aroma that attracts bees, a long tube and six pointed petals, acquiring a dark purple, dark crimson or almost black color closer to the base. Atsidantera blooms in August and September. The flowers open in turn from the bottom to the top, so the flowering of each peduncle can last up to a month. Fruit atsidanty - elongated seed box.

When plant atsidanteru.

Since the tropical flower of the atsidantera is distinguished by its thermophilicity, it is planted on the sunniest part in the late spring when the soil warms up, that is, from late April to late May. If you live in an area with a long, cold spring, but you want the blooming of atsidante to come on time, then plant corms in March for distillation. To do this, in a pot with a diameter of 12-15 cm, filled with loose permeable substrate at a depth of 4-5 cm immerse from 3 to 6 bulbs, then keep the pot in a greenhouse or on a bright sill, and at the end of May transplanted to a flowerbed. Podroschenny corms give strong, long and abundantly flowering plants.

How to plant an atsidanter.

In warm climates or in the middle lane, you can plant corms immediately in a flower garden. Previously, a section with a light fertile soil is weakened by a weakly acid reaction, if necessary, sand is introduced for drainage and fertilizer in the form of compost or humus, after which the surface is leveled. Planting material is pickled in a weak solution of potassium permanganate, dried and only then planted. Acidanter bulbs are arranged in groups of 8-30 pieces, submerging them depending on the size by 8-12 cm and keeping a distance between tubers from 1 to 20 cm. After planting, the area is watered.

How to care for atsidantery.

Planting atsidantera and care for her in the open field do not contain any subtleties: you will need to water the flowerbed, loosen the soil on it, remove weeds, and to do it less often, you should mulch the surface with organic material - sawdust, peat, humus or mown grass: this the measure will prevent too rapid evaporation of moisture and the development of weeds. In order to maintain the decorativeness of the acidists, remove faded flowers in a timely manner.

Watering and dressing atsidantery.

Acidanter is watered moderately, but regularly, especially during prolonged heat. The plant suffers from both drought and moisture stagnation, which can lead to root decay. During the flowering period, watering is reduced, but the soil in the area all the time should be slightly wet. Make sure that when moistening the ground drops do not fall on the leaves and flowers, otherwise they may burn. Water for irrigation should be settled and not cold. When water is absorbed, the soil around the plant is loosened, at the same time removing weeds.

As for fertilizers, the acididera responds well to the introduction of mineral complexes.It is enough to feed it with fertilizers two or three times per season: prior to planting, add organic matter to the soil, nitrogen-containing fertilizers during the growth and growth of greenery, and before flowering, when the plant begins to form buds, it will need a potash-phosphorus complex. Application of dressings is usually combined with watering. Fresh organic plant harmful.

Transplant atsidantery. Atsidantera winter.

If in the winter in your area the temperature drops to minus indicators, it will be better to dig up the tubers of plants for the winter, and in the spring to plant them in a flower garden again. When to dig up the atsidanter? As soon as the flowering is completed, the flower stalks are cut off from the plant, but the lower leaves are left on the atsidantera until the frost. With the onset of a steady cooling, the ground part is cut off completely, and the corms are dug out and sent to storage.

Storage acidants.

How to save atsidanteru until spring? The months removed from the corm soil are dried at a temperature of 20 ºC, cleaned from rotted scales, roots, kept in a fungicide solution, dried, and then folded in paper bags or in a cardboard box with perforations for air exchange and stored until spring at 15-16 ºC . When stored at a lower temperature, corms are immersed in dormancy, and if the storage is too warm, the planting material begins to germinate ahead of time.

In March, corms are planted for distillation, and in warm terrain in late April they are planted directly into the ground. How to do this, you already know.

Reproduction of acidants.

Acidanter is propagated by seed and vegetatively - tubers and children. We already described the breeding method of corms. As for the kids, there are a lot of them growing on the tubers. In the spring, before planting corms on a bed, children are separated and grown up in shkolka. With good care, atsidantera of babies blooms in the very first autumn. Adult corm can live up to 5 years.

Seed propagation acidants also simple procedure. Sowing is carried out in the winter in the usual manner, and it is not necessary to subject the sowing material to stratification. The substrate should be nutritious, of approximately the same composition: garden soil, peat and sand in equal proportions. Container with crops contain at a temperature of 20 ºC and provide constant soil moisture, covering the container with film or glass and spraying the surface of the substrate from the spray gun. Ventilate crops daily and remove condensate from the coating. In April-May, at the stage of development of two true leaves, the seedlings swoop in separate pots, best of all peaty, so that when transplanted into the open ground you do not have to injure the roots of seedlings again. Seedlings grow quickly, and by the summer they will already be ready to be in a flower bed. In the autumn, the bulbula is dug up, and in the spring they are planted in the garden again. Flower stalks will appear in the third year.

Pests and Disease Acidanters

Acidanthera is damaged by aphids, onion mites, shield and slugs. For preventive purposes, it is better to treat the plant with mustard powder or liquid ammonia - folk remedies that do not harm animals, people and plants. But if shchitovki and aphid still appeared in the flower garden, immediately treat the acidide and the soil under it with insecticides. Ticks kill acaricidal drugs. Slugs will have to be collected by hand, and to make it easier, lay out fragments of boards or pieces of slate in the area, under which the mollusks must hide from the sun, and you will only need to collect them and destroy them.

Of the diseases, the acidanter is affected by root rot, powdery mildew, rust, and mosaic. It is useless to fight mosaic - it is incurable, and plants with variegated leaves should be destroyed immediately. As for the other listed diseases, they have a fungal nature, so it will be necessary to treat the plants with fungicides, for example, with a one-percent solution of blue vitriol or Bordeaux mixture. We remind you that you can prevent the infection of plants by performing agrotechnical measures, including preventive ones, and providing timely care. Usually the cause of fungal diseases is excessive or improper watering, poor drainage or lack of it, as well as lush growing weeds.

Types and varieties of atsidantery

The most common type of bicoloric acidider in culture was described by us at the beginning of the article. It remains to add that a hybrid of this type is popular among florists. Tubergen atsidantera, which has larger than the main species, flowers. Sometimes there are other types of acididers in culture, that is, gladiolus:

Cultivation and care in the open field

Atsidantera is quite undemanding plant for care. It only needs regular watering, but their amount will depend on weather conditions. Weather conditions also affect irrigation. In no case should not be allowed dry soil, it is also necessary to simultaneously monitor the timely departure of moisture, so that water does not stagnate in the soil, otherwise the plant may die. During the flowering period, watering is slightly reduced.

If the soil does not meet the above requirements, then it must be fertilized by applying complex fertilizers several times during the growth period. Top dressing is carried out in the following cases:

  • During the landing,
  • During the growing season, when the volume of green mass increases,
  • During budding, stimulating the flowering process.

From time to time it is also necessary to loosen the soil, especially after heavy rains, in order for fragrant gladiolus to develop better. In order to eliminate the evaporation of moisture and nutrients from the soil is recommended to mulch the soil. The most common variants of mulch are: humus, freshly cut grass, peat. If you want to acididera pleased you with full bloom, you must remove the flowering inflorescences, which will also allow the bulb of the plant to become stronger.

When the flowering period ends, you need to help the plant go to the resting stage. Atsidanthera differ from other bulbous species in that the plant cannot do this on its own. To do this, cut the aboveground part of the stem, leaving the lower leaves intact. Corms while not digging, they should be stored in the ground, but watering should be stopped.

How to dig up atsidanter?

When you cut off the top of the acidide, the tubers must remain in the soil in order to gain strength, and also make a supply of nutrients. To dig up the tubers is necessary only with the onset of the first frost. As a rule, the first frosts occur in the period from September to the end of November, depending on climatic conditions.

It is necessary to dig the tubers very carefully., while taking a large supply of soil, so as not to damage the bulb of fragrant gladiolus. When you remove the bulb from the ground, you must clean it from the soil and dry it. Tubers are heard at an air temperature of about 20 degrees and with intensive air circulation.

The drying period is quite long, it is about 1 month. If there is such a need, in order to prevent tubers can be treated with fungicides. This will prevent mold and rot. After drying, it is necessary to clean the bulbs from the scales. Next comes the wintering stage for tubers.

Crowned the top of the stem of unreal beauty large flowers

The size of 9-10 cm from the tip of one petal to the opposite. They seem even more due to the luminous color. Collected in a spike inflorescence, in which from about 5-6 flowers, they bloom almost simultaneously. Each bud, consisting of 6 wide open petals, is attached by a long bent tubule. Each petal is the same with its neighboring size and has a pointed shape. The color of some species can be monochromatic, other species - variegated.

Traditional white-colored acid-shooters with a pearl shine appear to be traditional, but the choice is wide enough: pale pink, pale lilac, milky-cream and yellow.

Atsidantera blossom begins quite late: August-September, but continues to do so until the first frost. The fruit is an elongated box with a large number of small seeds.

Versatility of atsidantery

Acidanter Muriel Flowers Photos

The universality of atsidantry as a culture is manifested in the fact that in addition to growing in open ground as a typical garden plant, it can be grown as indoor and greenhouse. More and more fans of atsidantery want to see the flowering of this beautiful cut-off crop in the off-season. And although its forcing is somewhat more complicated than, for example, tulips and other bulbous ones, it is quite possible to ensure that an acidider will bloom in your greenhouse in early spring.

Of course, such versatility does not go unnoticed for growing conditions. Weather conditions are very different from stable greenhouses. It is impossible to guarantee that the summer will not be rainy and cold. Such adverse conditions will not allow the atsidantera to bloom. Dependence on the intensity of lighting and temperature conditions and their stability, imposes a number of specific conditions for the cultivation of a flower in decorative floriculture.

If the "sweet-scented gladiolus" plan to grow as a houseplant

It should be placed on the southern windows, making sure that no direct sunlight falls. If necessary (especially in winter) they produce illumination with fitolamps. In the summer, you can put a plant pot on the balcony. Household acidants are protected from drafts and ensure the minimum temperature of the content in the region of 20 degrees.

Acidanter Muriel in a pot

The second point on which the emphasis is - the choice of soil. It should be slightly acidic, at least neutral. Well make the introduction of peat. Acidanter will appreciate the fertile, high-quality, deeply dug up the soil. The risk of stagnant moisture in the soil is completely eliminated. If necessary, make a good drainage. You can grow "fragrant gladiolus" on the dais.

If the decision is made to grow an acidide at home, you can use garden soil or prepare a loose, breathable substrate consisting of:

  • Turf - 2 parts,
  • Sand - 1 part,
  • Leaf humus - 1 part.

If the atsidantera is planted in boxes, a distance of 12–20 cm is maintained between the specimens; a pot with a diameter of 12–15 cm is suitable for a single planting, not more, since the excess free soil will not be good for it. Recommended scheme: 3-5 bulbs in one garden container.

Actual: It is recommended to change the landing site of “fragrant gladiolus” after 5 years.

Planting and maintenance of acidide in the open field

Atsidantera photo planting and care in the open field

When planting outdoors, soil improves in the fall, well in advance, without leaving this occupation until spring. It is very important to apply organic fertilizers to the soil in a timely manner (for example, compost). It is recommended to mulch the soil, for this purpose they use straw, peat, hay, humus. If necessary, add sand, drainage. In the spring, the soil is dug up along with mineral fertilizer and planted in the month of May. Based on weather conditions: steady warm weather in the middle lane is set at the end of May.

To prepare in advance for the process of planting stands and corm atsidantery. The procedure is carried out a few days before the scheduled date. It includes the following simple steps:

  1. Corms inspect, carefully cleaned from the dry shell.
  2. Etched in potassium permanganate. Treatment in a weakly concentrated solution will serve as a preventive measure against plant diseases and pests.

Planted "fragrant gladiolus" bulbs in the ground to a sufficient depth: 10-12 cm.
Such a deepening will save them in case of unexpected cold snaps. A guide for the distance between the bulbs of acididers is their size: for medium corms, the distance is 15–20 cm, respectively, it is increased for large ones, and reduced for smaller specimens. In order for the atsidantera to feel comfortable and blossom well, the interval with other types of flowers must be at least 20 cm.

Cultivation and care of acidide in open ground

What are the germs of atsidantery

Atsidantera does not require time-consuming care. She needs to ensure regular watering, but their quantity and volume will depend on weather conditions. It is not allowed to overdry the soil, at the same time monitor the timely departure of moisture, avoiding stagnation of water, otherwise the acid-taper may die. Several reduce watering during flowering.

Fertilizing the soil, if it meets the requirements, is sufficient several times during the growth period:

  • During the landing,
  • During the growing season: increasing the volume of green mass,
  • During the budding period to stimulate the flowering process.

Do not neglect the loosening of the soil, especially after heavy rainfall, so that the plant develops better. And to avoid evaporation of moisture and nutrients from the soil will help mulching. Freshly cut grass, peat, humus - the most common options for mulch. For full flowering, you should remove the flowering inflorescences, which additionally helps to strengthen the bulbs.

After completion of the flowering period, it is necessary to help move the atsidantera to the resting stage. The difference of this species from other bulbous is that it cannot do it on its own. To do this, cut the aerial part of the stem of the plant, leaving intact the lower leaves.

The difference in caring for indoor plants is to prepare for the rest period. Corms acidants do not dig, they must be stored in the soil, but watering is stopped.

What does an acidider look like?

Perennial bulbous bulbous plant, until it blooms, almost identical to gladiolus, maybe a little less than the width of narrow-leaf-shaped leaves, reaching 35-40 cm in length.

The stem of atsidantery grows vertically upward, non-deciduous, branches weakly.

Flowers are a real luxury: large, up to 7-9 cm and more in diameter, tubular, fragrant, 2-8 each in a spikey inflorescence, usually white with a clear brown-purple spot in the center, from which thin rays veins gracefully spread to the edges .

In addition to the white color, there are also pale lemon, pinkish or pale purple shades of the rims.

In some species, the tips of the petals are rounded, and their edges are wavy, but the typical plant has pointed tips of the perianth.

The name atsidantery is also associated with this external feature - in Greek, acidos is sharp, anthos is a flower.

The corms of acidants are small in size, around 2.5 cm or less in circumference, occasionally their diameter reaches 4-5 cm, milky white; The fruit is an elongated capsule.

Growing atsidantery in open ground

The plant will not tolerate conditions that are unsuitable for its development.

For example, in a rainy and cool summer, not a single flower spike can be released, because in its homeland it is accustomed to heat and sun.

Therefore, when choosing a place for him in the garden, it is necessary to take into account those natural factors to which the acidider is accustomed to in the natural environment.

Site selection in compliance with the necessary conditions

Sweet-scented gladiolus is planted in a well-lit corner of the garden so that during the day there is almost no shadow on it.

The surface of the beds, on which the plant workers are to land, is preferably flat, without hollows and holes in which water can stagnate.

Care must also be taken to protect against cold gusting winds.

The land is desirable fertile, drained, loose, breathable.

Atsidantera plant does not like alkaline soils, prefers a neutral or slightly acidic soil reaction.

How to prepare the planting material

A few days before the estimated date of planting the bulbs, acididers are taken out of the containers in which they were stored in the winter.

Acidantry bulbs

Carefully inspect them and cleaned of dry scales.

If some spots are found rotting on the surface of some, soft, indented areas, they are rejected.

For planting such bulbs are not suitable. It is unlikely that they will grow healthy strong plant that can please with flowering.

Selected for planting bulbs immersed for 5-10 minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Such a prophylactic procedure is needed in order to prevent fungal and bacterial diseases to acidophilic lesions.

Pickled planting material is dried, and the atsidantera is ready for planting and care in open ground.

Recommendations for landing in the ground

The plot for growing atsidanter is prepared in the fall, fertilizing it with organic matter - rotted compost or fallen leaves.

Prepared onions are planted at a depth of 8-12 cm, corresponding to 2-3 heights.

The distance between them is observed within 15-20 cm, but if the bulbs are small, they are placed closer to each other.

Важно заметить, что даже выращиваемые в комнатной культуре ацидантеры располагают по несколько штук в горшках небольшого диаметра, потому что, произрастая в тесноте, они цветут активнее.

Оптимальные сроки посадки ацидантеры в открытый грунт – последние дни весны, когда уже хорошо прогрета земля.

Следует напомнить, что период вегетации у ацидантеры дольше, чем у гладиолуса, поэтому ее высаживают в грунт северных широт уже подрощенными в комнатных условиях, чтобы растение успело полноценно пройти весь жизненный цикл, отцвести и набраться сил для зимовки.

Important! На одном месте ацидантеры выращивают не больше 5 лет.

In areas with possible late frosts on the soil, the onion growers indoors, planting them no later than March in flower containers filled with soil mixture taken from equal parts of sod, leafy ground and coarse sand. In open ground transplanted in late May.

Basic rules for the care of atsidantery

Growing and caring for an acidide in the open field does not require too much trouble and attention from the grower.

It is important to make weeding the beds in time with the removal of weeds, to properly loosen the soil after the rains, destroying the crust on the soil surface.

Watering plants need in the arid summer heat, usually the acidider enough sedimentary moisture.

But in the case of a long absence of rain, the bed is moderately moistened, preferably early in the morning, so that the soil around the bulbs dries out during the day.

It is desirable to mulch to conserve moisture with dry grass, compost, peat. If it is not produced, loosening the soil will be needed after each rain.

You should try to water in the beds with atsidantera not stagnate, excess moisture is fraught with rotting bulbs.

Feed plants with a complex of mineral fertilizers at least three times per season: during planting, during the period of active growth of the vegetative mass, on the eve of flowering or at the time of budding.

Nutrient solution is added to irrigation water in accordance with the recommendations indicated by the manufacturer on the package.

Digging bulbs and wintering

After flowering, the plant prepares for the resting stage, gradually drying the ground part.

Hurriedly cut it should not be necessary to wait until the leaves are completely dry.

It is important that the bulb in this period be stocked with the necessary substances for wintering outside the ground.

Immediately after the wilting of the inflorescences, only the flower stalks are removed, if there is no need for seeds.

Digging of bulbs produced after the end of the Indian summer, around the end of September, if the warm autumn weather lasts longer, then later.

The main thing is that the difference between day and night temperatures should not be too great.

The bulbs are removed from the ground carefully, trying not to cause mechanical damage, preferably with the remnants of the soil, which is hand-picked.

The entire ground part of the plant is cut, and the bulbs are left to dry.

Dry for a long time, not less than a month, placing in rooms with good air circulation and a temperature of at least 20 degrees.

Then remove the detachable shell, remove the dry roots.

Planting material laid out in paper bags that can protect it from excess moisture, and have, unlike other bulbs, not in the cellar, but in a warm closet, where the temperature is constantly maintained within 15 degrees.

Bulbs of the grown acidic acid are stored in pots with a dry substrate at an ambient temperature of 12 degrees above zero.

In areas with warm winters, corms are left to winter in the open ground, covering them with spruce leaves or fallen leaves.

During thaws, the site is not flooded with melt water, as there is a risk of rotting and death of the bulbs.

Common mistakes florist when growing atsidantery

The most common mistake in the cultivation of bulbs - the choice of a shaded area.

The plant comes from the tropics does not tolerate a lack of lighting, develops inactively, blooms with small flowers.

Improperly regulated watering leads to various diseases - fungal or bacterial.

Hastily cut off after flowering ground part does not contribute to the formation of a strong bulb, ready to endure the wintering.

Often she frowns and by the spring looks exhausted and not ready to give life to a healthy plant.

Types of acidide

In modern botanical literature, atsidantery is often found under the official name common to all former species — gladiolus Muriel, but the diversity of plants is so multifaceted that it is worthwhile to deal with their names more carefully.

Atsidantera two-color

Acidantherabicolor bicoloured (Acidantherabicolor), or bicolor acidanthera - the most common species in culture with the new name Gladiolus Muriel (Gladiolusmuriela).

Spectacular plant up to 120 cm in height with long, sword-shaped leaves of a light emerald shade and huge, up to 12 cm in circumference, white with a red-cherry spot in the middle.

Flowers are collected in a spike inflorescence of 3-8 pieces and bloom late - in August-September.

Other species are less common, but their beauty is not inferior to the typical:

Acridanter cereal

Acidanthera cereal-leaved (Acidantheragraminifolia) - in the current classification Gladiolus floriferous (Gladiolusfloribundus).

Differs in white-purple flowers, almost devoid of a tube, and narrow leaves.

Atsidantera pink and white

Acidanthera pink-white (Acidantheraroseoalba) - now called Geysoriza pink-white (Geissorhizaroseoalba). Known watercolor white flowers with crimson divorces along the petals.

Tubular atsidantera

The tubular acidifier (Acidantheratubulosa) is currently known as the Stemmerless Geissorhiza (Geissorhizaexscapa).

It has incredibly beautiful pink corollas with expressive yellow stamens, looking out of the mouth of a long tube.

Cape Acidanthera

The Cape Acidanthera (Acidantheracapensis) is named after Ixia paniculata (Ixiapaniculata). Recognizable by the delicate white flowers with pink veins.

Sweet-scented gladiolus is an attractive plant for landscape design. It is suitable for decoration of flower beds at the terraces and mixed front garden compositions.

In addition to graceful inflorescences, the pleasant aroma enveloping the garden at the end of summer is also appreciated.

It looks gracefully in partnership with asters, monards, coriopsis, sage, suitable for cutting - retains freshness in bouquets well and is irreplaceable as a festive chord of the pre-autumn flower bed.

Features of atsidantery

The acidide Muriel is a perennial that reaches a height of 1.2 m. Rounded tubers, painted white, reach 30 mm in diameter, they are covered with a dense shell of brown color. At the top of the shoots can be branched or simple. The length of greenish leaf plates about 50 cm, they have a linear or xiphoid shape. Spike inflorescences consist of 3–10 flowers of a white-cream color, which reach 5–12 centimeters in diameter. The flowers have a pleasant sweet smell that is attractive to bees, they have a long tube, as well as 6 pointed petals, which change their color to a dark crimson, dark purple or almost black color closer to the base. Flowering is observed in August-September. The disclosure of flowers takes place alternately from the bottom up, in connection with this, the duration of flowering of each peduncle can reach up to four weeks. The fruit is an elongated box with seeds inside.

What time to plant

Since the tropical plant atsidantera is thermophilic, its planting is carried out in deep spring (from the last days of April to the end of May), after the ground warms up. For planting choose a well-lit area. If it is grown in the region with a long and relatively cold spring, then in order for the atsidanther to blossom in time, its tubers need to be planted in May for distillation. Take a pot that is between 12 and 15 centimeters across; it must be filled with permeable, loose soil mixture. 3-6 onions are planted in it to a depth of 40 to 50 mm. Then the pot is cleaned on a well-lit window sill or in the greenhouse. In the last days of May, the flowers should be planted in open soil. These cultivated tubercles produce powerful shrubs that differ in lush and long flowering.

Landing rules

In mid-latitudes, as well as in regions with a warm climate, acididers disembark directly into open soil. The site with nutrient subacidic soil must first be prepared, for this they dig it up, making fertilizer (humus or compost), as well as sand for drainage, if necessary. Then the surface of the plot needs to be leveled.

Before planting, the corms must be treated with a weak solution of manganese potassium, when they dry out, they should be planted on the site. Onions are planted in groups of 8-30 pieces, they are buried in the soil by 8-10 centimeters (depending on the size of the planting material), while between them should be kept a distance of 1-20 centimeters. Planted bulbs need abundant watering.

Caring for a gardener

It is necessary to care for atsidantery in the garden in the same way as for any other garden flower. It needs timely watering, weeding and loosening the soil surface between the bushes. To significantly reduce the amount of weed and irrigation, the surface of the site should be filled with a layer of mulch, which should be used only organic materials, for example: peat, mowed grass, sawdust or humus. In order for the bushes to look spectacular and tidy all the time, the flowers that began to fade should be cut off in time.

How to water and feed

This crop needs systematic and moderate irrigation, especially when there is hot, dry weather for a long time. It should be remembered that this flower does not tolerate both drought and stagnant fluids in the soil. If the plant is poured, it can lead to the appearance of rot on the root system. During flowering, watering should be reduced, but the soil in the area should always be a little wet. During watering it is necessary to ensure that droplets of liquid do not fall on the flowers and foliage, otherwise burns may form on their surface. Water the flowers need separated water, which should not be cold. After the liquid is fully absorbed into the soil, its surface should be loosened, while pulling out all the weeds.

It is necessary to feed this flower culture with mineral complex fertilizers that are applied to the soil. During the season it should be fed 2 or 3 times. The first time the plants are fed with organic fertilizers, the second time - while actively growing and increasing the green mass, fertilizers containing nitrogen are used for top dressing, and shortly before the budding process, a phosphorus-potassium complex should be added to the soil. Feed the acidants, as a rule, at the same time with watering. Such a plant cannot be fed with fresh organic fertilizers.

Transplanting and wintering

If in the region where this crop is grown, in winter time the air temperature drops to minus indicators, then the onion should be removed from the soil in the fall, and in springtime they should be planted again in open ground.

What time is better to dig up the bulbs? After the plant ottsvetet, its stalks should be removed, but the lower leaf plates should remain on the bush until the first frost. After the cold weather is established outside, the above-ground part of the flower should be cut off, and the bulbous tuber extracted from the soil should be removed for storage.

How to save onions? Dug onions need to be dried thoroughly, for this they are kept for about 4 weeks at a temperature of about 20 degrees. Then they remove the rot damaged flakes, roots, and then soaked in a solution of the fungicide preparation and dried. Prepared planting material for storage must be folded in paper bags or in cardboard boxes with perforations for free access of fresh air. They are stored at a temperature of 15 to 16 degrees before the onset of the spring period. If the room is cooler, the onions will plunge into a state of rest, and if it is warmer, then the bulbous plants begin to germinate much earlier than necessary. Onion plants are planted in March, and if the region has a relatively warm climate, then in the last days of April they are planted directly in open soil.

Diseases and pests

Onion ticks can live onion mites, slugs, aphids and scale insects. In order to prevent the shrubs, it is recommended to spray with ammonia or mustard powder, these folk remedies are absolutely harmless to people, animals and plants. If scabs or aphids settle on the bushes, then they and the ground surface under them should be sprayed with insecticidal preparations. Acaricides are used to kill ticks. If slugs appear, they will need to be assembled manually. Also on the surface of the site it is recommended to decompose pieces of boards and slate, where gastropods love to hide from the scorching sun, they will only need to be assembled and destroyed.

Atsidantera can get powdery mildew, mosaic, root rot and rust. In the bush affected by the mosaic, the leaf plates become variegated. This disease is incurable, and the affected bush must be burned. The remaining of these diseases are fungal, for their treatment using fungicides, for example, a solution of Bordeaux liquids or copper sulfate (1%). In order to prevent the plant from being infected with infectious diseases, it is necessary to properly care for it following all the agrotechnical rules of culture, and not forgetting about preventive measures. The most common causes of fungal diseases: poor drainage or none at all, correct or too abundant watering, and a large number of weeds.

Acidanthera tropical (Acidanthera aequinoctialis)

The height of the bush is about 1.3 m, the leaf plates are multi-ridged. The composition of bilateral inflorescences includes 5 or 6 flowers of white color, which have a long tube and crimson or purple specks. There is an assumption that this species is a taller tropical form of bicolor acididers.

Acidanthera white (Acidanthera candida)

In nature, it is found in tropical regions of Africa. The inflorescences are white and very fragrant. Straight stem is mild.

Also known are species such as: short-tubular, cape, zlakolistnaya, Fourcade, few-flowered, tubular, pink-white and broadlepid acides.

Digging atsidantry

To hurry with digging up bulbs of acidants from the soil is not worth it. After trimming the bulbs should be stocked with nutrients and moisture, mature. And digging from the ground should be carried out only with the arrival of the first autumn frosts, not earlier than at the end of September or using the weather forecast (under favorable conditions and long-lasting flowering can be postponed until December). Atsidantera from the soil carefully dig, with a large supply of soil, which is removed from the planting material by hand. The roots, even the smallest ones, should not be broken off or cut off. After digging up, all the remains of the ground parts of the plant should be cut, the bulbs should be carefully examined and sent to dry.

The drying of the bulbs is carried out at a temperature of about 20 degrees Celsius, with active air circulation. But unlike most plants, for acidants, the time for warm drying lasts not 3-4 days, but a whole month. They complete the drying with the removal of dry roots, final cleaning of acididers.

What does a southern beauty look like?

Atsidantera or spike Muriel was first discovered by travelers in Africa. In native spaces, the plant exceeds 2 m in height. In our beds, its average height is a little over 1 m. On a powerful dark green stem there is a pair of narrow, sharp leaves that are similar to gladiolus leaves. These plants are very similar, but there are significant differences. For example, atsidantera: has a delicate, strong aroma, has a more thinned inflorescence, forms about 6-7 flowers, dissolves in smaller colors. Spike inflorescence forms up to 10 buds that do not open immediately. After drying the lower pair, the next two are blooming. Flowers are beautiful unusually: white or with a hint of butter cream, purple or pink ... Each petal has its own unique pattern of droplets or commas.

Experts counted some plant species more than thirty, and gardeners bred ten varieties of each species. Tip: a beginner should not immediately engage in the cultivation of a rare variety. As a rule, such plants require special conditions for growth, they are expensive. Before the acquisition you can find useful information on the Internet. In the homeland of atsidantera grows as a perennial. We have such planting is possible in the southernmost regions, where the soil does not freeze through. But even there it is necessary to cover the beds with peat or dry branches. In other areas, the tubers of the flower, along with the children, are dug out in early autumn and stored in a cool place.

Preparing for the winter

After the flowers completely fade, the long peduncle should be cut off, leaving the lower rosette of leaves, the presence of which is necessary to complete the process of photosynthesis and accumulate nutrients in the corms of atsidants. With the onset of frost bulbs dig for storage. Only large specimens can successfully winterize in the ground - under a cover of spruce branches or dry foliage, but the danger of freezing during the spring thaws for them is preserved. Мелкую и среднюю детку очищают от корней и оставляют на 3—4 недели в сухом, вентилируемом помещении при температуре около +18° C для просушки. Хранят клубнелуковицы уложенными в пакеты из оберточной бумаги или тканевые мешочки из дышащих материалов (хлопок, лён). Оптимальные температурные показатели для сохранения качеств посадочного материала – от +10° C до +15° C. Воздействие излишне низких температур может стать причиной отсутствия цветения при будущей посадке или развития гнили на поверхности луковицы, а слишком высокие приведут к высыханию.With proper care, the viability of corms acididers lasts for more than 5 years

Thanks to competent care, the gentle blooming of beautiful atsidantery will be abundant and long-lasting, causing constant admiration of others.

Pest and disease control

The pests that threaten an acidaler in the garden are snails, slugs, aphids. If you skip the initial stage of the appearance of pests, then the green mass of the plant will suffer. The best option is to carry out prophylaxis with safe, widespread drugs (ammonia, mustard powder). When the first pests are noticed, chemicals are used (insecticide Fufanon or others), and damaged leaves are removed.

Of the diseases of serious danger, as for all bulbous, is rot. Affected leaves are characterized by the presence of rusty, dark spots. The timely processing of the bulbs with fungicides will help - it will prevent the disease (for example, Fitosporin-M). But it is best to use 1% Bordeaux liquid, which can be effective even in the later stages of the disease. It should be remembered that the observance of irrigation conditions, soil moisture when growing this beautiful plant is the best prevention against rot.

The use of atsidantry in ornamental gardening:

  • as a ceremonial, festive, finishing accent in the design of flower beds,
  • groups on the background of the lawn, in seasonal flower beds, islands,
  • in mixed compositions in the front garden,
  • as a fragrant accent in the design of flower beds and rabatok at recreation areas and terraces,
  • in the role of a pot or container plant,
  • as a cut crop (it should be borne in mind that the strong aroma of the plant is far from being for everyone)

The best partners for atsidantery: asters, sage, aconites, Emilia, Monarda, Gladiolus, Coreopsis.

How to dig up atsidanteru

How to dig up atsidantera

After cutting the top of the plant, the bulbs must continue to be in the ground in order to gain strength, make a supply of nutrients. Only with the onset of the first frost produce digging. Depending on climatic conditions, this period may come in September and at the end of November.

Digging "fragrant gladiolus" should be very careful, with a large supply of land, so as not to damage the plant bulb. Already after extraction is done, clean the onion from the ground and dry. The following conditions are necessary for drying: a temperature of about 20 degrees and a rather intensive air circulation.

The drying period is long enough - is 1 month. If necessary, for prevention, the corm can be treated with fungicides - anti-mildew and rot preparations. The drying process is completed by final cleaning of the bulbs from the scales, and for them the wintering stage begins.

Corms acidants can spend the winter, being directly in the ground. It is only necessary to carry out the mulching of the soil. Suitable materials - peat, needles, foliage. You can additionally cover spruce branches, cardboard. Then she will not be cold. But there is no guarantee that there will be the necessary stability of temperatures and dryness of the soil.

Sometimes even a small thaw in the middle of winter can destroy an acidanter, because with an unplanned temperature increase, the soil moisture increases. The bulbs, soaked with a small amount of moisture, will freeze and die with further cooling. To avoid such a risk and produce wintering.

Dried processed corm acididers are laid out in paper bags. It is paper as a packaging material that can provide stable conditions, protecting the future planting material from adverse factors: humidity, exposure to light. Alternatively, a sandbox can be used for wintering. Store the bulbs in a warm enough room - about 15 degrees, a fairly dry and well-ventilated place. For indoor plants, a slightly lower temperature is preferable - 12 degrees.

Popular species and varieties of acidants

Atsidantera two-tone landing and care photos

There are about 40 wonderful species in the kind of acidanter. Relatively recently (in 2010), modern botany began to classify it as a group of gladioli, but flower growers and all those involved in decorative flower cultivation use the usual name. Also in any gardening literature, on seed material, you will find the original name. Atsidantera two-color (lat. Acidanthera bicolor) - the basic variety that has received the most common. Officially, this flower is called gladiolus Muriel (lat. Gladiolus muriela).

This amazingly beautiful plant is able to reach a height of 120 cm, while quite numerous leaves also grow to 50 cm and above. They have a nice light green color and a sword-linear shape. Due to such foliage, the two-colored acididera looks great with mixed plantings, which is appreciated in decorative floriculture.

On one bush of gladiolus Muriel there are up to 10 rather large flowers (each of which is up to 10-11 cm in diameter) enclosed in characteristic spike-like inflorescences. The six white or cream petals have a pointed triangular shape. Amazing color allows them to look extremely elegant, very elegant, as if hovering over a green mass.

At about the end of the summer or a little later, you can see how these snow-white buds bloom outside, showing beautiful stamens from a large dark crimson, dark purple center, having a striking contrast with the main color. This midpoint even looks like an asterisk. In addition, the flowers of two-color atsidantery have a pleasant smell, attractive to many.

It should be borne in mind that the acididera is positioned as a species of gladioli, which are the only of the entire species that can winter in the climate zone characteristic of central Russia. But in fact, care of the flower does not provide for this: it needs digging for the winter and certain conditions for the storage of corms.

There are several other types of acididers common in ornamental gardening, each of which has its own unique features.

Acidanthera tropical (Latin Acidanthera aequinoctialis)

Acidanthera tropical Acidanthera aequinoctialis

The alternative name is Tropical Gladiolus (Latin Gladiolusaequinoctialis). A rather high representative - grows up to 130 cm. It is distinguished by ribbed leaves of a dark green color. Inflorescences consist of 5-6 buds and have a bilateral form. The flowers themselves are white in color with characteristic crimson-purple spots.

Acridanter flaccidaceous (lat. Acidanthera graminifolia)

Acidanthera graminifolia photo

The second name according to modern classifications is the blooming gladiolus (lat. Gladiolus floribundus). The distinctive advantage of this form is the foliage - it is narrow and thin, similar to cereal crops, which allowed it to be given such a name - “low-leaved”. A special tenderness of this type of acidide is presented by thin drooping flower stalks. An almost inconspicuous tube allows these watercolor white-purple flowers to look so original.

Acidanthera few-flowered (lat. Acidanthera pauciflora)

Acidanthera few-flowered Acidanthera pauciflora photo

Has another name - blooming blooming gladiolus (lat. Gladiolus floribundus). There are practically no differences in leaves from acid-leafers, they are also atypical, but the flowers differ in color - this is a red color.

Acidanthera white (lat. Acidanthera Candida)

Acidanthera Candida white acid photo

In the most modern classification - white gladiolus (lat. Gladiolus candidus). It has a straight stalk, on top of which snow-white flowers are held on a long thin tube. Petals have no additional pattern, which makes them ideally beautiful. In addition, this type of acidants has a strong flavor.

Acidantera Fourcade (lat. Acidanthera fourcadei)

Acidanthera Fourcade Acidanthera fourcadei photo

A modern alternative name is Geissorhizafourcadei. It has an uncommon pale pink, slightly purple, color of the petals. Such a color color is quite rare and for this is very much appreciated in the decorative floriculture. But this kind of atsidantery can not boast the number of flowers - there are only one or two of them.

Atsidantera in landscape design

Atsidantera in landscape design

Atsidantera its refined appearance can change the look of any place in the garden beyond recognition. Depending on personal preferences, it can be planted in different ways:

  1. In the mixed planting, the atsidantera comes to the forefront against the background of other, less catchy plants. It can be the final chord in the design of a flower garden.
  2. Group landing elegant look on the background of the lawn.
  3. Mixed landing - rockeries, alpine slides.
  4. Decorate and give the exciting aroma of flower beds and rabatkam. Location - in recreation areas, verandas.
  5. Due to its growth, the atsidantera is applicable for the design of fences, small fences.
  6. Enhance the captivating appearance of artificial reservoirs.
  7. It can be grown as a pot plant, looks beautiful in garden containers, outdoor vases.

How does the atsidanthera in group plantings

In order to avoid the competition of acididers with other inhabitants of the flower garden during mixed plantings, one should use low-growing accompanying plants: begonia, lily of the valley, alissum are optimal. Among sredneroslyh selected types: host, brunner, geyhera. A good combination is demonstrated by this worthy representative of a kind in partnership with aconite, sage, aster.

Atsidantera shows not only external beauty, but also a wonderful delicate aroma, for which it received the second name “fragrant gladiolus”. Intense aroma does not seem heavy and intrusive, honey and fruit notes create a refined and noble fragrance. Therefore, the acidantera is known as a shearing culture, but it should be borne in mind that not all varieties have such a strong aroma.

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