Potted flowers and plants

Venus flytrap: home care


Venus flytrap or dionea is considered one of the most exotic plants that can be grown at home. First, this plant is carnivorous. Secondly, despite its small size, the flycatcher looks very original and aggressive.

Caring for her is simple, but, as they say, not without frills: picky and capricious. She will like those flower growers who love to watch the plant. In this case, the original process of obtaining food and its absorption.

Some novice flower growers confuse Dione with Nepentes, sometimes with Rosyanka. Both of these plants are also carnivorous, but this is where their similarity ends. Externally and care they are very different.

Location and lighting

Dionea dislikes shadow and needs bright sunshine. Compliance with this condition is one of the most important in its cultivation. Some sources of information on the care of this plant stipulate that its favorable development requires at least 4 hours a day of bright light. This is true. However, it is worth considering one nuance: the roots of this exotic plant do not tolerate the warmth of the soil. If your beauty “lives” in a dark pot, there is a risk of it heating under the rays of the sun. From the surface of the pot heats the soil, which does not like its roots.

To avoid this, either put Dionee in a light pot, or follow the heating of her “home”. There is also a third option - place it on the east or west windows. Do not put the pot with Dione on the north window, it will be dark there.

Another feature: the flycatcher does not tolerate stagnant, stale air. If this condition is not observed, it literally withers. Therefore, the room where she "lives" should be regularly aired. In the warm season, the plant can be safely moved to the balcony or to the garden, to the open space. This is also relevant from the point of view of its “feed”.

It remains to add that the Venus flytrap does not like "relocations", permutations and movements. For her, this is stress. Therefore, in advance, select a place for the summer dislocation of the plant, put the pot and do not touch it anymore.

If your plant is solely at home, indulge in a highlight. It will be sufficient to use a pair of the most common fluorescent lamps with a power of 40 W, placing them no closer than 20 cm from the plant.

Watering mode

No matter how exotic Dyonya is, she still remains a plant and needs watering. True, there is not without features. The fact is that the flycatcher is picky not only in relation to the composition of the air, but also extremely sensitive to the composition of the water.

Impurities that are inevitably present in tap water, even distilled water, are completely safe for other plants and are destructive to it. You should not risk and use rainwater: in our time, ecologically unfavorable time, it is not always clean.

For watering Dionei suitable only filtered or boiled water in advance!

But the rest - everything, as for all indoor plants:

  • The frequency of irrigation is determined by the state of the topsoil.
  • It is important to avoid both over-drying and over-drying.
  • It is possible to water both from above, and from below, using the pallet.

Feeding the flycatcher

In no case use fertilizer or fertilizer. This is ruled out, fertilizer for Dionei is poison!

Nutrients necessary for vital activity, like a true plant, the flycatcher synthesizes independently. The exception is the nitrogen-containing "dessert", but it also produces it on its own: it catches and eats. The process of feeding the flycatcher is very funny.

She eats organic food only when she is hungry (lacking nitrogen). The rest of the time, flies and mosquitoes do not care about her. Moreover, if you try to provoke a plant for lunch in the absence of appetite, it can simply ignore your attempts at feeding it, because it is full.

Do not tease this plant for fun! It is very energy-intensive for her process of "catching" and "swallowing" food: the slamming of a mouth-trap. Moreover, each trap (mouth) has a three-time use, and then dies. Given this fact, it is worth remembering which mouth you fed the plant and use another next time. It is not necessary to feed in turn in all traps, it is quite enough in one or two.

Do not experiment and do not feed the plant from your table. Dionea responds only to live food. Nature endowed her with a special device - especially sensitive hairs or triggers. They react to perturbation and "give" the command to slam traps and secretions of digestive juices, so the plant does not react to ingress of nonliving organics.

Remove the parts of the food not eaten by the flytrap, otherwise rotting will start, which can lead to the death of the plant.

For the green "predator", the size of the food also matters. Too big "piece" she just will not master. Remains will begin to decompose and rot, which is risky for her life.

Venus flytrap eats quite rarely - about 1 time in one and a half, or even in two months. The process of food intake is characterized by duration and gradualism: lunch lasts up to 10 days. It is important to remember that "overeating", or rather, an excess of nitrogen, for this plant is destructive. The overburdened Dionea becomes ill, becoming weak and lethargic.

The Venus flytrap does not feed in winter. At this time of year she rests, including from hunting and digestion.

The plant refuses to eat and in any stressful situation: during transplantation, illness, lack of light and just a sudden change of environment. By the way, its buying and settling with such stress is, therefore, do not try to feed Venus a flytrap as soon as it was brought home from the store.

It remains to add that the flycatcher, located on the street, is able to “feed” itself. The fact that the plant has eaten, indicate closed mouthpieces. But you will have to take care of the home specimens of this plant by yourself, not forgetting the feeding features.

Wintering and rest period

In the fall, Dionea prepares for rest: its leaves begin to dry out and turn black, then fall. The plant itself shrivels, acquiring an unpresentable, unhealthy appearance. Inexperienced flower growers can panic and try to reanimate the plant, watering vigorously and placing it in the most bright and warm place.

There are no reasons for excitement, the flycatcher is resting in such an unsightly form. She does not need light and heat at all, rather the contrary. Put the plant pot in a cool, but not necessarily dark place. It may be just a window sill, where the temperature is below room temperature, or the bottom shelf of a refrigerator. If you have a cellar, it will also work.

Dionea should "sleep off", for her it is not a whim, but a necessity. Leave it alone until mid-February, occasionally checking the condition of the soil: it should be slightly damp. In late February, the Venus flytrap wakes up: slowly and lazily. And only by the end of spring, with the arrival of summer, it begins to grow actively.

Indications for transplanting Venus flytrap virtually no: its soil is not depleted, and salting when watering with boiled water is unlikely.

But if you still decide to do this, consider the following rules for the fit:

  • Pot: choosing a "home", remember that the flycatcher has long (up to 20 cm) growing deep into the roots. In addition, its roots are delicate and fragile - this also needs to be taken into account during transplantation. About the color of the pot, we have already spoken.
  • Soil: peat or its mixture with sand or perlite. There are no other options for this plant.
  • After planting, place the plant pot for 3-4 days in the shade and provide it with regular watering.

Reproduction of Venus Flytrap

Dione can be propagated vegetatively: with children and peduncle.

The process of reproduction by children is quite simple and is used much more often, but in this process Dione also has its own nuances: this type of reproduction can be used once every 3 years. The plant prefers to grow "family", next to the children and noticeably weakens with their frequent separation. Given this fact, it is convenient to combine the procedure for separating kids with transplant.

We separate the baby carefully, trying to minimally injure the fragile roots of the flycatcher. It will be better if you make it with a sharp knife. After separating the babies from the mother bulb, be sure to disinfect the cut points using crushed activated charcoal or fungicide.

No less exotic than the plant itself reproduction using seeds. This is a rather complicated and peculiar process, the effectiveness of which depends on the experience and patience of the grower. Simply put, this breeding method is only suitable for professionals.

Propagation using seeds is carried out in the spring, during the flowering of Dionei. The flycatcher blooms also very original: throws a long (especially in comparison with the size of the plant itself) peduncle. He can "fly out" up to half a meter in height.

Of course, such a “product” requires a lot of energy from a plant, and therefore not every instance can master it, especially if you have a young plant. Such a bloom is fraught with pain and loss of power for the flycatcher. For weak and young flycatchers, flowering often ends very sadly. If you doubt the power of your flower or have already purchased a flycatcher with a peduncle, then do not risk the life of the plant - immediately cut off the peduncle.


If your plan includes plant reproduction with a flower spike, then it is better to do this when it grows up to a length of 4-5 cm. After that, the peduncle is cut and shallow, just 1 centimeter is enough, and it is dug into peat. The rooted peduncle is covered with a cap, creating greenhouse conditions for it.

It now remains to wait for the appearance of young shoots. This will not happen quickly. Carefully air the rooted peduncle throughout the entire waiting period and keep the soil moist.

Peduncle may eventually dry out, have a lifeless appearance, but this does not mean that the process failed. Patiently waiting for the allotted time - one and a half, two months. If everything is good, a new growth will appear, which means that you will have new exotic tenants.


  • 1. Listen to the article (soon)
  • 2. Description
  • 3. Care
    • 3.1. How to grow
    • 3.2. Watering
    • 3.3. Fertilizer
    • 3.4. What to feed
    • 3.5. Transfer
  • 4. Flowering
    • 4.1. Care during flowering
    • 4.2. Wintering
  • 5. Reproduction
    • 5.1. Growing from seed
    • 5.2. Reproduction leaf cuttings
    • 5.3. Dividing bush
  • 6. Diseases and pests
    • 6.1. Pests
    • 6.2. Diseases
  • 7. Types and varieties

Planting and caring for Venus flytrap (in short)

  • Bloom: a few weeks in May or June.
  • Lighting: bright sunshine for 4-5 hours daily, the rest of the time bright ambient light - suitable for western and eastern window sills. When grown in a florarium or terrarium, additional artificial lighting will be required.
  • Temperature: in the warm season - 20-30 ˚C, in winter the temperature can drop to 7 ˚C.
  • Watering: It is best to keep the plant on a pan with distilled or rain water into which the drainage holes of the pot will be immersed: the flower itself will fill its need for moisture.
  • Air humidity: very high. It is recommended to keep the plant in a terrarium or florarium.
  • Top dressing: not required, since the fly-catcher Venus feeds on insects: during the growing season, the plant needs to feed 2-3 small live flies, and each time the insects need to be put in different traps.
  • Rest period: since autumn they reduce watering and do not leave water in the pan, the plant is kept until spring at a temperature of 7-10 C without food and lighting, only occasionally moistening the substrate. In early March, the flower is returned to its usual place, pruned last year’s traps, and gradually restore the watering and feeding regime.
  • Transfer: on average every 2-3 years, in spring, at the beginning of active growth.
  • Breeding: by dividing the bush, leaf cuttings, and with successful manual pollination - by seeds.
  • Pests: aphid, spider mites.
  • Diseases: black mushroom.

How to grow Venus flytrap.

Venus flytrap can grow both in the garden and on the windowsill, and although the process of its cultivation has a high degree of complexity, still caring for her is not as complicated as with some other exotic flowers. How to care for Venus flytrap at home? First of all, it is necessary to create optimal conditions for its growth and development.

The best place for a Venus flytrap in the apartment is window sills oriented to the east or west. The plant needs daily sunbathing for 4-5 hours in the morning and / or evening. If there is not enough light, arrange an artificial light for it. Venus flytrap houses are often grown in terrariums and florariums, because it is in such conditions that the plant can reach high levels of air humidity, but in these cases artificial lighting becomes a necessity: a lamp with a power of at least 40 W is placed above the flower at a height of 20 cm and is turned on every day 14-16 hours.

The plant does not tolerate stagnant air and needs regular ventilation, but it is impossible to prevent drafts in the room, and the plant should be protected from the midday sun. In summer, the Venus flytrap feels good on the balcony. No need to rotate the pot around the axis, achieving uniform lighting, as you do with other flowers, because the plant does not like any movement.

Comfortable most of all, the Venus flytrap feels in summer at 20-30 ºC, and in winter the temperature can drop to 7 ºC.

Watering Venus Flytrap.

The roots of Venus flytraps are not able to process mineral salts from the soil, so they irrigate the plant with soft rainwater, but it is undesirable to accumulate it in metal containers, it is better to use plastic buckets for this. Instead of rain, you can water the plant distilled. The substrate in the pot of Venus flytrap must be constantly wet, since lack of moisture kills the traps. To moisten the soil, a pot with a flower is placed on a tray with such amount of water that drainage holes in the bottom of the pot are immersed in it - the flower will fill its need for moisture.

general description

The flycatcher flower is perennial herb and insectivorous plantwhich belongs to Rosyankov family. Dione reaches a height of 15 cm, not more. The flower has a bulbous stalk, inflorescences of white color, which are collected on a long peduncle. Since the flytrap grows on soils with a low nitrogen content in the natural habitat of the Venus, the source of this element for the flower is various mollusks and insects, in particular, slugs.

On the Venus flytrap, as a rule, there are 4-7 leaves that grow from an underground short stem, thus forming an outlet. Dionei's traps form after flowering. The length of one trap can reach from 8 to 15 cm. Traps on a predatory plant are green, but with good lighting you can see their internal cavities of a red shade. These traps are formed at the ends of short petioles, which are assembled into sockets. The closer to summer time, the longer these stalks become, which gradually assume a vertical position.

Traps in Venus flytraps consist of two valves with sparse setae at the edges, which can slam. Inside the trap itself are glands that produce a special nectar that attracts the victim. Together with the bristles at the edges of the trap there are 3 flip-flops, which in time irritation by insects are closed, the plant at the same time produces a digestive secret.

Digestion of food in Venus flytrap usually lasts from 5 to 10 days. After this time, the predatory plant opens its trap. The trap dies after it digests two or three victims, although there are cases when one trap served as a grave for as many as 7 insects.

Main types

There are many varieties of Venus flytraps, among which the following are the most common:

  • Danteyn Trap. The diameter of plants of this variety reaches 12 cm. On one flower is formed from 5 to 12 traps. The color of the plant is green, there is a red stripe on the outside of the trap, the internal cavity of the traps is red. The leaves and traps of the plant are located almost vertically.
  • Jint. This variety has rosettes of green leaves, which quickly form traps, the size of which reaches more than 5 cm. In good light, the traps acquire a bright purple hue.
  • Akai Riu. This variety is characterized by traps and leaves of a dark red shade, which is preserved even in bright light. Outside the traps there is a green bar.
  • Regula. This variety has green leaves and alternating traps of red and purple.
  • Bohemian Garnet. The plants of this variety have green traps, whose diameter reaches 12 cm. As a rule, there are from 5 to 12 traps per plant. The wide leaves of the plant are able to cover all the soil in the pot, the traps are also located horizontally.
  • Fannel trap. This plant variety is green only at a young age, over time its traps acquire a red hue, although the petioles remain still green. On the same plant, as a rule, there are two different types of traps.
  • Crocedyle. Young plants are green in color with pink trap cavities that redden over time. The leaves of this variety are arranged in a horizontal position.
  • Triton. This variety of Venus flytrap is green and has an unusual form of trap. The traps are stretched and cut only on one side, and their teeth sometimes stick together.
  • Dracula. This Venus flytrap is green with a red internal cavity of traps. The teeth on the edges of the traps are short; there is a strip of red at the base of the trap on the outside.

General information

In the wild, the flower grows in marshland on the peatlands of North Carolina and New Jersey. This plant is endangered in America; therefore, environmental organizations monitor it.

Venus flytrap was discovered in 1760. At the same time, botanists called her Dionee in honor of the Greek goddess Venus, who was the mother of Aphrodite. As a room culture, the plant is very popular and is grown around the globe.

Monotype genus Dionea

Venus flytrap is the only representative of its kind. However, botanists still distinguish several varieties of culture, having minor differences among themselves.

Dionea is a predatory herbaceous perennial belonging to the Rosyanka family. Plant height is up to 15 centimeters. The stem of the bulbous culture, inflorescences white, corymbose, located on a long peduncle.

Since the flower grows in swampy soil with a low nitrogen content, it is an essential element for growth and development, it receives from insects and slugs that it catches with its traps.

Leaf culture plates grow from a short stem, forming a rosette. Usually in one bush the flycatcher has from 4 to 7 bright green leaves. Flower traps appear after flowering. Their length ranges from 8 to 15 centimeters. They have a green tint on the outside and red on the inside. They grow on short petioles collected in rosettes. The stalks begin to lengthen over time and assume a vertical position.

Traps are two slam shut with teeth along the edges. Inside there are glands that produce a sweet substance that attracts insects. In addition to the glands, three small outgrowths are placed in the traps, which are triggered upon closure, as soon as the dione grab a fly or a slug.

After the insect is trapped, the culture begins to secrete digestive juice, with which digestion of prey takes place lasting from 5 to 10 days, after which the trap opens again. Leaf traps die off after they catch and digest from two to three insects, but it also happens that they continue to live until their catch reaches seven victims.

Soil for Venus Flytrap

Soil for Venus flytrap should be dinner. If it is planted in nutrient soil, then its root system will not be able to assimilate from the ground mixtures of mineral salts and the culture will perish.

High peat mixed with quartz sand in equal parts will become the best substrate for the flower. Quartz sand can be replaced with perlite, previously well soaked in distilled water.

Choosing peat should be borne in mind that in nature the plant grows in soils with acidity from 3.5 to 4.5 pH.

Venus Flytrap Pot

Venus flytrap should be planted in a light pot, but many growers grow it in aquariums or terrariums. In such conditions, the plant will be protected from drafts, but at the same time fresh air will be good to her. If the planting of the culture is carried out in an ordinary pot, then its diameter should not be more than 12 centimeters, and the depth should not exceed 20 centimeters.

Coloring capacity is also important. If a dark pot is chosen, the roots will begin to overheat in the sun, which will eventually lead to the death of the plant. The surface of the substrate to protect the roots from the sun and the earth will dry mixture should be covered with moist sphagnum.

In the pot must be drainage holes and pan. Drainage during landing Dionei not needed. There should always be a small amount of fresh water in the pan to maintain optimum soil moisture.

Venus Flytrap Transplant

When buying a plant in a store, it should be immediately transplanted into the pre-prepared soil mixture. To do this, remove the flower from the pot, clean the root system of the soil and rinse it in warm boiled water.

In the prepared pot you need to lay out a layer of soil, then place a plant on it, gently straightening the root system and sprinkling it along with the stem with the remaining earth. Press the mixture to the ground is not necessary. After transplantation, the plant should be watered and transferred to a warm place with a slight shading.

Adaptation in a new pot and soil will last about a month. At this time, the culture should be carefully cared for.

Dioneu need not be transplanted annually. The soil of the plant is not depleted and not salted, therefore, transplants should be carried out once in 3-5 years or only in case of roots rotting due to over-wetting of the substrate.

How and what to feed Venus flytrap at home?

Fertilizers are not needed by the plant, since its root system does not take nutrients from the soil, but synthesizes them independently from insects caught with the help of trap leaves. Most often, the flycatcher eats bees, slugs, flies and spiders. Of these, the culture receives nitrogen, which it needs for growth and development.

In the summer, you can provide such food to her without problems, but in the beginning of spring you will need to buy insects for feeding in a pet shop and only be alive. Meat and dead insects should not be given to the flycatcher!

Feed green darling should be twice a month. It is not necessary to give the plant insects with hard shell and large bugs, as they will damage the trap. Sick Dione cannot be fed until full recovery. Recently transplanted culture is also not recommended to feed. This should not be done in the rest period.

Venus flytrap feeding factors

Care must be taken that the insects are small and completely enclosed in a trap. If part of the fly or beetle remains outside, the trap will not close completely. It will not be able to digest prey, causing it to turn black and fall off. The ideal option would be small flies, in size occupying 1/3 of the traps.

It is also necessary to take into account the fact that Dionea reacts to insects only when it lacks nitrogen, at other times they are simply uninteresting to it.

And another important factor associated with feeding the plant. Do not touch the leaf-traps again. Since touching them can lead to idle slamming, which as a result will cause rapid blackening and dying traps, as well as when large insects enter them.

One meal should be made on one - two traps, no more. After feeding, they should be remembered and not fed for two months, choosing several others for this purpose.

Due to overeating, the plant can get sick and die, so this process should be controlled by home culture. And if she catches insects in the fresh air, then no control over food is needed.

Cropping Venus Flytrap

The plant does not need pruning, but in order to maintain the ornamentation, dried leaf plates, traps and flower stalks should be removed. The only time this procedure may be required is the process of obtaining seeds.

If the florist is not interested in seed that ripens by the fall, he needs to cut the flower with inflorescences before they bloom. This is done in order not to deplete the flower with long flowering and allow it to form healthy traps.

How to get the Venus flytrap seeds?

In order to obtain seed material, during the flowering of the plant, it is necessary to carry out the pollination of flowers by hand with a cotton swab or to bring the crop to the open air and allow it to be done by insects.

If the process is successful, then in a month, miniature seed boxes will begin to form, which can later be used to produce new plants.

Growing Venus Flytrap Seed

The most troublesome way of breeding a plant is considered seed. Since the seed material quickly loses its germination, it should be sown three months after pollination of inflorescences.

The seeding is carried out in a warm earth mixture consisting of sphagnum (70%) and quartz sand (30%), which can be replaced with perlite. If the seeds are purchased in a store, then before planting, it is necessary to stratify in the refrigerator for 1.5 months, after wrapping them in wet moss and packing them in a bag.

Finished seeds should be scattered on the surface of the soil without embedding and spray them with a spray bottle of distilled water. Then you need to move the container in a warm and bright place, covering it with plastic. All this time, the greenhouse should be aired and monitor the soil moisture.

After three weeks, shoots will appear, and when they germinate, they dive in small tanks until full growth. A young plant is transplanted to a permanent growth site in three to four years.

Reproduction of Venus flytrap by dividing the bush

The easiest and most reliable method of reproduction is cluster division, which is carried out during transplantation. For this purpose, the plant is removed from the pot, the ground is shaken from the roots, and the daughter rosettes are carefully separated from the parent plant, transplanting them in separate containers.

Young cultures are kept in the penumbra until they adapt to a new substrate.

Diseases and pests

Although this culture is a predator and feeds on insects, it sometimes suffers from them. Most often, the plant infects aphids or spider mites, which feed on the juice of traps, stems and leaves, leading to wilt and death. It is possible to get rid of these pests by treating the plant with Actellic according to the instructions on the package.

Diseases that threaten the plant develop on the background of improper care, or rather, the overmoistening of the soil. If the soil is excessively wet for a long time, a black fungus or gray mold will begin to appear on the crop.

Get rid of these ailments of fungal etiology will help the drug "Fitosporin." However, before proceeding with the treatment, it is necessary to remove the affected parts of the culture and remove the top layer of earth, which also probably infected the fungus.

Bactericidal diseases that develop in the event of "improper" digestion of insects are the most dangerous for Venus flytraps. This situation occurs when the flycatcher catches too large a fly and it does not fit in the trap. As a result, the insect trap begins to rot, blacken and infect the entire plant. In order to avoid infection and to restore dyonya to health, it is necessary to remove the affected area and treat it with Aktellik.


This exotic predator attracts flower growers not only with its decorative effect, but also with an interesting way of life, or rather, insect hunting.

There are subtleties in caring for him, but if they are taken into account and observed, you can grow a beautiful and healthy flower that will delight you with its unusualness for many years.

Description and interesting features

Dionea is a perennial herb predator. It belongs to the Rosyank family, only one species is included in the genus. The size is small - no more than 15 cm for an adult plant. The stem is bulbous. During flowering, it releases a high peduncle topped with a white-flowered scutellium inflorescence.

In its natural habitat it grows on nitrogen-poor soil. Necessary substances are obtained by catching and processing insects. Stem short, underground. The rosette is formed from several leaves - from four to seven. The traps are up to 15 cm tall, reddish inside, bivalves, with occasional bristles on the outer edge.

The inner surface of the trap is equipped with glands that produce a kind of nectar to attract prey. For the closure of the trap, special sensitive hairs that react to insect movement are responsible. After the sash closure, digestive enzyme production begins. Digesting food can take up to ten days, then the trap opens. After digesting the third insect trap dies off.

Venus Flytrap Care: What a Florist Should Know

Caring for Dionee at home is completely different from growing other indoor flowers. This is a special plant, and it needs constant care.

  • Lighting You need a bright light and the sun, at least four hours a day. Keep dyone in the shade is not recommended. It is desirable to plant it in a light-colored container: in dark pots, the roots overheat and the plant dies. It is better to choose the south window, east and west is also allowed. The room must be regularly ventilated - Dione does not make air stagnation. In the summer you can rearrange to the balcony - on the street “predator” grows better, it finds food for itself. With the reduction of daylight arrange additional lighting fluorescent lamps.
  • Temperature . The optimum temperature for growing Dionei is 22–27 ° C. Maintains also higher drops, up to 35 ° С. Prefers fresh air, but is afraid of drafts.
  • Humidity Does not need spraying, feels good in the range of humidity from 40 to 70%.
  • Watering Water the Venus flytrap right. Particular attention should be paid to the composition of water. For dionei any impurities are harmful. Water is boiled and filtered. The best option is distilled water. The frequency of irrigation is determined by the moisture level of the top layer of the soil. When it dries, the plant is watered gently, but not very copiously. Preference is given to the lower irrigation through the pan.
  • The soil . For Dionei, soil is prepared on the basis of high-moor peat, mixing it with the same amount of perlite or sand. Preference is given to perlite - due to its hygroscopicity, it prevents the occurrence of rot. Perlite before using for a week soaked in distilled water, the sand is boiled in advance.
  • Transplant Transplant a Venus flytrap in another pot is easy. The transshipment is done no more than once every three years if the root system has grown too large. There is no need for frequent transplantation. The soil with the correct composition of the water is not salted, the need for organic substances and trace elements in dionei is absent.

What to feed Venus flytrap.

You can not feed Venus flytrap with earthworms, beetles in a solid chitinous shell and gnawing insects that can damage the trap. Do not feed her meat or sausage - from this food traps begin to rot. During the vegetation period, it is enough for a Venus flytrap to produce 2-3 medium-sized flies, a spider or a mosquito. Do not feed Dionea:

  • - if she is sick or weak,
  • - if it grew up in poor light and in too humid environments,
  • - if the plant has undergone a transplant or any other stress.

And from the end of September, the feeding of Venus flytrap by Venus will be stopped by insects until the next spring.

Care for Venus flytrap during flowering.

The Venus flytrap blooms in May or June: on the high peduncles appear corymbose inflorescences of small white flowers with a diameter of up to 1 cm with a sweetish aroma. Flowering lasts several weeks. If you do not plan to get the seeds of Venus flytrap by autumn, then it is better to cut the flowers while they are still in buds, because the flowering greatly depletes the dyonya and prevents it from fully developing its traps.

Reproduction of Venus flytrap by leaf cuttings.

From the Venus flytrap, a leaf is cut, it is cut with Kornevin, a cutting is planted under an inclination into a substrate consisting of quartz sand and peat, covered with a transparent cap and kept under bright scattered light until the growth appears at the base. Usually this happens in about three months. Keep in mind that rooting of the flycatcher is quite frequent cases of lesions of the cuttings by fungi.

Pests Venus Flytrap.

Strangely enough, but the predator eating insects sometimes suffers from them. There have been cases when aphid infestation was caught in the traps of Venus flytrap, which led to their deformation. Against aphids, there are special insecticides in aerosols.

In conditions of insufficient air humidity, spider mites can settle on plants, which are destroyed by double or triple treatment with acaricide solution at weekly intervals.

Venus flytrap disease.

In wet soil and in conditions of too high air humidity, a black deposit of soot fungus appears on the plant. To combat it, use fungicides.

Botrytis or gray rot It also infects Venus flytrap in improper conditions of detention, covering it with a gray downy mildew. It is necessary to immediately remove the affected parts, and then subject the plant to treatment with a fungicide solution.

Опасней всего бактерицидное поражение венериной мухоловки, которое может возникнуть из-за того, что растение не в состоянии переварить пойманное насекомое. В таких случаях ловушка с жертвой начинает гнить, чернеть, и заболевание быстро распространяется на соседние органы. Необходимо своевременно удалить поврежденную ловушку и обработать венерину мухоловку раствором фунгицида.

Виды и сорта венериной мухоловки

Род дионеи монотипен, то есть представлен единственным видом – венериной мухоловкой. But there are many varieties of Venus flytraps. For example:

  • Danteit Trap - A plant with a diameter of 10-12 cm with traps in an amount of from 5 to 12 pieces. The color of the flower is green with a red stripe on the outside of the traps, the internal cavity of the traps is red. Both the leaves and the traps are located almost vertically
  • Jint - a plant with a rosette of green leaves that quickly forms traps larger than 5 cm in size, which acquire bright purple color in good light,
  • Akai Riu - variety with traps and leaves of dark red color, retaining this shade in bright light and in partial shade. On traps outside the green bar,
  • Reguila - a plant with green leaves and alternating traps of purple and red flowers,
  • Bohemian Garnet - a plant of dense green color with a diameter up to 12 cm with quantity of traps from 5 to 12 pieces. Wide leaves cover the entire substrate, traps are also arranged horizontally,
  • Fannel trap - a green plant at a young age, but over time its traps turn red, although the stalks remain green. On one flower of this variety grow two types of traps of different structure,
  • Crocedyle - young plants have a green color with a pinkish internal cavity of the traps, but over time the traps turn red. The leaves of the plant are arranged horizontally,
  • Triton - this Venus flytrap is green of an unusual form of a trap: they are elongated and cut only on one side, and their teeth sometimes stick together,
  • Dracula - Venus flytrap green with a red internal cavity of traps. The teeth on the traps are short, with a strip of red color on the outside of their base.

Menu for Dione

Sometimes you need to feed the Venus flytrap insects. The need for organic food in a predatory plant arises only with a lack of nitrogen. They are fed live insects - flies, mosquitoes, spiders. Sensitive hairs record movement, and the trap closes. The “predator” feeds rarely - usually once a month.

It is impossible to feed Dyonya with too large insects, experiment with crumbs from food. Each time feeding is carried out in different traps. After opening the trap, food residues must be carefully removed to avoid rotting.

In winter, there is no need for food. Also, the plant ceases to catch prey and process the proposed food in stressful situations. Excess nitrogen adversely affects the condition of the leaves - Dione starts to wither, turn yellow. Therefore, trying to feed her by force is not worth it.

For a period of three to four months, the period of rest lasts, so you need to know how to care for Venus flytrap in winter. Dioneu kept at low temperatures, not higher than 10 ° C. From the end of September, stop feeding.

Breeding methods

Dionea can be propagated by a peduncle or children. Seeds are rarely used, because of the complexity of growing.

Dionea is actively forming children. You can separate them during the next transplant. Too often, the Venus flytrap can not be disturbed - it prefers to grow a large "little family."

Dionei's roots are fragile, children are separated very carefully - a damaged root system makes it difficult to adapt in a new pot. Use only a sharp knife. Sections after division must be disinfected - treated with fungicide and coal powder.


For reproduction, the peduncle does not need to wait until it reaches full height. The peduncle is cut at the initial stage of growth - at a size of about 4–5 cm. A small container is filled with moist peat, the peduncle is buried 1 cm into it. The top is covered with a plastic cup or jar.

Root and form a young growth of a flower spike will be long. Before the sprouts appear, the greenhouse is airing, but not taking shelter for long. Periodically moisten the soil, do not allow even its short-term drying.

Growing venus flytrap from seed is a long and complicated process. Fresh seeds do not sprout - they need a preliminary stratification, that is, a long soaking, aging at certain temperatures.

For stratification, a tissue napkin is impregnated with a solution of the drug "Topaz", squeeze out excess water. The seeds of Dionei are wrapped in a napkin, packed in a plastic bag and put into the refrigerator. Fresh seeds must be kept in the fridge for a month or one and a half, and they have been harvested a long time before one and a half to two months.

Weekly seeds get and inspect. With the appearance of mold they are washed in a solution of the drug "Topaz". The solution is prepared only from distilled cold water at about the same temperature at which the stratification proceeds. After stratification, you can begin sowing seeds. Germinate them in the following sequence.

  • Sowing Seeds are sown in pre-sterilized, peat-treated fungicide. It is not necessary to bury the seeds, just sprinkle with a thin layer of peat.
  • Covering film. Capacity with crops cover with a film, put in a warm, sunny place. In a shaded area, luminous fluorescent lighting is required. For rapid germination, the temperature is maintained at 25–27 ° C.
  • Airing. Every day the edge of the film is slightly bent for ventilation. Accumulated condensate is removed from time to time. Shoots appear in two or three weeks. Sometimes germination lasts up to a month.
  • Transplant For five months, seedlings will develop, then growth will slow. If by this time before wintering is still far away, you need to transplant Dionee into another pot, carefully washing the roots from the old peat. Distilled water is used for washing.

Habitat of a predator flower in nature

The Venus flytrap is a small plant that naturally lives in North America, mainly on the Atlantic coast of the United States. In the world of floristry, it is one of the most famous insectivorous predators. The second name for Venus flytrap is Dionea.

Fascinating, sinister image of the flycatcher is actively used by the creators of cartoons and computer games. In life, everything is much simpler: the plant in this way has adapted to obtain food because of the difficult growing conditions.

The Latin name of this plant Dionaea muscipula is translated as "mousetrap." They say that the botanist, who gave the name Dionee, made a grammatical mistake when writing the word "flycatcher".

This amazing plant takes nutrients not only from the soil and air, but also from the “hand-picked” insects caught.

Dionea forms a small rosette of leaves measuring 3–7 cm each. These are the traps - feeding devices. Their edges are covered with teeth, and the surface is covered with sweet nectar and villus. As soon as the insect touches the villi, the trap closes, the teeth form an impassable grating for the victim. The line of existence is interrupted - the process of digestion begins, in which its own dialectic: someone dies, and someone gets an opportunity to prolong life, chances to multiply and expand the growing area.

She is really a hunter, waiting for her victim for a long time, and then shutting down the trap with lightning speed, as she closes her shell.

Who, how and why does the plant hunt

In the wild, the Venus flytrap grows where the soil is poor in nitrogen. But insects are rich in this chemical element. Therefore, the usual habitat of the plant - swamps with lots of midges, mosquitoes, spiders, flies, mosquitoes and other insects. Adaptation to difficult living conditions led Dione to this type of food.

Each trap during its life slams an average of 7 times, and 2-3 insects are able to digest it. If the prey escaped, and the leaf was closed for nothing, it will open the next day. The duration of digestion depends on the size of the insect. So, it will take 2 days for a mosquito, and 2 weeks for a big cricket.

When a Venus flytrap catches its prey, it does not immediately begin to consume it. The plant is still calculating whether the food will be able to repay the energy that will be spent on digestion. If not - the flycatcher releases the victim.

Features of the content in the indoor environment

Dionea is familiar to people since the discovery of America. The unusual plant was transported to Europe, began to display different varieties and grow as indoor.

Venus flytrap is represented by a single species of Dionaea muscipula. But for 200 years of cultivation, about 25 varieties have been bred. From each other, they differ in the size of the bush, the shape of the teeth and the color of the leaves: from green to burgundy and even purple. Often there are dionei with two-color traps. If the color depends on the variety, then its intensity depends on the lighting: the more light the plant receives, the brighter and more beautiful it looks.

Venus flytraps, which are able to accumulate sunlight and glow in the dark blue color, are bred.

In what soil to plant so that the plant grew healthy

Since the flycatcher lives in the swamps under natural conditions, the substrate needs a suitable type for indoor growing. For dionei, mixed sour peat, perlite and sphagnum moss in a ratio of 3: 2: 1. Perlite is a rock formation. For gardeners, it is sold in the form of porous stones of white or gray color. Before making the mixture, it should be soaked in distilled water for at least an hour, but can be left in water for several days. Stones will be saturated with moisture, they will not be taken away from the plant, and the soil will be provided with looseness and breathability. In such a mixture less often develop fungi, the roots do not rot.

It is impossible to use claydite instead of perlite! It has a lot of alkali, which will destroy the plant.

In their homeland, the plant population of this species is rapidly declining due to human activity.

How to make a transplant

  1. Fill the new pot with the prepared substrate.
  2. Carefully remove the plant with the ground from the old pot, trying not to slam the traps.
  3. Carefully shake the soil from the roots, while ensuring that the dirt does not fall on the leaves. We make a recess in the new pot, place the roots of Dionei in it, straighten it and fill it with soil, slightly tamping it.
  4. We pour a solution of Epin-extra, which will help the plant to transfer the stress of transplantation easier. The drug is diluted in distilled water, 1 sachet is designed for 5 liters.

Caring for a predatory exot

Any cultivated plant requires care, and the exotic dionea places very high demands on its owners. In order for the “predator” to grow safely at home, it always needs wet soil, good illumination and a rest period. It is not necessary for fun to artificially stimulate the process of slamming traps. A plant spends a lot of energy on it, gets a lot of stress and may even die.

Lighting - abundant

Dionea should be at least 4 hours a day in direct sunlight, and the rest of the time during the day - under the scattered. From spring to autumn, the plant can be kept on the balcony or on the street.

If it is not possible to set the flycatcher in a sunny place, it needs lighting. To do this, use two small fluorescent lamps with a capacity of 40 watts. Lamps are located at a height of 15-20 cm above the plant. It is necessary to illuminate Dionea for 16-18 hours. The best option - sodium or metal halide lamps.

Venus flytrap can not be rotated relative to the light source. If the pot has to be rearranged or moved, put a mark on it, which side it was turned to the light.

Watering - distilled or rainwater

Dionea watered only with distilled water. Ideal - water, corresponding to GOST 6709–72. It is sold in pharmacies and auto shops. Also suitable rainwater, but always clean. From above watering a flycatcher is impossible. From this the soil is compacted and its acidity decreases. Water is poured into the tray with a layer of 0.5 cm every other day. If the plant is outdoors, the water in the pan must be constantly. The soil should not dry up, otherwise the flycatcher will die.

Those flower growers who believe that a Venus flycatcher should be kept in closed aquariums, florariums and orchidariums are mistaken. From a lack of light with poor ventilation and high humidity, the plant will simply die. This is a proven fact. Dionea does not need high humidity, it grows well on the sunny windowsill. Of course, it can be placed in a low open aquarium, but then you need to carefully monitor the rate of watering. The substrate is always kept wet (except for the rest period), but not damp.

How and what to feed a trap plant

In nature, the Venus flytrap has developed a good adaptability to the harsh life and feels great on poor soils. Therefore, fertilizer fertilization should never be done!

You can feed only live insects, half the size of a trap. Venus flytrap eats quite rarely - about 1 time in one and a half, or even in two months. It is impossible to give bugs with too dense chitinous coating, insects that can damage the trap, as well as live "fish feed" (earthworms, bloodworms, etc.). Food for fish is saturated with water and can lead to plant rotting. It is strictly forbidden to put human food into traps: meat, sausage, fish, etc. The plant will not digest it at best, and will die at worst.

Whatever you put into the trap, do not try to open it with force and get it. After 1-2 days, it will open itself. Dionea growing in the open air is not necessary to feed. She feed herself.

In the autumn, it is time to stop feeding with live food, since in winter, for her, the best state is rest.

In winter, a lower temperature is needed.

If the flycatcher does not provide a rest period, then in the next season it will surely perish, that is, in typical room conditions the plant will live no more than one and a half to two years. The overwintering takes place at temperatures below + 10⁰C, and at least once, a wintered Dione will survive the frosts and down to -10C. In October-November, preparations for the rest period begin. At this time, the day shortens, the temperature decreases. The flycatcher is kept on a glassed-in balcony or at a slightly opened window. She herself reacts to natural changes and hibernates, forming at the same time wide leaves and small traps located near the ground. At positive temperatures, the leaves do not die.

The rest period lasts 3-4 months. It is necessary to isolate the window from the warm room film. At a temperature of + 5 ... + 10⁰C, a single fluorescent lamp requires more powerful light than 40 W, 8–9 hours per day. But the flycatcher can be stored in the refrigerator without light at a temperature of 0 ... + 5⁰C. To do this, in November, the plant and soil are treated with a fungicide, for example, Topaz or Maxim. Then the pot with the flower is placed in a plastic bag, making a couple of ventilation holes in it and sent to the fridge (not to the freezer!). Severely, of course, but this is the way to look after this unusual plant. In March, the flycatcher is taken out, transplanted into a new substrate and put on a bright window sill or balcony.

Watering during wintering in room conditions is necessary as the top layer of soil dries, and in the refrigerator - once a month. Water temperature should be the same as at the storage location. In artificial light, to exit the rest period, the light day is increased to 10 hours, and then smoothly during the month - to 16.

Flowering time

After leaving wintering in the spring, sometimes at the beginning of the summer, Diona throws out an arrow with several buds. To set the seeds, the flowers are pollinated by hand. A soft brush for drawing gently collect pollen from the stamens of one flower and transfer it to the pistil of another. Two days later, the flower will wither, and a small box will appear in its place. When this fruit dries and begins to crack, you can collect the seeds and cut the peduncle.

If there is no goal to get seeds, then the arrow is removed as early as possible before flowering. The cut is made near the soil, the resulting stump is powdered with crushed wood or activated charcoal. Timely pruning of the peduncle stimulates the formation of large traps and daughter rosettes. By the way, the arrow, along with the seeds and children, is used for breeding.

Each Dionei flower has long stamens with pollen and a pestle.

Can grow from peduncle

This is the easiest breeding option for Dionea and the most successful.

  1. Peduncle, grown by 3-5 cm, cut off near the ground.
  2. We plant vertically in a mixture of peat and perlite usual for dionei, deepening by 1 cm. There is no need to cut off the top of the head!
  3. Soil, lighting, temperature, humidity - as for an adult plant.
  4. The peduncle will turn black and dry, but a young sprout will appear in its place.

A simple way - the separation of child outlets

This is also an uncomplicated method of breeding Venus flytrap, besides familiar to all growers. With age, many plants form many babies that can be separated from the mother plant. Dionea is no exception.

  1. We take out the mother plant with the children from the pot.
  2. Carefully clean the roots and bulbs from the ground.
  3. Cut off with a thin sharp knife baby, which should have at least two roots.
  4. Cut the spots cut with powdered coal.
  5. Planting plants in different pots.

Dionee, consisting of several sockets, has more strength, it is more resistant to diseases and adverse conditions. Therefore, it is recommended that children be separated no more than once every 2-3 years.

Adult Dionea consists of several outlets

Option: planting cutting

Способ более трудоёмкий и приживаемость низкая, но попробовать все-таки стоит.

  1. Заранее стерилизуем торф (прожариваем в духовке, пропариваем на водяной бане или проливаем кипятком).
  2. Даём торфу восстановиться несколько дней и поливаем раствором фунгицида в дистиллированной воде (Топаз, Максим).
  3. Cut the leaf at the very bulb so as to capture the underground white part.
  4. Cut off the trap.
  5. Keep the cutting for 15–20 minutes in a growth stimulator (Heteroauxin, Ribav-extra).
  6. We plant in sterilized peat, deepening the entire white part and a little green, the cutting should be at a slight angle relative to the soil surface.
  7. We cover it with a can or put it in a greenhouse and transfer it to the lightest window sill, the humidity should be very high - almost 100%.
  8. If the cutting does not dry out and does not rot, then in 4–5 weeks the first leaves will appear from the peat.
  9. After another 2-3 months, the young Dionea can be transplanted into a beautiful pot.

Dionei's stalk is the leaf from which the trap was cut.

Stratification helps seeds germinate

  1. Weave a tissue or cotton pads in Topaz or Maxim solution, squeeze out excess water.
  2. We wrap the seeds in a napkin or we put them between cotton pads and pack them in a plastic bag with a lock or plastic container with a lid.
  3. We put in the fridge (+ 5 ... + 7⁰C) for 4–6 weeks fresh seeds and for 6–8 - harvested 3-4 months ago.
  4. Once a week we reach and inspect, when mold appears, we wash the seeds in Topaz or Maxim solution. In it, we moisten a new napkin and pack the seeds again. The solution is prepared from distilled water at the same temperature at which the stratification takes place.

How to sow and care for young plants

  1. Peat is sterilized in advance and poured with a solution of one of the above fungicides.
  2. Seeds are not deepened! They can be gently pressed into the peat and sprinkled with a thin layer of soil.
  3. Cover the pot with crops with a film or place it in a greenhouse, put it on a warm sunny window or light it up with lamps for 16-18 hours a day. The temperature favorable for germination is 25–27⁰C.
  4. Shoots will appear in 2-4 weeks. Do not miss this moment. Sprouts need to be aired, gradually opening the hothouse or bending back the edge of the film.
  5. The young plant will develop 4–5 months and then freeze. There is a preparation for wintering. But if this winter is far away, it is necessary to transplant Dionea once in a growth period into a new substrate, washing the roots of the old with distilled water. This will push the preparation to the rest period, and the plant will grow noticeably.
  6. We send for wintering and follow the rules of care as well as for the adult flycatcher.

Before the emergence of seedlings, the seeds are covered with a film, and then they begin to be aired and the shelter is completely removed.

How to grow?

Immediately it is worth noting that the Venus flytrap can be grown on a flowerbed in the garden, and on the windowsill. The process of growing this plant characterized by a high degree of complexity. Despite this, caring for a flower is not so difficult, unlike some other exotic plants. Speaking about the care of Venus flytrap, first of all, it is necessary to organize optimal conditions for its development and growth.

Venus flytrap recommended to place on the windowsill, which is located on the east or west side of the apartment. Every day the flower needs sun baths, the duration of which should be 5 hours in the morning and / or evening. If the plant is not enough light, it is necessary to organize an artificial light.

Predatory plants are often grown in florariums or terrariums, since this is the way to achieve the necessary humidity. It should be noted that in such cases artificial lighting is a necessity for the plant. For this purpose it is recommended to use lamps whose power is at least 40 watts. They are located above the predatory flower at a height of not less than 20 cm. Lamps should work daily for 15 hours.

Venus flytrap does not like stagnant air, and also needs constant airing. At the same time it is impossible to allow drafts in the room in which the plant is contained. You should also avoid the midday sun with direct sunlight. In summer, the Venus flytrap can be brought to a balcony or terrace. A flower pot does not need to be rotated around its axis in order to achieve uniform illumination, as many growers used to do with other indoor flowers, as the Venus flytrap does not tolerate any movement.

Comfortable most predatory plant will feel in the summer at an air temperature of 20 to 30 degrees. In winter, the air temperature in the room can drop to 7 degrees.

The root system of Venus flytrap does not have the ability to process mineral salts from the soil, so watering the plants must be done with soft rainwater. At the same time, it is not recommended to accumulate rainwater in metal containers, for this you can use plastic buckets. If you do not have the opportunity to collect rainwater, you can use distilled water for irrigation.

The potted soil of Venus flytrap should be wet throughout the entire time. Lack of moisture is disastrous for plant traps. In order to moisten the substrate, the plant pot can be placed on a tray with such an amount of water that all drainage holes located at the bottom are submerged in it. Thus, the predatory flower will be able to independently fill the necessary need for moisture.

Speaking about the care of the Venus flytrap at home, you should pay attention to the fact that the plant does not need to make any fertilizer in the substrate, as it feeds on insects.

What to feed?

First of all, you need to know that the Venus flycatcher is strictly prohibited to feed the following insects:

  • Earthworms,
  • Bugs in a hard chitinous shell,
  • Gnawing insects that can damage the trap.

Also, the plant is strictly forbidden to feed meat or sausage, as the traps from this food begin to rot. For the entire vegetation period, 2-3 live medium-sized flies, a mosquito or a spider will be sufficient for the plant. The plant also can not be fed in the following cases:

  • If it is sick and weakened,
  • If it grew in poor light and in too humid air,
  • If it suffered a transplant or other stress.

The feeding of the flycatcher with insects should stop with the onset of September. This fasting should continue until the next spring.

Venus flytrap, as a rule, at home should be transplanted every 2-3 years, transplantation is recommended in the spring. It is recommended to choose a pot for dionei not wide, but deep, since its root system sometimes reaches 20 cm in length. Caution is recommended during transplantation, since the root system of a predatory plant is rather fragile.

  • The flower must be removed from the pot, the root system is freed from the old soil. If he moves away badly from the roots, it must be soaked in water for a few minutes. After that, the leaves are washed.
  • The substrate in the new pot should consist of 4 parts of peat, 1 part of quartz sand and 2 parts of perlite. It should be noted that before mixing the substrate perlite should be soaked in water for a week, and the sand should be boiled in the distillate.
  • Venus flytrap does not need drainage.
  • After transplantation with Venus flytrap, it will take about 5 weeks to adapt to a new substrate, therefore the plant must be placed in penumbra and increase the frequency of irrigation.

Types and varieties of plants

Venus flytrap or Dionea belongs to a small community of plants capable of rapid movement. In her own way, Dionea, she is the only representative of the species, although she has distant relatives in the person of Aldrovand, vesicular and dewyards, from which, apparently, she came.

The natural distribution area of ​​Venus flytrap is small: swamps in the southern part of the United States (Georgia, North and South Carolina, Florida). There she is on the verge of extinction. But in room culture Dionea is spread quite widely, but mainly abroad.

In nature, the Venus flytrap is a compact plant and 15cm is its largest height. From a short underground bulbous stem grows from 4 to 7 leaves, forming a rosette. Flowering occurs in spring. Peduncle long, so that insects pollinators, arriving at white flowers, do not accidentally fall into the trap.

When flowering ends, new traps form at the ends of the elongated leaves. In a natural species, their inner walls have a reddish tint. After the introduction into culture by the method of hybridization and the subsequent selection, hybrid forms were created that are distinguished by a great decorative effect. The number of plant hybrids exceeded 25 - they differ in leaf color, shape and size of denticles, and the plants can have differences of one variety.

The following hybrids are the most decorative:

  1. Red Dragon. The color of the leaves and traps is red-maroon. Requires maximum illumination, otherwise the color fades.
  2. Low giant It has the biggest traps.
  3. Jaws The traps are reddish inside and green outside. The shape of the teeth is triangular.
  4. Long Red Fingers. The hybrid is prone to mutation, it can form crossed and accrete traps, their shape is cupped, and the color of long teeth, which sometimes grow together, is red.
  5. Bristletooth The traps are red, the cloves are rare and short, forming many babies.
  6. Fondue It has a high mutation ability, so plants within a variety can differ greatly from each other.

Home care

Care for Venus flytrap differs in many ways from that of other indoor plants, and all because of the specific conditions in which the flower is used to dwell. He will not tolerate even the slightest disruption in care and can respond to it with illness and even death.

But the substrate for growing must meet the following requirements:

  • acidity ranging from 3.5 to 4.5,
  • composition of high acidic peat mixed with perlite, taken in a ratio of 1: 1 or 2: 1 (perlite is first kept in distilled water for 7 days, changing it at least two times),

Sometimes a mixture of top peat and quartz sand is used in proportions of 2: 1 or 3: 1. Normal river sand is not suitable, and the quartz sand is washed first with running and then distilled water. It is allowed to replace sand with ground quartz, which must be washed in the same way.

Optimal conditions of detention

Sunshine is very important for Dionea, without which photosynthesis is simply impossible. 4-5 hours of direct sunlight per day is the minimum rate. This amount is sufficient when the rest of the time the plant is also well lit. If you don’t get Venus flytrap with this amount of natural light, you need to light it with two small fluorescent lamps installed 20 cm above the plant or sodium phytolamp.

The length of daylight during the growing season should be from 14 to 16 hours. Do not be afraid to take your favorite in the summer on a sunny balcony or garden. From spring to autumn she will be best there. Yes, and the problem of nutrition in the open air, she decides on her own.

The position of the flower pot in relation to the light should not change. You can not turn it.

Some growers put Dione in a closed aquarium or florarium. Such content can be detrimental to the plant due to the lack of air exchange and high humidity. In extreme cases, you can use a low aquarium without a lid, be sure to correct the watering.

For Dionei, the air humidity can be within wide limits: from 35 to 70%. The plant positively refers to the spraying of water, and when kept outdoors it is simply necessary. Venus flytrap loves fresh air, but reacts poorly to drafts.

Flower requires careful handling. The traps can not be touched by hands, from this they turn black and fall. If there is no desire to propagate Dionea with seeds, it is better to cut the peduncle before flowering, which greatly depletes the plant, this is especially important for plants that have not yet been hibernating.

It is carried out depending on the method of maintenance of the plant. The main laws:

  • watering only distilled water
  • its temperature should not differ from the ambient temperature,
  • use only the method of watering through the pan,
  • at room content, water is poured into the tray with a layer of 0.5 cm every 1-2 days,
  • if the flower is outside, the water in the pan should always be there, it is poured so that the water layer is at least 0.5 cm,
  • water for irrigation is acidified by adding 1 drop of 99% formic acid per 10 liters of water, but this should be done infrequently,

It is impossible to allow the substrate to dry out, the ground should be constantly wet, but it should not be brought to the state of dirt.

Top dressing and fertilizer

This plant does not need traditional dressing for indoor flowers. His food is live insects, but not any. You can feed Dionea with flies, bees, she will not refuse spiders and even slugs. The size of the insect should be 2 times smaller than the trap, and it is better if they are very small. For the growing season, carried out in room conditions, all you need is three feedings of 1 insect. If Dionea spends the summer in the fresh air, you don’t need to feed her - she will find food on the street herself. A purchased plant in a store is fed for the first time after regrowth in new conditions of 3-4 leaves. In winter, the flower does not need nutrition.

How to transplant?

The frequency of transplants depends on the degree of mineralization of irrigation water. If the salt in it is less than 5 mg per 1 l, then it can be transplanted in a year, otherwise an annual transplant is necessary. Carry it out in late spring or early summer. How to transplant?

  • The day before transplanting spray plant Epin.
  • Cook a tall, but not too wide pot with lots of drainage holes.
  • Cover part of the pot with substrate.
  • Keep the plant above the bulbs, without touching the traps.
  • Immerse in the substrate so that all the light parts are covered with it.

The plant purchased in the store is immediately transplanted into a self-prepared substrate, spilling it with Ribav-extra.

This plant seasonality is strongly pronounced. Therefore, in the winter for 3-4 months, it is in a state of deep rest. Dionei needs to prepare for wintering gradually, lowering the temperature and reducing daylight hours. It will take about a month to prepare. The optimum temperature for keeping a flower is 0-5ºС. For the first wintering, it is slightly higher - 5-7 degrees Celsius. If the plant has already hibernated, it may be lower. The critical limit is minus 10 ºС.

Dionea herself will tell you that it is time for her to winter. With proper preparation, the leaves become wider, and the traps are small, arranged horizontally.

In the case of wintering at low positive temperatures, Dionea is poured into the pan if the top layer of the substrate dries out a little. At temperatures above plus 5 degrees, it is also illuminated with a cold-light fluorescent lamp suspended 20 cm above the flower, organizing an eight-hour light day for it. The water that the flower is watered during this period should not differ in temperature from the ambient air.

If there is no cold place for wintering in the room, the flower can be placed in the refrigerator for a rest period.

But first you need to prepare it:

  • after reducing daylight and gradually lowering the temperature, the flower pot is shed with a fungicide diluted in distilled water (but only in cold water), sprayed with a solution and the flower itself,
  • put a plastic bag on the pot with it, in which they make 2 holes for ventilation,
  • placed in a refrigerator, where the temperature is from 0 to 5 degrees Celsius,
  • the light at this time is not required by the plant, but once a month it is necessary to moisten the top layer of the substrate with distilled water with a temperature the same as in the refrigerator. After such wintering, the plant should be transplanted into a new substrate, all dead leaves and traps are removed.

During the winter dormancy Dionee food is not needed.