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Step by step making warm beds do it yourself in the spring: popular technologies

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Summer residents and owners of garden sites spend a lot of time and forces, processing the site. Loosening, weed control, digging the entire plot require a lot of energy. But there is a way of a more rational approach to farming and harvesting much earlier - growing garden crops on loose beds. This method relieves a gardener from some heavy work and leaves time not only for gardening efforts, but also for rest. Although you first have to work hard.

Advantages and disadvantages of high beds

  1. No need to dig up and weed the whole area annually. The limited size of the beds allows you to more effectively deal with weeds, and digging will replace the easy loosening.
  2. If the site is over-moistened with groundwater, and this is not suitable for plants, high beds are a solution to this problem.
  3. You can make them even in those areas of the garden, where there are absolutely inappropriate conditions for traditional beds.
  4. Crop ripens faster by heating the soil. Basically, the temperature of the soil in bulk beds 10 degrees higher. This allows you to quickly harvest in a short summer.
  5. It is easier to remove weeds from a small area. Depending on the height of the beds, do not have to bend over much.
  6. The paths between the beds can be laid out of tiles or bricks, covered with gravel or rubble. You can sow grass for lawn to walk along the paths in rainy, overcast weather. In addition, neat paths will give neatness and well-groomed appearance throughout the site.
  7. Pledged drainage has a beneficial effect on the future harvest, the roots receive more oxygen, they are not over-humidified.
  8. Installation and disassembly of the built beds are easy to make by hand. And for the frame fit easily accessible materials or those that remain from the construction work.
  9. To protect against frost beds can easily be covered with a film or agrofibre.

However, there are several inconveniences that may arise during the operation of high beds:

  1. quick drying of water due to the high temperature of the soil. It is necessary to water more often in order not to lose the plants and the crop,
  2. the possibility of the appearance of the bear in a favorite place - a fenced plot with humus,
  3. in order to prevent the possibility of soil depletion in a limited space, additional fertilizing with mineral fertilizers is necessary,
  4. to create such a bed will have to spend more time and effort.

Types of bulk beds by type of frame

The framework can be cheap and affordable materials. Most often, slate, wood, branches, plastic, bricks, stones or metal are used. When choosing a material for the frame can be guided by practical or aesthetic properties of materials.

  • Plastic frame. Sheets of plastic are easily assembled and disassembled, do not need additional processing, can last for a very long time. However, some types of plastics may contain in their composition harmful substances, toxins, which is unsafe when growing fruits for human consumption. When using plastic, you need to be sure that the material is environmentally safe and will not harm nature or humans.
  • Concrete frame It is recommended to do if the most reliable support is needed. For example, the garden is located on a slope, or the beds will be located on several floors. It should be noted that the collection of this frame is the longest, and you need to take care of it long before the start of garden work.
  • Slate frame. The installation does not take much time, and can last for a long time if care is taken when installing walls, since slate is a very fragile material.
  • Metal frame. The most durable, reliable and mobile type of a framework if it is required to transfer a bed to other place. It is important to protect the metal from moisture exposure prior to installation, to treat the agent from corrosion.
  • Brick frame (stone). Brick walls are made in classic style. Will be suitable only in the event that further it is not planned to dismantle and transfer the beds from place to place. Installing a brick frame will take longer than installing plastic or metal. Before planting, you will need to have time to lay, and wait until it hardens.
  • Twig frame (vines). The most original, albeit short-lived version of the walls for the beds. Despite the fact that the material is easily accessible, you need to have certain skills in weaving from the rod.
  • Wood frame. For installation use boards, logs and bars. This option is both environmentally friendly and most convenient for bulk beds, even if there are some drawbacks. The service life of such a frame is short-lived, the tree darkens over time, losing an attractive appearance, can begin to rot, and therefore needs to be protected from moisture. The framework from a tree can be established even by the beginning gardener.
    1. For a long service fence, it is better to take boards that slowly rot. Larch or oak boards are best suited, or wood can be treated with a safe means of protection from damp.
    2. After preparing the boards of the required length, it remains to assemble the box: you can attach the boards to wooden posts that are pre-installed at the corners, or you can fasten the boards to each other with iron corners.

Description of the manufacturing process

  1. Decide on the size of the future beds, its width, height and length. Recommended parameters: height - 15-20 cm above the ground, width - 90-120 cm, length - 150-300 cm. The height is determined, depending on the fertility of the soil on the site. The poorer the soil, the higher the bed rises (up to 30 cm above the ground). If the land is fertile, 15-20 cm is enough. The width should be calculated for 2 rows so that the plants can get a lot of sunlight. If you make 3 rows of plants, the middle row will be deprived of light and air, which will affect the yield. The length depends only on the size of the area.
  2. Select the material for the frame and assemble the frame.
  3. Filling. It is better to complete this stage before the start of frosts, so that the organic layer starts to decompose, and by the spring there was already a ready bed with fertile soil. Moreover, the material for filling in the autumn more. Layers are listed from bottom to top.
  • The bottom is covered with metal mesh or cardboard. It will be protection from moles, shrews and other rodents. Of course, the cardboard is not as reliable as the grid, however, when it rots, it will become an additional fertilizer.
  • Drainage layer - remnants of wood, branches, twigs or bars. Due to the properties of the tree to collect moisture in the wood will help a lot if the summer is too dry.
  • Small plant residues, such as bark, straw or twigs. Besides the fact that this layer will store moisture, it will be a source of useful elements. Do not use plants affected by diseases.
  • The penultimate layer is grass, leaves and sawdust, bird droppings, eggshell, lime or rotted manure.
  • Fertile soil. It is enough to fill with soil 20 cm thick. These layers do not need to be mixed.

Planting vegetables

In the first year it is best to plant cucumbers, tomatoes, sweet peppers, cabbage (any kind), eggplants, zucchini, pumpkin or zucchini. These plants will give a rich harvest for the soil rich in organic matter. In the second year it is better to plant roots or greens. Thus, crop rotation will be observed. After the second crop is harvested, it is necessary to restore the organic layer, add compost and earth.

Care features

Due to the "filling" of the garden, a very nutritious and fertile soil is obtained. It will warm up due to the small area, and organic decomposition processes will go faster. But it is worth considering that the water does not linger in them, so they need more frequent watering.

To preserve moisture, mulching is necessary. When the plant reaches 10 cm in length, you need to pour around a layer of sawdust or straw. And the mulch will serve as reliable protection against weeds. Once a season, you need to add a new layer, without having to remove the previous layer of mulch.

Autumn work

After harvesting the soil settles, and the height of the beds decreases. To do this, you need to update the organic layer, add manure, plant residues, and fill it with good soil from above. Then the bed must be watered and covered with foil before the onset of spring. If there is damage to the frame, it is necessary to carry out repairs, prepare it for the next season.

Warm beds with their own hands

Step by step making warm beds do it yourself in spring: popular technology. From this article, you can find out in what order step-by-step production of warm beds is done with your own hands in the spring, as well as familiarize yourself with the basic rules for processing and preparing the soil, learn the most popular manufacturing techniques for growing various vegetable crops, get access to basic information and video reviews. . The text details the garden arrangement method recommended by Igor Lyadov.

With the help of high beds for heat-loving vegetables, you can properly organize the space in the garden and get a rich harvest.

Step by step making warm beds with your own hands in the spring: basic information

Warm beds - the best option designs, which is suitable for growing most crops. Most often they settle in the fall, but this process can be transferred to the spring. Of course, in this case, the technology has certain subtleties. Step-by-step recommendations, photos of warm beds and video reviews can be used as a visual aid for working on the site.

Having correctly laid all the layers for a warm bed, it is possible to provide a nutrient medium for plants for several years ahead

This kind of beds is presented in the form of frames, filled with:

  • fertile soil
  • compost
  • fertilizers
  • straw

Features and benefits of smart beds for high yields

Smart or warm beds have certain features that distinguish them from conventional designs.

Warm garden beds can be prepared both in spring and autumn

What are the advantages of the warm beds in spring:

  • plants receive the maximum amount of heat and nutrients, regardless of the location and quality of the soil on the site,
  • spring frosts will not be able to harm the landings, which are reliably protected from freezing,
  • plants do not need an extra dose of fertilizer, because the soil already contains the necessary nutrients,
  • the presence of mulch in the composition of the filler slows down the process of evaporation of moisture. Thus, the plants will not dry out even without abundant watering on hot days, and the root system will not lack water,
  • a layer of mulch effectively restrains weeds, so the bed requires minimal care. Weeds dry up and rot over time, providing an additional amount of fertilizer,
  • the designs allow, if desired, to convert warm beds into greenhouses. To do this, you must install over the frame of the arc and stretch the film over them. This will allow you to get an early harvest,
  • the crop is not in contact with the soil, so the fruits are kept clean and dry, keeping their freshness,
  • if each year to adhere to the correct pattern of alternation of cultures, such a bed will serve at least 4 years.

When laying layers in a warm bed, it is necessary to carefully control the amount of fertilizers in order not to increase the permissible soil temperature for the root system of plants.

Making a warm bed DIY spring: design with drainage

The first step is to determine the size of the future bed. This indicator is selected taking into account which vegetables will be subsequently grown. In addition to the beds, paths are also applied to the plan for future construction. The best option for arranging the garden will be a long ridge with a convenient approach to them. The height of the structure depends on how deep the plant root system is located. Sometimes warm beds can reach 1 m in height.

How to make a spring bed with a drainage system:

  1. On the site according to the developed scheme marking is applied. The territory is carefully prepared: freed from debris, large stones, stumps.
  2. A trench is dug needing depth.
  3. The installation of the box, whose height is about 60 cm, is being carried out. For the manufacture of the box, old slate, wooden bars or boards can be used. Alternatively, any other available materials may be used. If you intend to use a stationary bed for a long time, its sides can be folded from bricks or stones. The last version of the material looks noble, but requires a significant investment of money.
  4. At the bottom of the grid is laid, which will prevent access to the garden rodents.
  5. The drainage system is being laid. For this, broken bricks or stones are used.
  6. According to the chosen method, the layers of fertilizers are stacked.

Most gardeners note the high efficiency of arrangement of the beds according to Igor Lyadov.

It does not hurt to think in advance about the possibility of installing arcs for organizing a greenhouse and deepen pipe sections in the required places.

Filling fertilizer warm beds with their own hands

There are many trench filling schemes in order to improve soil fertility. Therefore, many people have a question when creating a warm bed with their own hands, what to put first at the bottom of the structure and what the next layers should be. In fact, this principle of creating a kitchen garden is based on the formation of a compost pit, due to which high-quality feeding of plants is carried out, and the planting is heated due to the heat generated in the decomposition process. As a result, the growth and maturation of crops is significantly accelerated.

The sequence of laying layers for a warm bed is very important for efficient growth of vegetable crops.

The standard filling scheme is as follows:

  1. The lower layer is formed from materials that decompose and rot over a long period of time. For these purposes, suitable large wood chips, branches, trunks of plants such as Jerusalem artichoke, sunflower, corn.
  2. The second layer must be organic. To fill the beds at this stage, you can use weeds, leaves, tops, plants, peel, remaining after cleaning fruits and vegetables.
  3. The third layer is formed from chemical fertilizers, which act as catalysts that enhance the decomposition process. Use of chalk, ashes is allowed. You can put a layer consisting of paper or newspapers.
  4. If this is necessary, when creating smart beds with your own hands, you can repeat the fertilizer application scheme, except that the wood layer is re-created from thin branches and small chips.

The top layer is fertile soil, which should be covered with straw.

At arrangement of a warm bed it is possible to lay the system of internal watering, but in this case it is necessary to take care of the moisture resistance of the material from which the box is made

Recommendations for the manufacture of warm beds: video and table of filling

It takes about 5-8 years for all fertilizers that fit into the construction of a warm bed. As a result, the usual fertile soil forms in the frame. In the future, it can be effectively used in order to improve the physical condition of the soil in other areas of the summer cottage.

Layer Fill Table

High beds - their advantages and disadvantages

Before embarking on the arrangement of the beds, you first need to know their main advantages and disadvantages.

The advantages of using high beds include:

  • If your site is not high-quality and not the most fertile soil, with the help of high beds and fencing you can arrange a place for planting with purchased soil.
  • For each type of plant, planted on a bed, you can equip individual drainage, suitable directly for this culture.
  • Due to the presence of the sides, the roots of creeping weeds will not penetrate the bed.
  • With such facilities it is more convenient to harvest, weeding, care for plants.
  • It is worthwhile to simply stretch the film for a greenhouse, warming the bed, and you can collect early harvests in the northern regions.
  • Mobility. If necessary, the fence of wood or plastic can be quickly disassembled and moved to another location.
  • High efficiency of a similar construction that will allow to receive a better crop, than on a usual bed of the same area.
  • The soil inside such a bed for a long time remains loose, which means that the roots will receive a large amount of oxygen.

By the way, for the arrangement of such beds it is not necessary to acquire expensive materials, since the fence can be arranged from improvised means.

Such structures have both pluses and minuses, which you should also learn about before the moment of their arrangement. The disadvantages are attributed:

  • The higher the bed, the faster the land will dry out, which means it will be necessary to increase the number of waterings
  • Почва в подобных условиях быстро истощается, что приводит к необходимости дополнительного использования подкормок.
  • Because of the biological activity of soil mixture and manure, which is used for arranging beds, plant seeds often do not germinate, and therefore it is better to plant seedlings of crops on such beds.
  • The fenced plot often becomes the favorite habitat of the bear, which is why you will have to fight with the pest.

If you think that there are more pluses than minuses, you can safely start creating a high bed, and below we will share important practical advice.

Dimensions of beds and fences - determine the optimal size

Before we start creating high beds with our own hands, we will first determine its size. The height of the sides usually depends on what the soil on the site. If the cottage is famous for its high-quality and fertile soil, then you can raise the bed by 15 cm, but if it is worse, you will have to make the bed higher (at least 30 cm) to avoid contact of the bulk ridge with the ground.

When arranging a “warm” design, the height should be at least 50 cm. Also, watch the width, because ease of use depends on this bed. It is best to make the width so that when weeding or others work to reach the middle of the bed. The optimal width is 90-120 cm.

The only thing you can do at your own discretion is the length of the bed, since it all depends on the size of the yard or vegetable garden. But the longer the sides, the better you should take care of strengthening them with stakes.

What material to choose for the fence?

Fencing high beds can be made of various materials, including those that remained from the construction of the house.

If you decide to make your own fencing, you can apply the following:

  • The sides of wood - this is a very simple and environmentally friendly option. The disadvantage is that the tree starts to rot very quickly. But for the arrangement it is possible to use not only boards, but also trimming, round timber, etc. To extend the life of the material, it is necessary to treat the tree with antiseptics or bitumen mastic.
  • It is also possible to use stones or bricks, similar materials, which will make it possible to make reliable and durable high beds, but the cost of arrangement will be quite high. In addition, it is necessary to use cement mortar to bond the stones.
  • Slate. Quite inexpensive material, easy to arrange, but it is important to remember that in its composition there is asbestos, which adversely affects the soil.
  • Black sheet metal. Fencing of such material will be short-lived, but it is inexpensive.

If you are going to equip a flower garden, you can use plastic borta or curb ribbons. As you can see, there are plenty of options for arranging fences, but we advise you to pay attention to the tree - this is the most environmentally friendly option.

High beds with the hands from boards - the step-by-step instruction

Let's take a closer look at the process of making such a row of wooden boards. When choosing a type of tree, give preference to larch or oak, since this wood has the maximum resistance to decay.

Further act as follows:

  1. Cut wooden blanks into required dimensions. The most convenient at this stage to use a hacksaw.
  2. To obtain the box received boards need to be stapled. There are two options: dig in the corners of the future garden pillars and attach boards or fasten them to the corners using metal corners. If you choose the first option, it is more convenient to use screws as fasteners.
  3. After all corners are attached, the construction is considered finished! As you can see, there is nothing simple. And do not forget to cover the tree with antiseptic.

And then everything is simple: we cover the bottom of the future bed with polyethylene to protect it from weeds, pour soil mixture into the box and start planting.

To make a hut with your own hands on the site, just read our tips.

What are the supports for plants, what material to choose for them? Read about it here.

Here you will learn the basic rules for creating compost for plant nutrition.

How to retool a bed in a greenhouse?

Also, gardeners will be useful to learn about how you can convert the beds in the greenhouse. Everything is also quite simple here: the principle of making the box is similar to the instructions we described above. After creating the frame, proceed to the creation of the greenhouse itself:

  1. To the side (the longest) sides you need to attach fasteners for arcs, and all the holes should be located directly opposite each other. The distance between them is about 50-75 cm.
  2. We lay the bottom of the greenhouse with foil, and put a metal grid underneath, thus avoiding the appearance of moles or other rodents.
  3. From above we lay a layer of sand, wooden shavings, humus and chernozem. Each layer should be slightly moistened, which will speed up the process of decay.
  4. To make arcs, you can use steel wire or a plastic pipe with a diameter of not more than 2 cm. We collect the pipe bush in a semicircle and insert it into fastenings made on the fence. Top perfume seal, using a crossbar.
  5. The resulting design is covered with a film and fix its edges along the sides.

High beds make harvesting easier

After planting, carefully grind the soil with sawdust, which will avoid the rapid evaporation of moisture from the ground. And some gardeners instead of sawdust will apply a black film - they cover the bed with it, making a hole in advance for each plant.

The peculiarity of creating beds according to Mitlayder

The famous American accounting Meatlider, who developed the same system of beds, also developed a high construction, the main difference of which is that the width of each ridge does not exceed 45 cm. This is an ideal option for those who cannot boast of large plot sizes.

Material for the fence, you can take any, but it's worth to stay on the boards. The filler will consist of sawdust and fertile soil. between rows should be laid with agrofiber, which will avoid the growth of weeds.

Design features

Arrangement of high beds allows you to open new horizons in front of the gardeners and flower growers. This approach to planting has many advantages, allows you to create an attractive design, improve the efficiency of growing berries, vegetables, flowers. Crops at the same time rapidly increase, even if the soil in the area is not very fertile.

Emaciated Stepanenko: I weighed 108, and now 65. Saw warm at night. Read more here.

The main advantage of the design is a faster warming of the soil than on a conventional bed. In addition, the process of caring for plants becomes much easier, since there is no need to bend over low.

Important! The filler of high beds are organic substances. This provides a nutrient medium to the root system of plants. Planting develops faster, the crop is more abundant.

Advantages and disadvantages of the design

For the construction of such objects will require minimal cost. Summer residents have appreciated the possibilities of structures, high beds in the country with their own hands used for growing strawberries, beets, carrots.

I was able to get rid of ARTHROSIS AND OSTEOCHONDROSIS PER MONTH! Operations are not needed. Read more here.

Advantages of raised structures:

  • The yield does not depend on the properties of the soil on the site, its composition determines the gardener himself. There is the possibility of planting a variety of plants on the territory with a rocky surface or heavy clay soils.
  • Digging is not required or is shallow, you can simply stir up the earth with garden forks.
  • Care is simplified at times. It is only necessary to double the soil. First, they are loosened in the spring when they are planting, then - when the harvest is gathered.
  • The construction of high beds is very simple, it is easy to dismantle. The location of the object is easy to change if there is a desire to perform a new design of the territory.
  • The limited space makes it easier to eliminate weeds.
  • Accelerated ripening of vegetables on a high construction due to the excellent drainage system, which is organized inside the structure.
  • The soil of high beds is perfectly protected from freezing, the frosts do not bother the plants at all, although in spring they are often. Early autumn frosts are easy to warn, just cover the planting with polyethylene or tarpaulin to keep them.
  • High constructions perfectly save the berries from being washed by streams of water during heavy rainfall, which become a frequent cause of the death of the crop.

There are very few disadvantages of such structures:

  • It is necessary to take into account the need for enhanced mineral fertilization, more frequent watering.
  • Medvedka also requires the closest attention, this pest loves high beds, to settle there often.

Optimal size

The height of the board should be within 15 - 50 cm, the placement of the beds on fertile soil allows you to make the board only 20 cm. This size of the embankment is quite enough to get a decent harvest.

If the soil is not too fertile, the bed is raised higher, up to 50 cm. Some gardeners make even higher structures, choosing a height that allows processing, weeding without leaning.

The width of the beds should be in the range of 90-120 cm, this is quite enough to work comfortably on the bed. In length, constructions from 1.5 to 3 meters are more common.

High bed material

For such beds it is necessary to build a fence. It can be a box that you can make with your own hands or buy ready-made. In addition, the fencing is sheet material, for example, slate of any kind.

The choice of material is determined by preferences, desires, financial opportunities. You can use a variety of materials:

  1. Brick - safe, durable. You need to have skills in laying.
  2. The easiest way to use wood. Fit bars, boards. Wood is used most often, but it is highly susceptible to rotting, therefore it is necessary to treat it with an antiseptic.
  3. Slate, asbestos-cement slabs are quite accessible, harmless, but have high brittleness. When cutting material, it is imperative to protect the respiratory organs from dust.

How to make a design:

  1. First, the material is prepared: the plates are cut to the chosen sizes.
  2. Next, dig trenches corresponding to the specified size.
  3. Slate plates are exposed around the perimeter of the pit.
  4. Strips of flat slate are connected by corners in order to give greater stability to the bed.
  5. Then the soil is filled in trenches. The earth needs to be thoroughly rammed.
  6. Plastic - the material has moisture resistance, decorative, is inexpensive, is durable.

Important note! The use of plastic requires special care. Some types of material are toxic, emit harmful substances that harm all living things.

The use of plastic panels is ideal, given certain reservations. It provides excellent thermal insulation, has a long service life, the bed can be given any shape. Specialty stores offer a variety of plastic panels, the choice is very large. There is no fundamental difference in the performance of plastic structures. They are made exactly the same as slate.

  1. Stone constructions are practical, durable, decorative. The creation of a structure provides for:
    • Digging a trench 30 cm deep. It breaks out around the perimeter of the selected site.
    • The bottom of the pit is covered with ruberoid, you can use polyethylene.
    • At a third of the depth of the trench covered with sand.
    • Stones are laid on the sand, concrete is poured in beforehand.
    • Then the masonry is applied using the mortar, which is to be applied only on the inner surface of the stone.
    • After 3 weeks, the solution is completely set, you can pour the soil, plant the plants.

For a more accurate understanding of the execution process, it is suggested to review video. The material describes in detail the stages of construction. wooden box.

Watch the video! Warm high beds

DIY bed: step by step instructions

We make a bed 3 m long, 1.8 m wide, 40 cm high. You can make the construction of other dimensions - wider, longer, taller. Everything is determined by the needs, the size of the site.

Materials and tools:

  • Board 5x20 cm, preferably breed less susceptible to rotting.
  • Antiseptic.
  • Hacksaw.
  • Hammer.
  • Stouslo.
  • Nails
  • The grid is construction.

Preparatory stage

First determine the location of the structure. A big advantage will be the installation of beds where the soil was previously unsuitable for growing crops. This happens:

  • part of the lawn
  • weedy place
  • waste ground
  • other similar options.

Begin work with cleaning the site, cleaning garbage, removing perennial weeds. One-year weeds can be left, they will not become a hindrance. It is necessary to dig up the earth once with the grass to increase the moisture permeability of the soil.

When the site is prepared, it is necessary to accurately identify the dimensions of the future structure.

Assembly box

  • Prepared boards with a length of 3 m and 1.8 m, 4 pieces each, are stored in bars longer than 40 cm.
  • The ends of the boards must be cut at a 45 degree angle. This is done with the help of the vessel.

  • Connect all the boards, nailing them to the wooden bars, getting a box.
  • Collect the box completely.
  • The longer sides of the box are reinforced with additional bars.
  • To finish the top edge of the box on top you can nail the board flat for framing.
  • To protect plants from moles and weeds will become a net nailed to the bottom of the structure.

After installing the finished product can be filled with soil:

  1. The first layer 10 cm high is a waterproof material. It consists of branches, foliage, tree bark, sawdust, other similar substrates.
  2. Then put a layer of compost, manure, allowed the use of other organic substances.
  3. Next is a layer of waterproof material.
  4. Then organics are laid again.
  5. The last fifth layer of 10 cm is made from good garden soil.

Layers do not need to be mixed. The finished structure is abundantly moistened.

It is better to leave it for a few days until the layers settle. If the plants will be planted later, the bed should be covered with black polyethylene.

Tip! It is best to make an object at the end of the summer. A bed built until autumn before spring is covered with dark material so that in spring the soil is thoroughly warmed.

The made construction is allowed to be used as a greenhouse. For this purpose, plastic arcs from pipes are attached to the box.

Conclusion

The process of building high beds is clearly described in detail. Nothing complicated, he is not. The object will increase the yield, will be an excellent decoration of the area, it looks original.

Watch the video! How not to make mistakes in natural agriculture

Warm beds: when not to do without them?

Warm beds are distinguished by such features:

  • The presence of a capital fence - boards of boards, slate, plastic, brick and other building materials,
  • Insulated ridges are more often above the surface of the garden (high beds), so they warm up faster in early spring,
  • Special multilayered laying. The bottom can be covered with straw, dry foliage, mowed grass, etc. The upper layers consist of nutrient soil for the crop that will grow in the garden,
  • Warming around the frame outside is carried out using sawdust, substrate of dry hay, etc.,
  • For high ridges, a frame is constructed in order to cover the plantings with warming material in case of a decrease in temperature.

In regions with high soil moisture it is especially important to create high ridges, as the only way to grow crops whose roots are prone to rot from excess moisture. Also, warm beds are used by gardeners in areas of harsh climate, where spring comes late, and the land does not have time to warm up for the planting season.

And two more arguments in favor of the beds with sides:

  1. they are convenient to maintain,
  2. plants are well protected from weeds.

Thus, high beds are an improved place “with all the comforts” for growing different crops. How to make warm beds quickly and professionally, read right now.

Professional warm beds for the whole garden

It is better to equip high ridges in autumn. So all the components of the soil completely perepret and become an ideal substrate for plants. But if it is spring in the yard, and you don’t want to wait until autumn, feel free to start building warm ridges today! So, we present to your attention warm beds with your own hands step by step production.

Materials that will be needed for work: edged board (slate, concrete beams, etc.) 150 mm wide, 8 mm rods for a shelter frame, a wooden plank or metal wire for connecting arches, metal corners, 5 cm roofing screws, a drill or a screwdriver , antimicrobial agents for working wood, rope and blocks for marking, meter, shovel, covering fabric.

I. Making the markup

The optimal size for a warmed bed is 6x1 m or 5x0.8 m. The distance between the ridges can be chosen at your discretion. To save space in a small area, the width of the rows is selected from 50 cm. To describe, we chose a high ridge with sides, the dimensions of which are: 520x80x30 cm. We take our tape measure and measure the size of the flowerbed on the prepared soil. Perimeter is denoted by wooden pegs and rope.

There are two ways to prepare the platform for the ridges: with the removal of the top layer of soil and installation of the frame directly to the ground:

  1. For the first option, you need to remove the top layer of earth with a depth in the bayonet of a shovel. In doing so, take into account the fact that the height of the sides should be proportionally increased to the depth of the trench. This method is recommended to use for additional insulation of the bottom and protection of plants from excess moisture.
  2. A less laborious way to install ridges is to install the frame directly on the ground. It is not necessary to dig and carefully clean the ground from weeds. You can pre-cover the area with waterproofing material in the fall so that all weeds re-cut, and in the spring to install the beds on the finished surface.

Ii. We bring down the frame

Wood or other material for the frame is better to treat with an antiseptic to avoid the possibility of infection of your plants. The metal corners should protrude 20-30 cm over the sides. These protrusions will be buried in the ground for the stability of the frame.

To make it easier to collect the beds and so that they are all the same, you need to make a template for each part. For narrow sides (width of the bed), you can create a pattern directly on the work bench. We fill the lower bar of the beam parallel to the plane. We put two perpendicular planks on top of it, the distance between which should be our sidewall (in our case, 80 cm). They are also nailed to the table. Now, from the inside to the planks we put the corners and impose the sidewall boards on top. The detail is connected with screws directly on the workbench. So you can bring down the right amount of side boards quickly and as accurately as possible. We offer to get acquainted with the master class:

To the finished side boards fasten the long boards of the longitudinal sidewalls. This can be done on a wooden floor in the workshop (garage) or in any convenient room. If you work alone, it is better to make the same pattern for the long sidewalls as for the short slats, but already on the floor of the room. Along the length of the longitudinal sides also need to nail a few segments of a corner or metal profile. Make a frame for high beds can be of different materials:

Iii. Install beds and prepare the frame for shelter

Now finished frames need to turn the corners down and set them on the place prepared for the beds. The profile goes deep into the ground until the frame board “sits down” on the ground. Further we will work with metal rods of 8 mm. To bend them quickly and efficiently, we offer the following method:

We make a blank for bending arches under the shelter. On a wooden base apply a drawing of the desired circle (semicircle) under the arc with a pencil. Drive 2/3 nails or self-tapping screws in increments of 5-6 cm along the line. To fix the arc, drive 2 more nails at the ends of the semicircle next to the line. Set the end of the rod between the nails of one side of the arc on and begin to bend it towards the other side, starting the second end between the nails. Then we turn the workpiece and repeat the bend, changing the ends of the arch in some places.

On each ridge you need to install 3-4 arches. The edges of the rods should be deepened into the ground and fastened to the sides of the beds with staples. The arcs are joined at the top with a 3 mm metal bar, fishing line or wooden plank. From the top of the bed it will be possible to cover with foil or lutrasil:

Iv. Filling beds

The bottom of the beds can be covered with dry branches, leaf litter, conifer or straw. A layer of sand falls asleep on top. On the sand lay out rotted manure or other organic humus. The top layer is 20 cm - fertile soil or peat ready mix.

Master classes on the construction of warm beds do it yourself

If your ridges were prepared in autumn, then the soil should be dug up in spring. The beds are ready, which means it's time to plant your favorite plants! We wish you a great harvest!

High beds pros and cons

The main advantages of high beds before the classic are as follows:

- the ability to equip the garden in areas not suitable for farming,
- digging and weeding is replaced by a slight loosening of the soil,
- it is convenient to work with high beds, because they are elevated above the ground,
- warming up of high beds happens faster, than usual,
- it is easier to remove weeds in a limited space,
- equipping a high bed provides good drainage,
- vegetables and berries ripen faster in high beds, which is important for regions with a cold climate,
- the high bed is easily mounted and understands in case of need,
- beds in case of frost can be protected by covering with agrofiber or tarpaulin.

The disadvantages of high beds

A high bed requires frequent watering and reinforced mineral dressings. Such a pest as a medvedka loves to settle in the high beds, will have to follow her and fight.

The material for the beds - from which to make high beds

High bed - This is a frame of a certain size. The inner part of the frame is filled with compost, soil, fertilizers. The shape of the frame can be different, most often there is a high bed of rectangular shape.

Bed making material - boards, slate, plastic, branches and others.

Tree - the most affordable, convenient to install and fairly inexpensive material. To build a garden you need a bar, plank, or small logs.

Main disadvantage wood is its fragility, which requires additional protective treatment.

Twigs and vine - original, cheap material. The woven walls of high beds look attractive, and the shape of the beds themselves can be any.

Such a framework has a very short lifespan and you need to be able to weave a vine.

Brick and stone - durable, reliable material for beds. But such beds are difficult to dismantle and a lot of material and time is spent on construction.

Plastic frame - alternative to wood. Plastic is easy to install and disassemble, durable, durable.

But some types of plastic have in their composition of harmful substances, they can not be used in the garden.

WPC beds - a framework for beds from a wood and polymeric composite. The beautiful look, durable material, is connected with the help of connecting elements. The disadvantage is very expensive stuff.

Metal - durable, convenient material for creating beds. You can easily change the appearance of the frame by painting in any color. For the assembly of such a framework, one must have the skills of a welder; the material is sufficiently expensive to protect the surface from corrosion.

Slate - budget option for making beds. Install such a bed quickly, slate is durable, you can paint the surface in any color. The disadvantage is the fragility of the material, care must be taken when assembling.

Summer residents use for construction of high beds plastic bottles, old plastic boxes.

Sizes of high beds and row-spacing

Each gardener chooses the desired size and shape of high beds independently.

There are also optimal sizes at which the bed will be the most efficient:

- width of a bed is 90-120 cm,
- the height of the beds from the surface of the earth is 15-50 cm.

Bed height depends on where the soil will be poured - if you are right on fertile soil, then a height of 15-20 cm is enough, this is enough for a good harvest. If the plot is not suitable for farming, the bed is raised by 30 cm. Warm beds are made even higher up to 50 cm by adding compost.

The width of the beds they make it so that 2 rows of plants fit - it will be convenient to process, plants will get enough sun and air.

The length of the high beds It does not matter and is limited by the size of the site. Common beds with a length of 1.5-3 meters.

A convenient row spacing of at least 45-50 cm, do not make a smaller distance, it will be inconvenient to move between the beds and process.

High beds from the boards with their own hands

Inexpensive and convenient option to manufacture a frame for high beds.

For work you will need:

Roulette
Spade
Screwdriver
Hand saw on wood or jigsaw
Building level
Boards size 50x200 mm
Bar 50x50 mm
Self tapping screws
Construction grid
Primer

To determine the size of the frame. Trim the boards to size and cover with all sides antiseptic impregnation (you can use waste oil).

On the one hand, we recommend upholstering the boards with a film - so harmful substances will not penetrate the soil and the frame will last longer.

Also cut the timber length of 50 cm and process the impregnating agent.

Boards and timber lay out to dry.

Choose the sunny location of the high bed, it should shine at least 5 hours a day.

It is necessary to mark the boundaries of the beds, remove the branches, stones, rhizomes of perennial plants. Dig the ground together with the grass, if the dense layer of turf around the perimeter is removed, in order to conveniently expose the frame.

We collect the frame beds

After drying, the boards are knocked into shields, interconnected in bars. The height of the shields is the height of the bed. In the center of the long sides of the frame additionally strengthened with transverse bars.

Upon completion, you can paint the frame from the outside.

Transfer the finished frame to the installation site. The design should be as smooth as possible, the corners should be at the same level.

At the end of the installation of the frame, pour soil around the perimeter of the walls so that there are no gaps left.

How to fill a high bed

The bottom of the frame is closed with a construction mesh, nailing to the walls of the frame. The grid is needed to protect against moles and mice. Then lay a geotextile that does not allow weeds to germinate.

Filling the beds further in the following sequence:

- drainage in the form of bark, small branches, leaves, large shavings,
- a layer of fertilizers: compost or rotted manure, bird droppings,
- grass, fallen leaves, bark, small branches: creating a water-permeable layer,
- a layer of organic matter that is supplemented with mineral fertilizers,
- a fertile layer of land, the composition of which depends on the type of plants that you plan to grow on the beds. The minimum layer thickness is 10 cm.

When filling, the thickness of each layer is about 10 cm, no need to mix between them.

When a high bed is filled it is necessary to spill well with water and leave for several days to shrink layers.

It is better to cover the bed with black agrofibre or polyethylene at this time to ensure the best heating of the bed.

The beds should be made at the end of the summer or in the autumn - thus the layers will melt well until spring and there will be enough nutrients for the plants in the soil. This bed left covered until spring.

When installing the beds in spring, a month before planting, spill the beds several times with water.

High beds can be easily turned into a greenhouse by installing above the arc frame, which you can fix on the frame walls with screws or bolts.

A film or special agrofibre is attached to the arcs on top.

How to care for high beds

When sprouting plants appear on a bed it is good to shed water and to mulch. Weeds that make their way through the layer of mulch are immediately removed.

When the entire crop has been harvested, the high bed is loosened and sowed with green manure. Replace damaged sections on the bed.

Before the first frosts, they mow all the vegetation on the beds, spread them evenly over the whole bed, sprinkle them with a layer of earth and cover the winter with black covering material.

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