Lilies are very showy, often fragrant flowers that are valued for their large and colorful flower.
The petals of the indoor flower are often funnel-shaped and sit on top of a tall, erect stem.
The most common are the following types of indoor plants: Arabic, Eastern hybrids or royal, dwarf, and gold-plated lilies.
Color can be the most diverse from snow white to purple.
Often home lilies include hippeastrum and amaryllis, which not only resemble them externally, but also require the same care.
How to plant a home lily and care for it (photo)
Lily (lat. Lilium) is a genus of plants of the Liliaceae family, a perennial plant that grows from bulbs. They grow very well at home. However, first you need to make the right fit.
The choice of bulbs for planting must be treated very carefully and carefully. First you need to examine them. The bulbs should be healthy, hard, rot-free, moss, brown spots and live roots. The size should be average, but not less than 3 cm.
It is recommended to plant the bulbs in early spring, as in this case it is time to bloom just in June - August. But it is also necessary to distinguish the types of lilies. If it blooms from December to May, and the rest of the time is resting, then it is hippeastrum, and if it has a rest period in the winter, then it is Amaryllis. Consider it! Since, as a general rule, planting and transplanting plants should be done only during the rest period.
For one bulb, select the middle pot. Too much to take is not necessary, as the lily simply may not bloom. Also the pot should be deep. This is due to the fact that this flower has a very developed root system.
Soil mixture is better to use special. At the bottom do not forget to put drainage. Onion gently insert in the middle and cover with earth, but only half. Those. you will have a pot filled with earth to the middle. And when the stems outgrow the edge of the pot, you can fill the soil. It is also good to use river sand, which by its properties will improve the condition of the soil.
In the first year of life lilies do not bloom. They gather all the strength to reach the peak of flowering in the next 2-4 years. At this time, you can prepare the flower for reproduction.
Transplantation can be done every three years. Pre-need to cut flowers. This must be done so that all the power remains in the bulb, and not spent on the flower. Digging should be done very carefully so as not to damage the head.
Tip:Before planting, disinfect bulbous heads in a solution of potassium permanganate. This will prevent the occurrence of pests and plant infection by diseases.
Care for home lily (photo): lighting, watering, temperature control
In order for the lily to feel comfortable in the home, she needs to provide high humidity. That is, moist soil and moist air. Water the plant regularly, but do not overfill it. They like wet cleaning and leaves. Wipe them from time to time with a damp cloth or spray them. Watering should be reduced only during the rest period.
Before the first shoots appear, the lily needs to be kept in a cool dark place, and then taken to a balcony or windowsill. In the summer try to provide this flower with fresh air.
The main difficulty in caring for home lily is a lack of light, as a result of which a plant with too early growth can stretch (up to 2 m) and lose its decorative effect. It is best to put it on the window sill or balcony. But avoid exposure to direct sunlight.
In winter, the average temperature for a flower should be + 16ºС. Watering at this time is necessary to reduce, but not to allow drying.
Conclusion:during flowering lily loves heat and light. In the period of rest - cool and partial shade.
When the first flowering arrow appears, move the plant pot to the balcony and gradually increase the watering. This will bring your darling to abundant blooms. When the flowers appear, make sure that the stem does not break. To do this, you can tie it to the stick. Periodically also loosen the ground.
Some types of lilies can bloom a whole year. To prolong this period, remove dried and wilted flowers, as well as yellow leaves. This will prevent energy consumption for seed production.
Care for home lily (photo): dressing and pests
In the period of growth and development of the flower it must be fertilized. But this can not always be done. If your plant is young, or you have recently transplanted it, or it is sick, then you should not use top dressing. Also, all must comply with the measure. The first dressing should be done before the start of growth, the second - during the period of bud formation, and another - during the period when the plant has faded.
It is recommended to feed amaryllis with mineral fertilizers. These include nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and other elements. With that, for decorative flowering more phosphorus is required. It is necessary to carry out the specified procedure 2 times a month. For hippeastrum recommend alternating mineral fertilizers and organic fertilizers. The latter include peat, manure, various composts, etc.
Experienced growers periodically add wood ash to the soil, which is characterized by a high content of trace elements.
Always a great way to purchase complex fertilizer for lilies.
Improper care of this indoor flower can cause disease and pest damage. Consider the main ones:
• yellow leaves.
The reasons may be as follows:
1) dry air in the room. To save the situation will help a humidifier or a tray filled with wet clay.
2) Burn. If the plant is constantly under the influence of sunlight, then the leaves can get burned. The way out of this situation may be moving the pot to another place.
3) Lack of nutrients. Feed your flower with fertilizers that contain potassium and iron.
• Brown spots on leaves, which subsequently turn yellow and die. This indicates that the plant is affected by bacterial rot. Causes of excessive overmoistening of the soil or damage to the bulb. The plant in this case must be treated with a fungicide.
• Fusarium - This is a dangerous disease for plants, which is expressed by the defeat of the bulb microscopic fungus. It first turns brown, and then breaks apart. The main feature is that the eye is not visible, only in some cases the leaves will begin to turn yellow. Unfortunately, the plant is likely to die. Only prophylactic procedures will help to avoid the disease, namely, the treatment of the bulbs in the base solution.
• Insect infestation (flies, aphids, beetles) - use special tools to combat them.
Storage conditions and care for home lily bulbs (photo)
If you bought bulbs in autumn, i.e. long before you put them in the ground, then the conditions for storage will be as follows. It is necessary to store in a cool place (cellar, pantry, loggia, lower shelf of the refrigerator). Initially, heads should be inspected for damaged or rotten places and carefully removed. Then the bulbs are dipped in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 30 minutes, then dried and put in a container with sawdust or peat. It can also be a plastic bag with holes. If the sprouts on the bulb continue to grow, then it is better to plant them in pots and keep them in a cool and lighted place.
Bulb storage rules:
1) The place should not be too dry. From this bulbs can wrinkle and dry out.
2) Also, it should not be very wet, because the bulbs can be affected by mold, rot or, on the contrary, start growing prematurely.
3) The temperature should be moderate. Since low temperatures will lead to freezing of the heads, and high temperatures will lead to premature growth.
4) It is advisable that the storage place is well ventilated. This will prevent the bulbs from becoming moldy and not sore.
With proper and constant care home lily will delight you with its flowering and fragrance for a long period of time. A photo of flowers will be admired by your friends!
Prerequisites and time
The rest period of Gloxinia is January and the beginning of February. Therefore, the most The best time to plant or transplant a plant is the end of February., at this time, tubers are usually awakened. However, it is worth paying attention to some details if you intend to plant it during this period. Since he does not always wake up in February, sometimes this process can be delayed until May.
A distinctive sign of awakening - the buds are formed on the tuber. Also, if the awakening process does not start for a long time, you can wake him up by an artificial method.
Things are easier with planting seeds, since they can be planted at any time, but it is much more difficult to grow a strong plant from them. But, when growing seeds at home, you can create unusual hybrids or enjoy the view of rare varietal specimens.
Although seeds can be planted at any time, it is necessary to take into account the temperature, humidity and illumination of the environment in which the cultivation takes place. therefore when landing in the autumn-winter time, it is worth thinking about additional lighting, since the light day of this plant is 12-14 hours, and the temperature is 20-24 ° C.
In order for your gloxinia to bloom all year round, you can arrange a shelving for them or a warm shelf by organizing lighting for 14 hours a day. Why gloxinia does not bloom and how to make her release the buds, learn from our article.
Preparation: primer and pot
Gloxinia is not very demanding on the composition of the substrate, so there should be no problems with the choice. It is better to give preference to a light soil with a sufficient amount of nutrients that will pass moisture and air well. Peat based substrates are excellent. or the soil that is used for planting violets.
Also, you can independently prepare the soil by mixing 1 part of the soil, taken from under any tree (except oak), peat (with a low degree of acidity) and 0.5 parts of sand, you can add manure or humus. Before planting, the soil should be disinfected with boiling water or a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
When using too dense soil there is a risk of plant rotting., as it can provoke moisture retention in the soil and lack of air.
The choice of a pot depends on the size of the tuber:
- The diameter of the pot should be 4-6 cm wider than the tuber itself.
- The height should be calculated on 3-4 cm of the drainage layer, the soil with a completely covered tuber.
- A mandatory factor is the presence of drainage holes to prevent stagnant water.
- You can choose the material to your taste, there are no restrictions here.
- The color of the pot is preferably light so that gloxinia does not overheat in the sun.
It is better to start planting small tubers in not too wide vessels.so that the flower does not begin to build up the root system, since it will postpone the flowering of gloxinia at a later date. However, it is not necessary to overdo it; a vessel that is too tight (less than 9 cm) will not be beneficial to the plant. It can begin to wither and shed the leaves, and the soil will constantly dry out.
How to plant?
Now consider the question of how to properly plant the tuber of such a room flower as gloxinia. As mentioned above, it is important not to miss the awakening of the tuber, which begins with the end of February. His sign - the emergence of new shoots. Step-by-step instructions will help you understand how to plant tubers.
- As much as possible to clear a tuber from the old dried-up roots, leaving threads of the largest. Then new ones will grow from them.
- Determine where the tuber is the bottom and the top, so as not to plant it upside down (a small depression is in the place where the future sprouts appear - this is the top, on the opposite side there is a bulge - bottom, this side should be planted in the soil).
- Check the tuber for damage, rot, for this it can be washed. If damage is present, carefully cut them out and treat these places with charcoal or treat with a mixture of fungicide and “Kornevina”, leaving the tuber to dry for a day. This operation will help heal damage.
- Preparing a place. At the bottom of the pot lay drainage of foam 1-3 cm and poured on top of the prepared soil.
- Make a recess in the ground and put the tuber there.
- We fall asleep by 2/3, leaving the top of the tuber on the surface so that the soil does not get on the shoots.
- Water the soil around the tuber. Make sure that the water does not fall on the top of the tuber, where there is a concavity.
- After some time, when the tuber sprouts grow, it can be sprinkled with fresh substrate.
The normal rest period of gloxinia is 3-4 months. (about the features of wintering Gloxinia can be found here). However, some plants need more time to start a new growing season.
How to wake a tuber if it shows no signs of activity for a long time?
- The washed, inspected and dried tuber is put in a tight-fitting bag and a slightly moist peat substrate is added.
- A closed bag is kept warm (under diffused sunlight or phytolamp). It is important to remember about the light and temperature necessary for the normal development of the plant (see above).
- After about 14 days, drops appear on the inner surface of the film, and on the tubers there are kidneys ready to grow. This indicates that it is ready for planting.
We offer to watch a video about planting gloxinia tubers:
How to plant seeds?
- Seeds are planted on the surface of wet and loose soil. They do not need to go deep into the ground. There is no need to choose any particular substrate. You can use peat tablets.
- The soil must be sterilized.
- The capacity is preferably shallow, and the soil layer is up to 3 cm, since the seedlings swoop in the process of growth.
- After the seeds are evenly distributed over the ground, they are sprayed from a spray bottle and the container is tightly covered with a film so that moisture does not evaporate and placed in a warm, bright place.
Already after 7-10 days, small shoots start to be seen on the ground surface. Further actions are regular watering and, if necessary, picks.
Read more about how to grow gloxinia at home from seed, read here.
We offer you to watch a video about growing a flower with seeds:
How to care after transplant?
For proper care after transplanting the plants, the following recommendations should be taken into account:
- Gloxinia is a plant of a long daylight, therefore, to obtain a strong, abundantly flowering plant, it is necessary to provide good lighting in diffused light. But do not expose it to direct sunlight, the flower may overheat.
- During the germination of the tuber, the air temperature should be slightly above 25 degrees, to accelerate the growth of young shoots. But do not reach 28, as the plant ceases to grow.
- Need increased humidity.
- Produce watering need warm water. Be sure to monitor the uniformity of irrigation so that all parts of the root receive their portion of moisture.
- The room where gloxinia grows should be regularly aired so that fungal diseases do not form. But you can not allow strong drafts. About diseases and pests of Gloxinia, as well as methods of dealing with them, read here.
- When the flower is rooted (15-20 days), you can make feeding. Before flowering, it is better to use those that contain nitrogen.
To learn how to properly transplant and grow Gloxinia, read here, and from this article you will learn how to properly water and feed the plant.
Video instructions for the care of gloxinia:
To grow a strong and healthy gloxinia, you need to put a lot of effort, but the result is worth it. Do not forget to pay due attention to the plant.so that this southern flower could please the eyes of others and yours for a very long time. These recommendations and a step-by-step guide will help you plant and care for the plant properly, and Gloxinia will surely give you a lot of lush flowers.
Rules for the care of indoor plants
Success in growing flowers at home does not require any hard work or high skill. However, you should follow the rules for the care of indoor plants. Remember that extremes in irrigation, nutrition, etc. can destroy plants. Do not forget also that there is a period of rest, as a rule, in winter, when much less water, food and heat are required. Remove dried leaves and wilted flowers and watch out for pests and diseases. Sympathize with the poor open-air gardeners who have to work in the wind and rain to dig holes, hoe weeds and mow lawns!
Before you take care of indoor flowers, watch them. Spend a few minutes every few days, carefully looking at the leaves, stalks and compost. Touching the compost, you will understand when watering is required.The appearance of the foliage will tell you that there is something wrong with irrigation, temperature, lighting, nutrition or humidity. Some people grow indoor plants for many years, in fact, without even looking at them and not bothering to find out what the leaves can tell them.
Caring for indoor plants: temperature
Most of the indoor plants came to us from the warm regions of the world. This has led many people to the erroneous belief that these plants need a temperature higher than normal room temperature. In fact, few plants will develop well in normal room conditions at a temperature above 24 ° C.
Almost all indoor plants will be suitable for a temperature of 13-24 ° C. Some of them grow quite successfully in rooms that are a bit cool in terms of human comfort. There are exceptions to this general rule for the care of indoor plants - many flowering pot plants need a maximum temperature of 16 ° C in winter, and some heat-loving varieties require a minimum of 16 ° C.
Most plants are able for a short period to withstand temperatures a little higher or lower than the one they prefer. The real enemy is excessive temperature fluctuations. For most plants, a temperature drop of 3-6 ° C at night is useful, but a sharp cooling at 11 ° C can cause harm or cause death. It may be necessary to move pots from window sills in frosty weather.
Cacti and succulents are the exception. Large fluctuations in temperature are not a problem for them, because in their desert homeland they adapted to hot days and cold nights.
How to care for home colors: light mode
There are two aspects of lighting. The first is the duration. Almost all plants require 12–16 hours of daylight or sufficiently strong artificial light to maintain active growth. Shorter duration of illumination will slow down the synthesis of nutrients, and that is why the dormant period of deciduous plants in winter is not disturbed by bright but short sunny days.
The second aspect is the intensity of the light regime - unlike duration, the need for it in different plants is different. Some species thrive on a sunny window sill, but quickly decline in a shady corner, others will grow in a light shade, but they cannot survive under direct sunlight.
When you go from the sunny window to the corner of the room, you will pass to the shadow of about 2.5 m. Walking back to the window, you may not notice much change, but the light intensity over this short distance will fall by about 95%.
The leaves and stems of plants on the windowsill lean to the glass. To prevent one-sided growth, it is necessary to turn the pot from time to time. At a time, make only a small turn. Do not turn a pot with a flowering plant when it is in the buds.
A flowering plant will suffer if it is moved from its place with recommended lighting to shady. The quality and quantity of colors depends on both the duration and the intensity of the lighting. Without adequate lighting, the foliage can grow beautifully, but flower decoration will inevitably disappoint.
The leaf plant can be suddenly transferred from its ideal position to a shady place without negative consequences. It will survive, but will not develop. Move him back to the lighted area for about a week every 1-2 months to allow him to recuperate.
The plant should not be suddenly transferred from a shady place to a sunny window sill or to an outdoor garden. Let it acclimatize for several days, moving it to a brighter place every day.
Cultivation and care of indoor flowers: air humidity
When you turn on the radiator that warms up cold air in winter, it becomes comfortable in the room, but the amount of water vapor in the air decreases. The air becomes "dry", that is, the relative humidity of the air falls, so growing and caring for indoor flowers in such conditions is very difficult.
As a rule, indoor plants need less warm air and more moist air than you think. Because of the central heating in the midst of winter, the air acquires the relative humidity of the Sahara desert. Plants are rarely able to grow normally in such conditions - many decorative leaves and most flowering plants will suffer if the humidity around the leaves is insufficient. You can avoid problems by finding a damp place for your plants, for example, in the kitchen or in the bathroom.
You can use a humidifier to increase the relative humidity throughout the room. However, it is much more common to use methods that create a wet microclimate around plants, while the atmosphere in the rest of the room remains dry, as before.
There are three main ways to increase the humidity around the plants. They are described on this page. For plants that originated from the jungle, these methods may not be enough to ensure their active growth in centrally heated rooms.
Such plants will take advantage of the humid atmosphere of the garden under the glass. A useful way to keep phalaenopsis in bloom for many months is the orchidarium. Place a 5-centimeter layer of expanded clay on the bottom of a regular glass aquarium and place pots on it. Pour water to cover the lower half of the expanded clay layer - do not cover the entire layer. It is necessary to ensure that the water level in the lower part of the orchidarium is maintained approximately in the middle of the claydite level.
Spraying when growing pot plants
Sprinkle with warm water in the morning so that the leaves dry before dark. Do not spray in bright sunlight. Spraying gives more than a temporary increase in moisture. It cools on hot sunny days, prevents the spread of the red spider mite and reduces the accumulation of dust on the leaves.
In plants grown in potted groups and indoor gardens, the humidity around the leaves is increased. The best way to increase the humidity is to use a pebble tray. Make sure that there is enough space between the plants to avoid their being affected by gray mold.
Using a double pot when growing home flowers
When growing home flowers, it is best to purchase a double pot. This will ensure the constant soil moisture required for good plant growth. True, this recommendation does not apply to cacti - they do not need constant soil moisture.
Place the pot in an external waterproof container and fill the space between them with wet compost. Keep this material completely and constantly wet, so that water always evaporates from its surface, increasing the relative humidity of the air.
Top dressing of houseplants by nutrients
Top-feeding of houseplants with nutrients is necessary to maintain a sufficient amount of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in the soil with a small number of trace elements.
In the garden, fertilizers are usually used to replenish the nutrient reserves in the soil, but even in their absence, the plant can continue to use the nutrients from the soil, spreading new roots. Indoors, the situation is completely different. Compost in a pot contains a limited amount of nutrients and is constantly depleted by plant roots and leaching through drainage holes. During the active growth of plants it is necessary to feed them regularly as soon as the nutrients are exhausted. Cacti are able to survive without additional feeding for a long time, but vigorous decorative-leaf and flowering plants can seriously suffer if they are not fed.
Composts contain enough nutrients for about 2 months after transplantation. After that, the vegetative plants will need to be fed. Regular feeding is required in the growing and flowering season - from spring to autumn for the decorative leaf and most flowering plants, and in winter for winter-flowering species. During the dormant period, fertilizing should be reduced.
Fertilizers for houseplants are almost always complex, containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. There are universal supplements, but there are also special preparations for cacti, citrus and ferns. It is better to feed orchids with the preparations recommended for them.
What are fertilizers for indoor plants?
The question of what kind of fertilizer for indoor plants can be purchased in specialized stores, is of concern to many plant growers. As a rule, all fertilizers consist of three basic components: potassium, nitrogen, phosphorus. In addition, microelements are present in all fertilizers for house plants. However, it is necessary to take into account the fact that each individual plant needs different ratios of these elements. Therefore, when purchasing fertilizers for indoor plants, carefully study the instructions and draw a conclusion - is this preparation suitable for your plants?
Top dressing for indoor plants: tablets and granules
There are slow-acting fertilizers for feeding indoor plants in tablets and granules. They are placed on the surface or buried in compost, where they slowly release their nutrients over a certain period of time. This is convenient, but the fertilizer supply cannot be adjusted according to the season, and their distribution in the compost is uneven. These problems do not occur with liquid dressings.
What kind of fertilizer to feed indoor plants
There is a general opinion that the most effective way of feeding indoor plants in pots is the use of liquid fertilizer. Watering and food is carried out in one operation - the recommended amount of fertilizer is added to the water and applied when watering. Such fertilizers for indoor plants can avoid overfeeding, and if necessary, the amount of fertilizers can be reduced or eliminated. In order to correctly determine what kind of fertilizer to feed indoor plants, carefully read the instructions and follow the manufacturer's instructions.
Houseplant fertilizer with dropper bottle
Bottle droppers are a kind of auto-feed that has appeared in recent years. In order to produce fertilizer room flowers in this way, you need to insert a plastic bottle with a diluted fertilizer neck in the compost. Original, but it may look ugly in the composition and, as in the case of tablets, the distribution of nutrients in the pot is uneven.
Polishing the leaves of indoor plants for growing and caring for flowers
Dust spoils the appearance of foliage and blocks leaf pores. It forms a screen that reduces illumination, and in some industrial areas there is a possibility of containing chemicals that damage plants. Therefore, dust, when it becomes visible on the leaves, must be removed. Usually the leaves are washed with clean water with a syringe or sponge. Wash the plants early in the day so that they dry before dark. If the foliage is very dirty, wipe it lightly with a soft cloth before washing. If you do not do this, then when the water dries, it will be difficult to wash off the stains. Do not forget when you wash the leaves support hand. For young foliage it is better to use a syringe, not a sponge. Cacti, succulents and hairy leaves should not be sprayed or washed - use a soft brush to remove dust.
Even pure foliage, as a rule, begins to look dull and faded with age. Many substances are suitable for polishing the leaves of houseplants, but one should be careful about their choice. Olive oil gives shine, but it also collects dust.
It is best to purchase a product designed specifically for plants. Aerosols are easy to use and most convenient. Liquid preparations are used, gently, rubbing leaves soaked in liquid. Popular ready-made polishing cloths.
You should not polish young leaves and never press on the surface of the leaves. Before use, read the label - it will contain a list of plants that do not need to be processed.
How to cut indoor flowers: pruning plants at home
Trimming indoor plants - the process is not as complicated as it may seem at first. The point of growth of the stem is removed by pinching. This is done with the thumb and forefinger or scissors. Trimming is the removal of excess growth. Use a pruner or scissors for this. Purge is the removal of dead leaves, damaged parts, and faded flowers.
Pinching is used to cause branching of bushy and ampelous plants, such as Coleus, Tradescantia, and Pylaea. Pruning is used for some climbers to get the opposite result. Choose one or more main shoots and form them, as required by the design, weak side shoots neatly cut in the place of their separation from the main stem.
The appearance of many plants soon deteriorates if they are not regularly cut and not cleaned. Pruning of indoor plants, such as lianas, ivy and climbing philodendron is produced in spring. At the same time, stems with abnormally small and pale leaves are removed. Always prune branches that are too long and old leafless stems. Removing faded flowers can prolong the flowering period of many species.
Before cutting the indoor flowers, get a good, sharp scissors. Cut the flowering plants with caution - there are no general rules for them. Some, such as fuchsia, geraniums and hydrangeas, form flowers on a new growth. Others bloom on last year's shoots.
Caring for indoor plants and photo molding home plants
When caring for potted flowers, molding plays a decisive role in providing stalks for maximum decorative effect. This is definitely necessary for climbing plants. It is also necessary for domestic plants with long, weak stems (for example, fatsheders), heavy inflorescences (for example, hydrangeas) and brittle stems (for example, balsam).
Do not tie the plant to one peg - use a frame with three or four sticks instead. Pegs should reach the bottom of the pot.
As you can see in the photo, there are many other supports for pot installation when taking care of indoor flowers. For example, tapestries, moss sticks and wire hoops. There are also wire or wood creepers installed outside the pot.
Do not tie the stalks very close to the support. Tie a new growth while it is not too long and bends well. Clinging vines must be tied up frequently, otherwise the antennae will tie the stems together.
What is this flower?
The height of an ornamental plant can be different - up to 5 cm or up to 70 cm. Some subspecies of gloxinia grow in shrubs in the motherland. Basically it is a herbaceous plant, the growing season which begins in the spring and ends in the autumn.
The pedicle can carry one of several buds, and sometimes the whole brush. The appearance of flowers resembles bells. Color they may be different:
Flowering plant from May to September. Seeds ripen in small boxes. They are small, dark and have a slightly elongated shape.
Terms and time for growing
Do not delay with the landing work. To do this immediately after the “sleep” period, at the stage of awakening. If you miss this moment, the shoots will begin to stretch and turn pale due to lack of chlorophyll.
The formation of buds depends on the conditions of the plant in winter. Gloxinia awakens in February-March. If the tubers did not wake up, then for their awakening to set the pot with a flower in a warm and well-lit place.
Soil and Pot Preparation
Before planting plants need to prepare the substrate, drainage, prepare capacity. Gloxinia does not impose special requirements on the composition of the soil mixture.. But for its landing it is better to choose a light, well-air and moisture-permeable soil. It should be a sufficient amount of nutrients. Perfect for this are ready peat based substrates.
If the soil is too dense, the moisture will linger in it, and oxygen will not be able to tread to the roots. This will lead to decay and death of the plant. The size of the gloxinia tank should be 4-6 cm wider in diameter than the planting material. This will allow the flower:
- develop a good root system
- lay a large number of buds,
- to form beautiful foliage without harming the culture.
Buying for gloxinia too large pot should not be. In it the culture will give only leaves and will not form buds. In addition, with a large capacity just to make a mistake with the amount of water for irrigation, and this is fraught with tuber rot.
Как правильно посадить в домашних условиях?
Чаще всего глоксиния размножается клубнями и семенами. Для каждого из этих способов существуют свои особенности. Рассмотрим, как правильно сажать глоксинию клубнем и семенами.
Мероприятия по высадке глоксинии должны осуществляться по определенному плану:
- Выложить дренаж, используя керамзит или пенопласт. Высота слоя – 1-2 см. From above pour out the soil, which should be unconsolidated, but rather loose.
- In the center of the pot, make a depression and place the tuber with the convex side into the ground. Sprinkle lightly with earth. Make sure that 1/3 of the tuber remains above the soil. Soil moisten.
- Create a greenhouse effect by putting a plastic bag on the pot. Install the container in a warm and well-lit place. This will keep the soil moist for a long time.
- Every day a package for 20 minutes to clean for airing the soil.
- As soon as the first 2 leaves are formed, the package should be left only for the night, and after 2-3 days it should be completely removed.
- At first, water the flower very carefully, using a small amount of water. Make sure that the liquid does not fall on the plant. Already this year, Gloxinia will delight everyone with its luxurious and lush flowering.
Watch the video about planting Gloxia tuber:
Planting activities are performed as follows:
- Put small claydite on the bottom of the tank. On top of it lay the soil composition. He preheat in the microwave. Use a wet substrate for planting, but it should not be an excess of moisture. It is better to spray the earth from the spray.
- Cover the container with soil so that it does not reach the edges by 4-5 cm. It is not necessary to condense it. Use nutrient, loose and light soil for gloxinia. From above it to lay down the sifted peat.
- For planting seeds do not need to perform grooves. Planting material to germinate in the light, so do not need to sprinkle it with earth. Just lay on top of the soil, lightly spray it with warm and settled water. If the seeds were yeast-grown, then the drying of the nutrient film should not be allowed.
- For convenience, the seeds are spread out on a sheet of A4 paper folded 2 times. Using a needle, carefully move the seeds to the ground. Spray from the sprayer with a distance of 40 cm.
Watch the video about planting gloxinia seeds:
Care for indoor plants
Contain a gloxinia in a bright place, where there would be no direct sunlight. Light must be diffused.
When breeding gloxinia in the autumn-winter period, keep the pot under a fluorescent lamp at a distance of 40 cm. The distance is determined taking into account the lamp power. The more powerful it is, the farther away the capacity is. Duration of daylight hours is 12-14 hours. If this condition is not observed, the seeds will not germinate.
Contain a container with planting material at a temperature of 22-26 degrees. This has a positive effect on the rate of seed germination. As soon as the first shoots are formed, reduce the temperature to 18-20 degrees.
Do not allow the soil to dry out. Watering is carried out as needed. To do this, use a spray or a pallet. The main plant does not overflow, as this will have a detrimental effect on it.. For irrigation use separated and warm liquid.
The plant responds positively to the fertilizer, so apply them every 10 days. Use for this universal formulations for blooming flowers. During dormancy, fertilizing is not necessary.
Planting gloxinia is a responsible and important process, on the correctness of which the further development of the flower depends. After planting, it is important to give special care to the plant, because at first the flower is very vulnerable to diseases and pests.
The technology of planting and planting indoor plants
When planning planting a flower, first of all you need to decide on the shape and size of the pot. To do this, take into account the size of the culture and the degree of development of its root system: the longer and wider it is, the larger the pot should be.
In addition, you need to consider where you are going to put the flower. For an open terrace or balcony pots are suitable, and for an ordinary city apartment, traditional pots or containers are most often chosen.
Note: Regardless of the type of pot that you are going to plant, there should be drainage holes in the bottom of the pot to drain excess moisture. Under the pot put the pan, which will drain the excess water. Without observance of this condition, water will accumulate near the roots of the flower and the culture may die.
Planting technology includes the selection of a suitable soil (Figure 1). Each type of flower requires its own special soil, which will reflect the natural soil conditions. The easiest way to buy ready-made soil mix in a special store, but much more exciting to cook it yourself.
Classic soil for indoor crops consists of clay-sod land with the addition of a small amount of compost, peat and high-quality sand. It is also advisable to add a small amount of charcoal, which will play the role of organic fertilizer. To simplify the task of planting flowers for the house, we give a step-by-step instruction of this process.
Figure 1. Proper planting of flowers in containers
Sowing or planting indoor plants is carried out as follows:
- Pot preparation includes the manufacture of a layer of drainage (Figure 2). To do this, a layer of expanded clay, broken brick, moss or foam is laid on the bottom of the tank. This layer will provide air to the roots and prevent stagnant moisture in the soil.
- In the pot poured part of the prepared soil. The second part is left to cover the roots of the flower.
- Sapling put in a pot vertically, evenly distributing its roots inside the tank. Roots should not protrude to the surface or be placed too closely. If this does happen, you need to take a larger container.
- The pot is filled to the top the remaining soil mixture and slightly tamped it. After that, the flower must be watered and fed (if necessary), and put on a permanent place.
It is important that the soil itself and the root system must be wet. This will help the earthman to more closely attach to the roots, and make the acclimatization process at a new place faster.
Figure 2. Types of drainage for indoor plants
If you are planting not a seedling, but seeds, the technology will be similar. First, they put a layer of drainage into the pot, then pour the earth (about 2/3 of the volume of the container), scatter the seeds and sprinkle them with a small layer of nutritious grain mixture. Seeds need to be watered, covered with glass and put in a well-lit place.
From the video, you will learn which drainage is best used for indoor plants.
How to plant indoor flowers in a pot
Proper planting of flowers in pots is much easier than planting crops in open ground. But, despite all the simplicity, there are certain rules of landing.
To make your colors comfortable, you need not only to choose a suitable container, but also to prepare a quality primer for flowers. If you already have a pot, check that there are drainage holes in its bottom through which excess moisture will drain from the ground. If there are no such holes, they will have to be made independently.
Further stages of planting in pots will be (Figure 3):
- Laying the drainage layer at the bottom of the tank, and the drainage is not necessary to buy. It can be made independently from brick fragments, small stones or moss collected in the forest.
- Filling the pot with soil mixture: It is advisable to pour a layer of soil, which only half fill the pot. In this case, you can freely place in it a sapling.
- Planting seedlings This is done as follows: a flower with wet roots is placed in a pot strictly vertically, its root system is distributed so that it is freely in the pot and sprinkled the roots with the remaining earth. After that, the soil should be slightly compacted and watered.
At this planting or transplanting indoor flower ends. For successful cultivation will require periodic watering (the frequency depends on the variety), feeding, as well as ensuring optimal temperature and humidity conditions. Some species tolerate the moderate humidity of a regular city apartment, while others require additional moisture, which can be provided by spraying leaves.
The technology of planting potted plants is shown in the video.
It is important not only to know how to plant indoor plants, but also what containers should be used for this. Modern manufacturers offer a wide selection of pots of a wide variety of shapes, sizes and styles, so you can easily select a suitable container (Figure 4).
Figure 4. Types of flower pots
Experienced growers recommend guided not so much by taste preferences, as practical side. First, the pot must be large enough for a particular variety so that the root system of the flower can be freely placed inside. Secondly, there should be drainage holes in the bottom of the tank, through which excess moisture will leave the ground. In addition, the pot should be durable and comfortable.
Since on the modern market there is a wide variety of pots made of various materials, we present the features of clay, plastic and other containers for indoor flowers.
From the point of view of ecology, clay pots are considered the best. They do not emit toxic substances, so they are absolutely safe for human and plant health. However, such containers are easy to beat, and after prolonged use may crack. In addition, they are heavy, so it will be difficult to rearrange pots, especially large ones.
Plastic pots are very light, beautiful and elegant. They are easy to clean and rearrange when necessary. But when buying such a pot, be sure to keep in mind that the plastic used to make it releases harmful substances into the soil and air that can harm not only plants, but also people.
Rules for planting and caring for potted flowers
In the previous sections, we have already discussed the rules for planting crops in pots. Therefore, we dwell on the care of flowers for the home (Figure 5). In this issue should be guided by the characteristics of each class. For example, exotic tropical flowers require intensive watering and hydration, and cacti on the contrary do not tolerate excessive moisture.
Figure 5. The main stages of care for indoor cultures
In addition, home flowerpots require periodic feeding, which is made by irrigating at the root or spraying the leaves. In winter, it is necessary to provide additional lighting to the flowers, and during cultivation, it is necessary to periodically inspect for the presence of pests or symptoms of diseases, in order, if necessary, to carry out preventive spraying.
Room flower Gloxinia: planting and care
Gloxinia belongs to one of the most beautiful and unusual indoor flowers. Under natural conditions, this culture is found in Brazil, but if properly planted gloxinia tubers and to provide them with proper care, it will be possible to grow it at home (Figure 6).
In general, the indoor flower Gloxinia is distinguished by its ease of planting and care, but some features of cultivation of this exotic culture still need to be taken into account.
The basic rules for the care of gloxinia are:
- Good lighting without exposure to direct sunlight, from which the delicate leaves and petals of gloxinia can get burned. The best place for a flower is a rack with artificial lighting or diffused sunlight.
- No drafts is also an important condition for successful cultivation. In this case, gloxinia will bloom profusely, forming neat rosettes.
- During flowering need to provide moderate but regular watering. Flowering period lasts from March to October. After that, the leaves of the gloxinia begin to gradually turn yellow and fall off, and a period of rest begins. At this time, watering is reduced.
When gloxinia ottsvela, the bulb can not dig, and leave in moist soil. But in order to preserve viability, the pot with the onion should be moved to a dark, cool room and stored at a temperature not higher than +10 degrees until the next spring.
Potted flowers Balsam: planting, care and photo
Balsam can be called a universal plant, because it successfully blooms in the conditions of a city apartment, and in open ground (Figure 7).
Let us dwell on the terms of planting and care for indoor balsamic:
- Penumbra - The best condition for growing balsam. In spite of the fact that the flower tolerates intense illumination, it will grow much better on the shaded eastern and southeast windowsills.
- Watering plays the most important role in the care of balsams, as these flowers are very responsive to intensive watering. You should not wait until the earth com dries. In the summer, the balsams are watered every other day, and in the winter - once every two or three days.
- Under the pot with balsamic Be sure to install the pallet. But the rest of the water from it can not drain. During the day, the roots will absorb this moisture.
- Priming It is better to take a lightweight, which is usually used for indoor flower cultures. If the soil is too dense and oversaturated with nutrients, there will be a lot of leaves on the balsam bush, but few flowers.
If you want to save money, and plan to plant balsam immediately in a large pot, you should immediately clarify that this is not recommended. In such conditions, all the forces of the plant will be directed to the growth and formation of a large bush, and the flowering period will be delayed. Therefore, it is better to choose a compact capacity that fits the size of the root system.
Potted Hydrangea Flowers: Planting Seeds and Care
Indoor hydrangea is a compact perennial shrub that is covered with numerous ball-shaped inflorescences (Figure 8). If suitable growing conditions were created for the hydrangea, it will bloom profusely and continuously for a long time.
Planting and caring for indoor flowers hydrangeas includes such important points:
- Intense but diffused lighting for example, the pot can be placed a few meters from the south window.
- Comfortable temperature for hydrangea is +20 degrees, but she feels good and with a slight decrease or increase in performance. The main thing that the room was not drafts and sudden changes in temperature.
- After flowering there is a period of peace that lasts until about February. At this time, it is better to transfer the flower to a dark, cool place and keep it until the buds wake up. After that, you can return the hydrangea in the usual conditions.
In addition, hydrangeas require quite abundant and frequent watering. In the summer it is carried out more often, in the fall it is gradually reduced, and in winter it will be enough to introduce moisture only once a week. Also, hydrangea should often be sprayed to increase the humidity of the air. Ordinary water jars installed next to a flower pot will help to cope with this task.
What indoor flowers can not be planted at home
Not all indoor plants, even those that look very beautiful, are completely safe. Some of them, especially exotic ones, emit poisonous juice, which can be dangerous to people and animals.
Note: When buying a new flower for the home, be sure to ask if it is poisonous. And, if you have small children or animals at home, it is better to avoid such a purchase.
Since many poisonous varieties are surprisingly beautiful and highly decorative, many still prefer to place them at home. But when caring for such flowers, it is necessary to wear gloves, wash hands thoroughly after all manipulations, and prevent juice from contacting skin and mucous membranes.
So you do not accidentally bought a poisonous flower, we present a list of plants that should not be kept at home (Figure 9):
- Dieffenbachia - A culture with a high decorative value, which is often used for interior decoration. But the juice that is released when you cut leaves or stems is poisonous and can cause poisoning or burns on the skin.
- Bashful mimosa characterized by the fact that its thin leaves are rolled into a tube at the slightest touch. But it is impossible to keep it at home, as it releases into the air toxic substances for the human body that can lead to hair loss and general poisoning.
- Monstera by itself is not dangerous. Harm can cause the juice of this exotic species. When it gets on the skin or eyes, it causes burns, and if accidentally swallowed it is severe poisoning.
- Nightshade - evergreen shrub, which is covered with bright orange fruits. They are poisonous, and can cause serious poisoning, so this flower is not recommended to keep at home, if you have small children or animals that can accidentally eat bright berries.
- Azalea considered one of the most popular indoor plants due to the lush and beautiful flowers. But there is one species that should not be kept at home. This is Simsa's azalea, the leaves of which, when ingested, cause colic and severe cramps.
Among the dangerous poisonous plants is primrose. Если дома находится большое количество этих растений, в период цветения люди и животные могут пострадать из-за токсичных веществ, которые выделяются в атмосферу именно в период цветения. Поэтому, если вы не можете устоять перед красотой примул, лучше держать дома всего один цветок этого вида.
Main features and rules of planting flowers
Beginner growers intensively collect information on how to properly plant and care for flowers at home. This is correct, but it is important to notice the features that will help the plants develop favorably throughout the entire stage of their life.
All technology is divided into several stages, each of which has its own pitfalls.
Planting rules for indoor flowering plants
Planting is necessary prepare properly and collect inventory. First of all, it concerns pots, which should be of a suitable size. The volume of capacity is chosen depending on the type of plant and its root system. If the rhizomes grow a few centimeters, then the usual small pot with a volume of several liters will fit, but there are plants in which the root system reaches several meters in length.
The second question, which is important to solve, concerns the place where the flower pot will be placed. It is important to pay attention not only to the area of the room. The amount of sunlight in the room and the temperature regime is very important. On the balconies, where the temperature regime jumps depending on the time of year, and the sun beats several hours a day, light-loving plants are placed, and instead of pots, it is better to choose pots. For growing flowers in closed rooms, pots are picked up, but in any case, you will have to take care of artificial light if the natural rays of the sun do not make their way through windows or curtains.
Another important rule for preparing inventory relates to the drainage system. Typically, growers choose crushed brick or expanded clay. Their throughput conditions do not delay the liquid for long. Thus, water does not accumulate at the bottom of the pots, and this will protect the plants from the development of fungi, mold or rotting process.
The technology of proper planting includes the selection of the soil. It is diverse and expelled mainly by the amount of clay and fertility. Each type of plant requires a suitable type of soil, so at this stage it is important to make the right choice. Classical indoor plants are undemanding and live in clay-sod land, where they additionally add compost as a useful substance, peat and some sand. In some cases, the soil is additionally fertilized with charcoal or organic matter, but this is not required if the soil already has a high level of fertility.
Planting and planting takes place in several stages:
- First prepare the pot. On the bottom is laid drainage system, consisting of crushed brick, expanded clay, foam or moss. These materials provide good air permeability and do not trap liquid in the ground.
- A layer of already fertilized and mixed soil is placed on the drainage system.
- The plant is placed vertically in a pot with its roots down and only then the remaining soil is filled up. At this time, it is important to ensure that the root system is laid correctly, and the flower is exactly, because later it will determine its development and beauty.
- After the pot has been completely filled with soil, it is placed in a permanent place. The soil is tamped and watered.
One of the features of planting is wetting the soil and root system. This method will allow the earth to stick to the root system, which means that the flower will soon be able to acclimatize and settle down in a new place.
Planting seeds is similar to the technology described above. First, a layer of soil is poured out, the seeds are stacked, which are sprinkled with the remaining fertilized and moistened soil. The only difference is that the surface of the pot is covered with glass or film. This will create a greenhouse effect that helps maintain optimal moisture needed for flower growth from seeds.
Care for flowers at home
With how to plant flowers at home figured out. If you do everything right and take into account the nuances inherent in each type of plant, after a few months you can observe how the flowers are accepted and develop favorably. In the case of the seeds have to wait a little longer, because they evolve from scratch.
Landing - This is only the first stage of growing flowers at home. This is followed by care, which is of no small importance.
It would be desirable, after all, not only that the flowers grow, but also beautifully bloomed, and this requires an individual approach to each type of plant.
For example, exotic flowers, unlike classical types, require regular watering, while cacti are adapted to endure drought for a long time, but they also require a lot of natural light. Another rule of care is regular soil fertilization. Top dressing will be useful to any type of flowers regardless of what climate they are used to.
Sometimes even with constant care, the flowers wither and die. The reason for this is the development of diseases or insects that grind off the root system or green mass. It is especially important to go deeper and take the right actions to avoid the death of flowers. For example, you can use a constant preventive spraying with water with the addition of universal protective drugs that not only protect the flowers from the development of diseases and insects, but also contribute to flowering.
What plants are better not to plant at home?
There are several dozen types of flowers that cannot be planted and grown at home, even if ideal natural conditions are created. The reasons may be different.
Some types of exotic plants emit poisonous juice that enters the air. Such poison is dangerous to animals and people, so flowers with similar qualities should be avoided.
When buying seedlings for cultivation, one should inquire about the characteristics of the plant and ask if it is safe to plant at home.
Poisonous flowers fall on them most often by chance, so it is better to study in advance the list of common poisonous plants:
- Dieffenbachia relatively safe. It is often used to decorate the interior, but the juice that is released when the stem is incised causes severe poisoning or burns on the skin.
- Mimosa bashful has the amazing ability to fold leaves into a tube at the slightest touch. This attracts a lot of flower growers, but the aroma that this plant exudes is dangerous to health. Poisonous odor leads to poisoning of the body. Prolonged toxicosis causes general poisoning and hair loss.
- Monster often used as an ornamental plant at home. She has no poisonous vapors, but the juice causes severe burns when it comes in contact with the skin.
- Nightshade safe until flowering period. Fruits of bright orange color are poisonous and cause severe poisoning. Therefore, it is better not to start such a flower at home if there are animals or children.
- Azalea popular worldwide due to its lush leaves, but there is one species that causes poisoning, cramps and colic in the stomach. This is Alalia Sims.
Planting and caring for flowers on the example of hydrangea
How to plant a hydrangea flower? Many gardeners are asking this question, because this is one of the most popular flowers. Planting and care rules follow the instructions given above in the article, but this type of plant requires some special features. Planting hydrangea should be only after preparing a place with favorable conditions for this plant. They love scattered and constant light, a comfortable room temperature during the flowering period and the absence of drafts.
Even small temperature drops can worsen the condition of the flower. The only time when a flower likes lower temperature comes after flowering.