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One of the most unpretentious shrubs for the garden plot - spirea is not only easy to maintain, but also reproduces very easily. Most often, growers use this method, as cutting green young shoots. About him and talk.

When can I cut the spirea?

Spirea can be propagated by cuttings in spring, summer or autumn, but cuttings taken in summer (in July) are best adapted.

It is best to harvest cuttings in cloudy weather, during rain or immediately after it.

It is necessary to take cuttings only from a healthy uterine bush. To do this, cut off the young shoots of this year with a sharp shears. It is very easy to distinguish them: they will be green and last year’s brown.

If pests are detected on the spirea, the bush must first be treated with intestinal poison of the Aktara type. By harvesting cuttings can proceed no earlier than 3 days after processing.

On the cut young twigs remove the tops. They are not suitable for reproduction for two reasons:

  • contain a lot of water and often just rot in the rooting process,
  • too fragile and break easily.

On the resulting cuttings, remove all the leaves at the bottom, and leave 3-4 things at the top.

Cut the lower cut along an oblique line and lower the blanks into a solution of pink manganese.

Rooting of green cuttings

In order for the branches to form their own root system, they must be planted in a nutrient substrate. To do this, mix in equal parts:

Stir the components thoroughly, over-wring them with your hands to form a crumbly friable mixture.

In a white plastic pot pour a small layer of soil (up to 5 cm) and lightly tamp. Remove each cutting from the solution, shake off excess water and dip it with a lower tip into a growth stimulator, for example, Kornevin. Deal the workpiece into the soil by no more than 1.5 cm, leaving a distance of 3 cm between them so that the leaves do not touch each other. In conclusion, compact the ground near the planted cuttings, ensuring maximum contact with it.

In a liter of boiled water add 1 tsp. garlic infusion and plentifully spray them planting for the purpose of disinfection and disease prevention. Cover the container with an opaque bag on top and place in a shaded place.

Periodically, the package must be removed for airing and moistening the soil. When the cuttings take root and release new leaves, they can be seated in separate containers.

Reproduction of spirea cuttings in spring

Those who are fond of landscape design, are certainly familiar with such an unusual plant as spirea. A beautifully flowering shrub not only decorates any garden with small inflorescences from spring to autumn, but also pleases with unpretentious care. Therefore, it is not surprising that once having seen a spiraea, any gardener will want such a beautiful woman to his site.

Spirea reproduction in the spring - planting cuttings

In general, spirea cuttings root well. However, during the procedure carried out in the spring, a special treatment of the workpieces is recommended, which promotes rapid rooting. Prepared cuttings should first be placed for 4-12 hours in a solution of any biostimulator at your disposal - Appin, Albite, Energen, Zircon and others. In their absence, experienced gardeners advise the use of natural biostimulants, such as aloe juice (3-5 drops in water). Do not interfere and sprinkling the ends of the cuttings root-forming stimulant in the form of powder, for example, Kornevin, Heteroauxin, Root.

After this treatment, the cuttings are placed in a container with wet sand, buried at an angle to a depth of 2-3 cm. Do not forget to spray the cuttings, and then place them under a jar or film.

Care and planting spirea cuttings

When spirea is propagated by cuttings, care and maintenance are reduced to placing the pot in a shady place in the garden, frequent spraying, watering and airing. For winter, pots with cuttings should be carried to the basement or buried in the ground. In the latter case, cover the cuttings with foliage or natural fabric. With the advent of heat, young plants can be transplanted to a permanent place.

Reproduction of apple cuttings

Apple trees can be found in almost every garden. In this case, few people think about the independent reproduction of these trees, limited only by grafting, and in fact they can also be grafted. Read more about reproduction of apple trees in our article.

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Home • Floriculture • How best to propagate the Japanese spirea (meadowsweet)

What is the best way to propagate Japanese spirea?

Beginning of article:

  • Japanese spirea (tavolga), common forms and varieties
  • The best varieties of Japanese spiraea (meadowsweet) for planting

    End of article

    Japanese spirea, like all spireas, reproduces quite easily.

    Only it is necessary to remember that varieties, hybrids and decorative forms should be propagated exclusively vegetatively: by dividing the shrub with green and lignified cuttings, layering.

    Plant is dividedwhen small young bushes appear at some distance from the main one - they are separated from the mother bush along with the roots.

    When landing on the new place the soil is pressed to the roots and watered abundantly.

    Next, you need to make sure that for two weeks the soil of the sapling was wet all the time, and the crown of the bush, cut to 2/3, was not in the sun.

    Spirea growing on the plot: where to start? Planting and Care Rules

    If necessary, apply shading.

    It is also separated and transplanted to the new place of the tap-off plants, which were laid in the soil in the spring of last year. Taking the layering and dividing the bush is carried out in early autumn or early spring, as soon as the soil thaws. Spireas easily tolerate transplantation, it is important not to dry the roots.

    Green cutting plants can be propagated after the young shoots of this year become semi-woody (they must be bent into a ring around a finger without kinks).

    Cuttings cut to a length of not more than 15 cm and planted in a greenhouse under the film at a distance of 5-7 cm in the substrate prepared from a mixture of pure river sand and non-acidic peat in a 1: 1 ratio.

    It is important to regularly moisten the substrate and spray the leaves of the cuttings at least 4-5 times a summer day, and also to protect the cuttings from direct sunlight. In 10-12 days they will take root.

    Rooting lignified cuttings carried out in autumn, in October. The cuttings cut and aged for several hours in water are planted in an inclined position and moisten the soil around them before the onset of frost. Then the cuttings are covered with dry leaves, stems, needles, sawdust, etc., and in the spring everything is cleaned.

    At the end of summer rooted cuttings are shortened by 1/3 to the plants better bush, and planted at a distance of 25-40 cm from each other. All summer the soil is weeded, loosened and moistened.

    Next spring it is also necessary to prune: remove weak and broken shoots “on the ring”, and strongly elongated shorten by 1/3 to cause secondary tillering.

    For the third year Life in the spring, before the start of leaf blooming, the strongest plants can already be planted in a permanent place in the holes prepared from autumn.

    Tatyana Dyakova, Candidate of C.-H. of science

    Beginning of article:

  • Japanese spirea (tavolga), common forms and varieties
  • The best varieties of Japanese spiraea (meadowsweet) for planting
  • Return to Table of Contents - Floriculture

    How to multiply spirea

    By splitting the bush, young spireas multiply, usually at the age of 3-4 years. Share more mature spirea bushes too. But it is rather inconvenient: on thick roots a large earthen clod is formed, which is difficult to dig out and launder.

    Dates of spirea breeding by dividing the bush

    Spirea is unpretentious, she will well tolerate the division of the bush at any time from spring to autumn. The main thing is to choose a moment so that the weather after planting delenok remains cloudy for at least a week, if you had to immediately divide the bush in summer.

    If it is not possible to water the plantings often, it is better to propagate the spirea by division in late August - early September. The soil is heated, and the roots grow well, and the air becomes cool and wet - the plants do not lose a lot of water for evaporation.

    Various breeding options for spirea

    Dig a bush, grabbing about 60% of the crown projection. It's okay if you have to chop off a few roots, going far to the sides. Wash off the roots. Young plants, to wash the soil off the roots, it is convenient to simply put in a bucket or basin with water for an hour. Soaked earth is easily washed off. If possible, straighten the roots.

    It is possible to divide the spirea bush together with the earthy clod, without washing it. But for plants that were planted out of containers at one time, the roots sometimes twist so much that when dividing "blindly" you strongly risk leaving half of the bush almost without roots.

    Cut the bush with shears into 2-3 pieces. Each delenka should have at least 2-3 strong shoots and a good lobule of the roots.

    It is desirable that delenki turned out more or less equivalent.

    Trim the roots: update the fragmented sections (where they are clearly visible), shorten long cord-like roots, trimming them to the length of the rest. After planting, they will begin to branch intensively, providing survival to the plant.

    Dig a hole for planting delenki and put a mound in the middle of the hole. Place the knot on the knoll and distribute the roots so that they are directed more or less evenly in different directions.

    Pour into the hole and water thoroughly in several doses. In hot, dry weather, spiraeus should be watered at least every other day, on rainy and overcast conditions - once a week. It is easier to take root Spirea, divided in late summer and early September. Even if the weather is hot during the day, fog gathers in the evening. And high air humidity in warm soil contributes to plant rooting.

    Description of Japanese Spirea

    Spirea Japanese in landscape design photo

    Spiraea Japanese Spiraea japonica - a representative of the Rosaceae family - migrated to us from Japan and China. The peculiarity of elliptical or ovoid leaves is that when blooming they turn into reddish-brown shades, turn green in summer, and change colors to brownish-purple again in autumn. Breeders, using this effect, brought a lot of varieties with unusual tones of foliage, changing throughout the season.

    By the duration of flowering spirea Japanese is a record holder. Her pink-red buds are gathered in luxuriant corymbose inflorescences. From mid-June, it is covered with fragrant hats of flowers. This magnificent spectacle can continue until the onset of cold weather. Japanese Spirea has many garden forms, differing in flower color, bush height and size of leaf blades.

    How to care for spirea

    Despite its simplicity, the Japanese Spirea bushes love well-lit places with fertile soil. It can feel great on shady areas, but the flowering will be less impressive, and the foliage is not so brightly colored.

    Landing is better to carry out at the beginning of the season. When buying seedlings, specimens with still-growing buds on branches are not yet touched. Carefully check the roots and shoots - they should not break when bent.

    How to plant a spirayu will tell the video:

    If the seedlings with a closed root system, then the plant may be with open leaves. In this case, carefully inspect all the twigs and leaves - they should not be sluggish and dry, and the soil in the container should be dried out or very wet. In the case of overflow or drying in the container, such a plant may die.

    A landing pit is prepared with a volume considerably exceeding the volume of the roots - taking into account further growth. At the bottom of the stack drainage of crushed old brick or expanded clay. To do this, you can use the remnants of the foam, pre-grinding it to the size of a walnut. Thoroughly filled with organic matter and mixed.

    Landing is better to make in cloudy, rainy weather. Placing the roots in the fossa, they are carefully covered with earth and well watered. The root neck should be at ground level. The soil around the bush carefully mulch - this will prevent the evaporation of moisture and the formation of soil crust.

    After a day or two, plants with blooming leaves can be shed with ammonia water. It acts as an anti-stress drug - gives food to the plant at a time when the roots are not yet able to fulfill their direct responsibility.

    Water the plant moderately if there has been no rain for a long time. If it sometimes rains, spirayu can not be watered. Mulch will help retain moisture.

    Another useful top dressing: a tablespoon of ammonia is dissolved in 10 liters of water. Plants can simply be irrigated with a solution of watering can so as to moisten all the leaves and twigs. The rest of the solution can be watered other plants. Ammonia quickly evaporates, so the solution is used as quickly as possible and not stored.

    The ammonia solution is a good tool with easily assimilable nitrogen, they can be fed spiraeus in a stressful state to quickly improve green mass growth and recovery.

    The soil under the bushes is constantly kept in a loose state - this is achieved by mulching with bark, peat or compost.

    To enhance the quality of flowering, they feed the plant after spring pruning with a liquid complex fertilizer, and in the middle of summer you can use a solution of organic fertilizer with the addition of superphosphate. Do it after heavy watering or during the rains.

    It is quite loyal to treat the spiraea cold weather, but to avoid freezing in the snowless winters, it is worth covering the roots and the lower part of the plant with dry peat, moss, sawdust or foliage. This is especially true of very young or recently transplanted bushes.

    Crop spirea spring video cropping

    Spiraeus can and should be subjected to heavy pruning. It quickly recovers and is gaining momentum. Pruning is done in early spring. Remove dry, old, damaged shoots at ground level. They give shape to the crown, shortening twigs out of the total mass. Spring haircut is only for the benefit of the plant - the more often they cut spirea, the more powerful and lush the bush grows. This procedure is made taking into account the nature of the formation of flower buds.

    The shoot is shortened to developed buds. And the little shoots are removed completely. After three years of life, the upper part of the old branches is cut to avoid deviation of their tops to the ground. The thoughtful and timely pruning of the spirea is aimed at achieving the maximum decorative effect and achieving a beautiful appearance. Sometimes apply cardinal pruning - cut the entire bush a little above the ground.

    Dividing bush

    Adult plants multiply by dividing the bush.

    • Do it in the fall or early spring before blooming buds, abundantly watering planting.
    • An adult plant is dug, cut with a sharp tool into pieces with several points of growth.
    • The cuts are slightly dried and sprinkled with crushed activated carbon to prevent rotting.
    • New bushes are planted with an interval of 0.6-0.8 m.

    How to propagate spirea cuttings

    Reproduction of spirea cuttings in summer

    • For grafting, at the end of June, they take a matured branch and cut it into several 10-12 cm segments, which are planted in a shady area of ​​the garden and maintain sufficient moisture there.
    • You can also use green cuttings of this year.
    • Cuttings take root well in the garden and in pots on the windowsill, you just need to keep the ground moist.
    • In winter, the planted bushes are covered with a layer of fallen leaves or peat, and in the spring they are placed at the intended growth site.

    Sowing on seedlings

    • Seeds are best sown in spring in planting boxes with a light soil substrate.
    • The embedding depth is 1 cm, the distance between the seeds is at least 2-3 cm in a row, between rows of 6-8 cm.
    • Water moderately, in the bottom of the container must be drainage holes, so that the moisture does not stagnate.
    • Usually germination is at least 50%. The first shoots appear within two weeks and in the first year of life they give one tortuous runaway.
    • Dive with the appearance of 2-4 true leaves in separate cups.

    After 2 months after germination, it is possible to plant the seedlings in the ground. Roots while slightly shortened to stimulate their branching. In the second year the bushes begin to branch. It is necessary to monitor the soil moisture and prevent it from drying out. На 3-4 год начинается первое цветение.

    Посев в грунт

    Спирея японская фото всходов в открытом грунте

    Спирею можно посеять прямо в грунт, как только созреет земля, ранней весной, или поздней осенью, под зиму. Густо взошедшие всходы прореживают, а когда немного поднимутся, месяца через 2-3, рассаживают с интервалом 30-40 см. For winter, seedlings are covered, and in spring they are planted in a permanent place.

    If you do not cut the spirea in the fall, in the spring you can find dense shoots of self seeding. These small seedlings can be left to grow and later seated as described above.

    Pests and diseases

    Usually, spirea is affected by a standard set of pests (aphid, rosaceous miner, rosette leafworm, spider mite) to combat which various measures are applied - agrotechnical, chemical, biological. Particular attention should be paid to prevention. Healthy and well-groomed plants are less susceptible to the attacks of various insects.

    Three-time treatment with ammonia water with an interval of two weeks, starting from the moment of leaflets, will help scare away unexpected guests and increase the resistance of the spiraea to diseases. Such processing will give an additional impetus to the growth of the vegetative mass, serving as a kind of foliar nutrition. Timely weeding, watering play an important role. To diseases of spiraea is fairly stable.

    In the design of gardens and parks, spirea is simply indispensable. It has a great variety of varieties, does not inhibit other plants, and tolerates pruning excellently. Looks great in any garden. Perfectly complements the composition of low trees and shrubs. Serves as an excellent screen for larger brethren with bare trunks.

    The spirea bush sprinkled with flowers on a green lawn looks spectacular. She is unusually attractive in a rock garden in the company of short conifers. Indispensable for creating hedges, as it is an inexpensive planting material and is easy to form. Very decorative during the autumn decolorization of the leaves, reviving the fading nature.

    Japanese spirea varieties with photos and descriptions

    Spirea Japanese variety Little Princesses spiraea japonica little princess photo

    Little Princess is a low shrub with a crown diameter up to 60 cm. It is characterized by slow growth and pink-red flowers in a corymbose inflorescence, appearing in late June. This plant can be a wonderful hedge.

    Spiraea Japanese Spiraea japonica Golden Princesses ‘Golden Princess’ photos in the garden

    Golden Pincess - the same low, but with bright yellow leaves and pink flowers. Blooms in July. In autumn, the leaves acquire a golden-orange color.

    Spiraea Japanese Goldflame Spiraea japonica Goldflame photo in the garden

    Goldflame - orange-yellow leaves adorn this bush less than a meter high. Over time, the color of the leaves changes to yellow, and then to green. In the autumn leaves get a copper shade. Feels great in an urban setting. Powerful and fast growing variety.

    Spirea Japanese variety Spiraea japonica ‘Shirobana’ photos in the garden

    Shirobana is a low shrub whose flowers change color from white to pink and red. This chameleon. Round bush forms a diameter of 0.8 cm.

    Spirea Japanese Macrophilus Macrophylla Photo in the Garden

    Macrophylla - large, wrinkled leaves of this variety become bright red with time. Very decorative variety that produces pale pink inflorescences.

    Spiraea japonica Japanese Dwarf variety photo in the garden

    Japaness Dwarf is a slow-growing dwarf shrub up to 30 in height. Blooms profusely in mid-summer pink buds. Ideal on stony hills, lawns, flower beds.

    Spiraea Japanese variety Spiraea japonica ‘Crispa’ photo in the garden

    Crispa - lilac-pink flowers and wavy-toothed leaves on a spherical bush will decorate any garden.

    Spirea planting and care in the open field photo

    How to plant spirea. How to propagate flower cuttings

    It is important to pay attention to the incredibly extensive number of varieties of spirea. Among them there are real giants with stems up to two and a half meters tall, and dwarf specimens growing only up to 20 centimeters. The plant is characterized by lush creeping branches, which can be both recumbent, and spread, and erect. The color of the bark can be very different, but more often it is represented by light and dark brown shades. Lignified shoots eventually begin to reset the bark.

    As for the shape of the leaves, it is the most diverse and is determined by the type or variety. In all cases, the leaf plates have a petiolate shape, although there are lanceolate, and rounded, and five-lobed specimens. In inflorescences in the form of plates or pyramids, tiny flowers are formed, painted in snow-white or crimson tones. Spirea blooms begin in spring or summer.

    And now, in fact, consider all the features of the correct landing spirea spring.

    The right choice and preparation of seedlings

    Spiraeus can be planted in autumn and spring, while the flowering period does not play a role here. The stalk is better to choose in a special garden center or nursery of ornamental plants, preferring options with a closed root system or a clod of earth. The seedling must remain young and compact, and there should be no leaves on it. Otherwise, the plant will not be able to transfer the upcoming event normally.

    It is better to refuse overgrown bushes with strongly branched shoots. Also, it makes no sense to buy plants with a large root system. For example, if roots are shown from a drainage hole, such a sapling will not be good enough at a new place.

    When choosing plants with an open root system, be sure to ensure that the quality of the root lobe is adequate. It is important that the roots are wet and elastic, and any broken or blackened elements are completely absent. You should also beware of dry or brittle roots, which are characterized by poor immunity. Very good, if the rhizome is covered with a mixture based on clay, manure or stimulating substances.

    As for the branches, they must remain alive and flexible, have a green bark and healthy buds.

    Suitable place for planting seedlings

    Almost all exotic plants have a particular fastidiousness in terms of choosing a landing site. Spiraea is no exception. When searching for a suitable site, a number of the following features should be considered:

    • Flower is considered a very light-loving "green friend", although he lives quietly in the conditions of constant sunshine and in partial shade. By the way, in the latter case the activity of growing green mass will be more intense, but flowering is much worse. With a slight shading, the peduncles acquire bright, contrasting tones and acquire a very elegant decorative effect,
    • When choosing a substrate should be preferred to permeable, moderately moist soil. To improve the composition of the garden soil, it is necessary to mix it with leaf or sod land in equal proportions. You can also use heavy clay soils that are loosened with peat and sand. Bilard's spirea variety and other hybrid varieties do not survive well on calcareous soils,
    • Landing Spirea it is important to create a drainage layer based on expanded clay or broken brick,
    • Pit for planting must be one third more than the earthen clod of the seedling and have a depth of at least 0.5 meters. It is important that the neck of the roots is located on the same level as in the nursery,
    • Landing is better to conduct on a cloudy day, and in rainy weather the probability of survival is maximum,
    • Spirea grows well together with coniferous crops

    Features of planting in the fall

    In addition to breeding in spring, spirea can be planted in the fall. This method is suitable for all varieties, regardless of the period of flowering and species differences. The main thing is that the landing was implemented before the end of the leaf fall. In this case, the method of reproduction by dividing a shrub shows itself well, and it is suitable only for 3-4-year-old plants. Older specimens have a very large root system, which is not easy to remove from the ground and divide.

    Shared bush to dig out of the ground. If during the removal process, some roots are damaged, it will not cause much harm to the spirea. Ready to bush is important to put in a bowl of water and leave there for a few days. Soaked earth should remain at the bottom, and the rhizome will be completely free. The option of removing the old earth with the help of running water is welcome.

    If you are going to propagate the spirea by dividing the bush, then for the procedure it is better to use a special tool - a sharp shears. It is important that on each plot remained branched lobes of the roots and about two or three young shoots at the age of 1-2 years. After that, you must follow the landing instructions, which is used for spring planting. To begin with, the pit needs to be well treated by drainage and form an earthen hill where the roots will be stretched. Then it remains to fill the deepening with earth and provide him with a balanced watering as the roots are instilled. After creating the irrigation hole, it is necessary to mulch the surface.

    Features care spirea. Balanced watering, pruning and shelter

    If you choose a garden plant with an unpretentious and hardy character, spirea is the most suitable option. The flower needs minimal care, which includes:

    • balanced watering
    • periodic soil loosening
    • weed removal
    • fertilizer use,
    • trimming activities.

    Spirea rhizome is at a shallow depth, due to which the need for soil mulching appears very often. It is also important to water the bush at least 2 times a month, pouring one and a half buckets of clean, settled water under it.

    Loosening the soil and removing weeds is an important guarantee for good health of the bush. For fertilizing, you can use complex fertilizers, including: extracts of mullein and mixtures of superphosphate, in a concentration of 10 grams per bucket of infusion. It is important that dressing activities take place after trimming and before flowering.

    As for pests and diseases, the spiraea practically does not encounter them. In rare cases, the bush is under the influence of aphids and spider mites, which create colonies on young, still insufficiently formed shoots. Aphids can suck out juices and weaken the plant, creating secretions where a soot fungus soon forms, which seriously worsens the condition of the leaves. To combat the problem, you can use special drugs or herbal teas. If the number of pests is small, you can get rid of them with a stream of water. However, in most cases, contact with such insects does not cause serious consequences, and they disappear on their own, without harming the decorativeness of the bush.

    Characteristics of spirea breeding

    Spirayu can be propagated by the following methods:

    1. seeds
    2. grafting,
    3. dividing the bush
    4. layering.

    The most unfortunate method of reproduction is considered seed. The fact is that it can be used to display only non-hybrid varieties, since the varietal properties of the new plant will be completely different than those of the mother bush. In addition, the probability of germination is extremely small, because the seeds need time-consuming stratification.

    As for breeding using cuttings, this method shows good results. If you follow the basic recommendations, then the planting material will serve for the germination of new shoots in 70% of cases. At the same time rooting occurs without the use of root formers. For successful rooting, you need to take a strong one-year sprout and divide it into cuttings with 5-6 buds. Sheets at the bottom are pre-removed, and the remaining leaf plates are cut by half. Excellent rooting is seen when using a solution of epine, in which the cuttings are soaked. The bottom of the planting material can be processed using Kornevin.

    Selected cuttings are planted in moist soil at an angle of 30–45 degrees. As a substrate, you can use a variety of soil mixtures, including sand, perlite, nutrient soil, vermiculite, and others. To protect the stem from aggressive environmental impacts, you can cover it with a plastic bottle with a cropped bottom. Such an improvised greenhouse allows you to maintain a uniform temperature for a long time.

    Given the basic guidelines for caring for spiraea, you can grow truly healthy, beautiful and graceful bush with lush flowering and excellent germination. It is important that all breeding rules are followed as accurately as possible. In this case, the result of the upcoming landing will be successful, and the effort expended will not be in vain.

    Adding an article to a new collection

    A faded spirea looks not too decorative - a green bush with brown spots of dry brushes does not attract the eye. However, you should not forget about it, because after flowering, the best moment for grafting and rooting comes.

    In spring, such species as Thunberg spirea, gray spirea, urban spirea, oak oak spiraea, Nippon spirea, Alpine spiraea, Spiraea medium, and the spirit of the Brae, spiraea Vangutta, spiraea, limpistus, spiraea, and the beast spirit, bloom in the brains. They begin flowering in April-May, and finish by mid-July, depending on the region and weather. It is these types of shear after flowering, because they lay flower buds on the shoots of last year, actively grow and degenerate with a strong thickening of the bush.

    If you have one of these bushes, now is the time to do it. Not sure where to start? Watch your hands!

    Remove dried and weak branches

    After the bush is cleared of brown spots, proceed to sanitary pruning. Feel free to cut the dried and broken branches - they will not heal, and pathogenic bacteria can get into the wound.

    Thin shoots growing from the ground itself into the crown should also be removed. They thicken the center of the bush, do not affect flowering and in vain draw strength. Cut them to the ground level, without leaving them on the surface of the kidneys, so that the spiraea will not give several even thinner twigs instead of one removed.

    Thinning crown from the root

    Thin out the spirea, i.e. it is possible to carry out formative pruning only from 4-5 years of age, before this bush is not too thick. The more sunlight gets on the branches, the more abundant their flowering will be, therefore the center of the bush must be forcibly unloaded.

    If you do not know which branches to remove and which to leave, choose for cutting those that are clearly below the others, have many branches, almost did not bloom. As a rule, they are located in the center and are the oldest. They can also be distinguished by the thickness at the base and the abundance of bare branches, on which the leaves are only on the most recent buds.

    Do not regret and the branches growing parallel to the ground at the very bottom of the shrub. You can try to make them otvodki, or you can not dilute the dampness in the root zone and immediately cut them.

    Spiraea care after pruning

    Although the spirea bushes are undemanding and grow even in the conditions of the city, if you want a lush flowering, you should not leave them without care. However, this culture will require a minimum of care.
    It is necessary to water the spirea only during a long (longer than 2 weeks) drought or at very high temperatures. Like other shrubs, she does not like it when the sunlight plays with water droplets on the leaves, and therefore it is better to water it in the evening or at the root.

    Spirea weeding is also a voluntary thing, but cutting the grass under it is necessary regularly, especially if you grow low varieties. The point is not even that in the struggle for nutrients with the thistle and spirea wheatgrass can lose, but that weeds, making their way through its dense crown, become practically indestructible and have a bad effect on the decorative effect of the entire composition.

    Finally, spirea feeding, which is carried out 2-3 times a year, may consist of both complex mineral fertilizers and organic matter. Shrubs respond well to watering with a 10% solution of chicken manure or manure, extract of mowed grass with bread, and mulching of a tree trunk with compost. The first feeding of the spirea occurs at the beginning of May (before flowering), the second is carried out immediately after flowering, and the third (without nitrogen) - at the beginning of September.

    Step 2. Spirea grafting

    Do not rush to throw or burn cut branches - they will be useful to you if you plan to propagate your shrub. Spiraea is growing rapidly, it takes root easily when rooting both green and lignified cuttings, it feels great on most soils and blooms luxuriantly, and therefore it is worth decorating your garden or territory before planting it. In addition, having drafted a spiraeus, you can make good money on planting material and become owners of plants with all the maternal qualities.

    Spirea cutting

    For rooting, young straight twigs are best, with leaves growing from each internode.

    They need to be cut in length of 10-15 cm, but at the same time there should be at least 4 pairs of buds on each handle.

    The lower cut is made oblique and placed under the kidney, the upper - straight and above the kidney.

    After that, the lower 1-2 pairs of leaves are removed, and the upper ones are cut in half.

    Cut slices for 6 hours put in a solution of indolylacetic or indolyl butyric acid (Heteroauxin, Kornevin, Super Root, etc.)

    Step 3. Rooting cuttings

    As you know, spirea is an easily rooted culture, so it will not require special care. Вы можете воткнуть черенки в контейнеры с легким почвенным субстратом, песком или смесью торфа и садовой земли. Затем обильно увлажнить, а сверху накрыть пленкой, чтобы образовался микропарник. Если вы укореняете спирею в открытом грунте, также подойдут обрезанные пластиковые бутылки, которые можно втыкать в землю над черенками.However, the most effective way is to build a small cuttings, in which not only spirea, but also other, more capricious cultures can be rooted.

    Step 4. Build a graft

    Since we recently talked about the construction of such a cuttings in detail, this time we will list only the main points.

    Choose, weed and burn the ridge, pour it abundantly with water until the soil gets wet to a depth of 10-15 cm. Install it on the ridge of the arc.

    Plant the prepared cuttings on the handle and cover it with a film.

    Sprinkle the film around the perimeter with earth so that air does not penetrate under it.

    From all sides (except the north), install a tyn from the branches of deciduous plants so that the cuttings are in a sparse shadow.

    After 10-14 days, start gradually to air the cuttings, and then open them completely - they should give roots and be adapted to life in the fresh air.

    The survival rate of spirea after summer cutting is about 70%. Take this into account when rooting, planting cuttings with a margin that you just had enough.

    When and how to harvest cuttings?

    Spirea is an ornamental shrub, represented by a variety of unpretentious varieties of different heights and shades from white to deep red. Perennial successfully reproduces both seed and vegetative methods. The advantage of the latter method is the preservation of all varietal characteristics of the mother plant. Any hybrid of spirea can be propagated by cuttings, while seed propagation is used only for species spears. Reproduction can be carried out throughout the growing season until the fall.

    When spirea breeding in spring, it is better to wait until the active growth of green mass will stop. At this time of the year, it is recommended to take the last year's woody brown shoots. If the species is flowering, you will have to wait until the beginning or mid-June.

    The highest percentage of rooting is observed in the branches, taken in the summer after flowering. Take the green shoots of the current year.

    It is better to collect blanks in cloudy or rainy weather. The twigs are taken only from a healthy bush. They must grow strictly upwards, so the new bush will acquire the correct form of the crown. If the maternal plant is damaged by a pest, it is treated with special preparations until complete recovery. After treatment, no less than three days should pass before collection. Simultaneously with spirea, it is possible to organize the reproduction of hydrangea cuttings, as well as forsythia and weigela.

    Cuttings last year begin to root in September. In the autumn, this should be done by October, so they will have time to settle down before the onset of winter. The advantage of autumn breeding is a minimum of care for seedlings in the winter. At home, in spring and summer, cuttings require frequent watering and spraying, in winter there is enough snow on the site.

    Rooting in the sand, a jar of water on the site

    The percentage of rooting for this perennial is high - up to 70%. If you use root growth stimulants, the survival rate of the branches increases to 100%.

    Preparation for rooting:

    1. All the upper parts of the branches need to be cut. On the workpiece, the length of which is 15-20 cm, 4-5 leaves should remain.
    2. All lower leaves are removed, and the upper ones are shortened to half. This will reduce the evaporation of moisture.
    3. Bottom branches make an oblique cut.
    4. Before planting, the blanks are sent to the rooting stimulator solution for 10-12 hours. Suitable drug Epin (1 ml per 2 liters of water).

    The easiest option to root a spirea is to place the cutting in water, but this method makes the plant less resistant to adverse conditions. Cuttings become brittle, can quickly rot. Experienced gardeners prepare sand or a special substrate for planting.

    Root the stalk can be in the wet sand, deepening it by 2-3 cm. It is placed at a slight angle to ensure enhanced growth of the root system due to inhibition of the development of the upper bud.

    Planting can be planted immediately on the site. To do this, prepare the substrate of sand and peat, taken in equal proportions. Planting rules are the same as when grown in the sand.

    Care for small seedlings before transplanting into open ground is not so difficult. There are several rules:

    1. Capacity covered with a film or a transparent cover to create a greenhouse. A plastic bottle and a glass jar will do.
    2. Every 2-3 days shelter is removed and sprayed.
    3. The pots are placed on the windowsill with diffused lighting. Another option is to pot the pot in the garden and fill it with leaves and spruce branches. In the spring with the advent of new roots, the plant is transplanted to a permanent place of residence.

    Transplantation in open ground and further care

    Terms of planting young seedlings in open ground depend on the characteristics of the region. In the middle zone, work is carried out in early spring or autumn before the leaf fall. In colder regions, spring planting is preferred. Spirea can be planted in a well-lit, and in a slightly shaded place. In the shade to place the shrub is not worth it, because of the lack of light of its inflorescences begin to shrink. It should be noted that in the shady place most varieties of tree peony, clematis, large-leaved hydrangeas will not take root.

    The blanks rooted in September-October are moved to the garden bed next spring. Cuttings that rooted in spring and summer can wait until autumn or until next spring.

    In order for the young spirea to grow and bloom, the soil in the area must be slightly acidic or neutral, friable, and permeable. If the ground is heavy, then the size of the landing hole is increased several times, placing a drainage layer on the bottom. When organizing the landing and care of the chubushnik, this rule is also taken into account.

    Even a novice can plant a young spirea in the garden, guided by several simple tips:

    • Planting work begins with the preparation of a nutrient substrate to fill a pit of 2 parts of garden soil, 1 part of sand and 1 part of peat.
    • Planting pits are dug 1.5-3 times wider and deeper than the size of the seedling's root system. Pebbles, broken bricks and coarse sand are laid on the bottom.
    • Carefully remove the seedling from the pot, send it to the hole and straighten the roots.
    • Fill up the bush with the substrate prepared in advance so that the root collar remains at ground level.
    • Abundantly watered and mulch pristvolny circle.

    If it is decided to land several spirees, then 50-70 cm is left between the bushes. When creating a hedge it is enough to provide a distance of 40-50 cm.

    Video with recommendations for growing garden spirea cuttings.

    In the early years of growth for the shrub requires more painstaking care:

    1. The primary condition for the rapid acclimatization of the spirea bush is moderate humidity. Since the root system lies close to the surface, it can dry out on hot days. Watering should be moderate, on rainy days the bush can do without adding moisture.
    2. For additional protection of the roots and preservation of the necessary moisture, the trunk circle is periodically mulched with peat and wood bark.
    3. Cultivation of decorative spirea is impossible without fertilizer. In the spring the bush needs a liquid mineral complex, in the summer - organic matter and superphosphate. All fertilizers applied after watering.
    4. In winter, young shrubs shelter from the cold. The branches are interconnected, bend down to the ground, sprinkled with dry leaves with a layer of 10 cm, sprinkle lapnik above.
    5. Trimming is a must-have procedure for preserving the beautiful appearance of the spirea. The first haircut is carried out after wintering. All frozen and dry branches are cut off completely.

    Cutting is the most popular perennial breeding method. Both green and lignified shoots root well, quickly germinate and do not require special conditions of maintenance, which means that even a novice gardener will be able to grow spruce from the cuttings of a wildly blossoming spirea.

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