Planting this crop on the site is not an easy task for summer residents. But having penetrated into the details, having studied the peculiarities of growing melons, everyone understands that there is nothing difficult in this. It is enough to follow the advice of experienced vegetable growers, strictly following the recommendations. Carefully observe the plant: it itself will tell you what it needs.
When to plant
The technology of growing in the open ground melon is simple. It is necessary:
- to choose the right place
- to prepare a bed,
- choose a grade
- to decide on the landing time,
- plant the seeds.
In central Russia, return spring colds are not uncommon. Therefore, planting material is sown in the ground not earlier than the end of May - the beginning of June. In other regions, the planting date of the melon is determined according to the climate. Each gardener independently selects the day of sowing, taking into account the attendant factors. Climate, weather conditions, soil composition and more.
Planting material is planted in the ground when the soil warms up well, and the seeds are guaranteed to sprout. Otherwise, they will rot in the ground, not even trying to hatch.
Choosing dates, the ripening period of the fruit is counted from the date of sowing. The sooner the summer resident has planted a melon, the earlier the harvest will be, which depends on the characteristics of the variety.
Properly chosen place for culture is part of success. Melon grows in areas where the sun shines all day, the culture does not tolerate shade. At the site of landing should not accumulate moisture, the excess lead to rotting of the root system and the destruction of the bush. Therefore, if possible, sown on small mounds.
It is not recommended to plant a melon among trees and shrubs, shading leads to a deterioration in taste. It is desirable to sow after vegetable crops, if a pumpkin has grown before, pick up another plot. Places for planting should be cleared of roots, weeds and well ventilated.
Of the soil is preferable:
- in acidic soil,
- in tight ground.
The chosen warm place is pre-cooked, only then melon seeds are sown. How to do it correctly, prompt experienced gardeners and seed producers.
Landing area processing
To grow melon in the open field, it is necessary to properly prepare the site for sowing. To do this, dig up soil in the fall to a depth of 25-30 cm in the fall. Add humus, compost at the rate of 25 kg per 1 m 2. Oversaturation will lead to an increase in green mass and a decrease in the number of fruits.
In the spring, the plot is loosened by adding potassium phosphate fertilizers. Proportions 25-35 g per 1 m 2. Later, after 2 weeks of planting, re-loosening to a depth of 5-7 cm is carried out. At the end, the seeds are sown. Preparing the soil, sowing in open ground is carried out in a timely manner. Without neglecting the preparation tips and correctly selecting the variety, the summer resident gets an excellent harvest.
Seed preparation for sowing
Harvested seeds should be checked. The future crop of plants depends on it. This stage of landing is of considerable importance. It is necessary to stir 50 g of salt in a liter of water, pour melon seeds there. Those that surfaced, immediately choose, the rest are suitable for landing. They are lightly washed and proceed to further processing.
There are many ways, each summer resident shares his recipe. But the main few:
- Easy way. Seeds are kept in the sun for 14 days. Then for 30 minutes. placed in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. After washed with running water, dried and sown.
- Planting material folded for 2-3 hours in a thermos, pour water 70 ⁰C. After this method of processing is kept in a warm place until germs, be sure to wrap a cloth. Then planted in soil or containers.
- Planting material is placed in a gauze bag in warm water for 20 minutes. Then wrapped with plastic bag and left to germination.
- In a glass of water, stir 1 teaspoon of wood ash. Soaked in her seeds for 12 hours. After necessarily washed and dried.
- When grown in regions with a cold climate, hardening is recommended. At 12 o'clock put in a warm place, use radiators. Seeds are wrapped in cloth, slightly moistened. Then put in the fridge for 24 hours. After again return to heat. Repeat the sequence up to 5 times, alternating between cold and warm content of planting material.
- Treated composition, which is sold in a specialty store. Be sure to read the instructions, choosing a more neutral composition.
Summer residents choose methods that are harmless to the human body, not particularly trusting chemistry. In any case, the choice remains for the vegetable grower. Leaving in the open field consists of mandatory procedures, the implementation of which will lead to obtaining the declared harvest.
Planting seeds for seedlings
For the garden growing seedlings is the most acceptable option. From mid-spring to the landing, the seedlings are in the house. When it becomes warm, the threat of frost will pass, the grown bushes of culture will be taken out onto the street and planted in a permanent place.
How to grow a melon at home and prevent mistakes, every second summer resident wonders. Nothing particularly to do. Carrying out simple techniques, growers grow strong, strong seedlings. Peat pots with a diameter of 10 cm are filled with a nutrient mixture. The depth of melon seeding is 5 cm. Then the containers are tightened with polyethylene or covered with glass and placed in a warm place. The optimum temperature is +20 ⁰С.
After the emergence of seedlings, the film is removed and the melon is allowed to grow. Potted seedlings are moved to a sunny windowsill or other well-lit place. If necessary, arrange the lighting with special lamps, as the seedlings are drawn out with a lack of sunlight.
Top dressing and watering
As a feed for melons, mullein or other organic fertilizer is used. It is advisable not to overfeed the culture. In this case, the plants fertilizer is harmful. When the 5th real leaf appears, it is planted in a permanent place.
Water as necessary, after the top layer dries. Before the emergence of shoots make sure that the earth does not dry out. If necessary, spray the soil with a spray gun.
Preparing seedlings for planting
It is recommended to harden the plants before planting. Melon must be accustomed to the sun, wind and other factors of open ground. To do this, put the pots with seedlings to the loggia, to the veranda, to the balcony or just to the street, leave for 10-20 minutes. The next day, everything repeats, but time increases. And so they do 7-10 days, the total time spent by plants on the street is 10-12 hours.
It all depends on the variety.
The selection of varieties and characteristics of fruits often play a key role in the cultivation of melons. In addition, it is important to understand that in regions with unpredictable summer it is better to choose plants with an early growing season (60–80 days). Then the chance that the melon will ripen and give a rich harvest increases significantly.
Early varieties include the following varieties.
Fruits ripen 60–70 days after germination. They have a dense, crumbly flesh, a delicate sweet taste. Melon rind is yellow, covered with a rough grid, weight ranges from 1.5 to 2 kg.
In terms of ripening does not differ from Early 133. It has a thin, smooth skin, rich yellow color, the fruit is slightly segmented. The melon shape is oval, the approximate weight is 2–2.5 kg. The flesh is sweet, fine-grained.
The vegetation period is 65–70 days. Fruits are round, segmented, with longitudinal green stripes. The average weight of a melon is 1.5 kg. Cream-colored flesh, crispy, sweet.
The melon reaches ripeness in 60–70 days from the moment of emergence of shoots. The shape is slightly oval, the color is yellow, the peel is covered with a solid rough mesh. Fruit weight can range from 1 to 2 kg. The flesh is 3 cm thick, crispy and sweet.
Golden oval melon with a convex mesh, weight up to 1.5 kg. Maturing terms - 65–75 days. The skin is thin, the pulp is grainy, sweet, has a yellowish tint.
Recommendations for the timing
Melon is a heat-loving culture, therefore, it should be planted in the ground only when the air temperature rises to 15–20 degrees during the daytime and will not fall below 7 at night. worth it. Very often after a while there is a cold snap, and sometimes night frosts. But in the second half of May, the weather, as a rule, becomes steadily warm. If, nevertheless, the air temperature has fallen sharply, the plants should be covered with an additional layer of film, and at night add rags, paper or other auxiliary materials. It also does not hurt to see the long-term weather forecast before planting melon seedlings in open ground.
Approximately 30-35 days after the first shoots appear, seedlings grow 5–7 true leaves, and it can already be planted in open ground. But to melon grew well, you need to choose the right place to plant it. The earth should be light, with a neutral reaction, without increased moisture and a tendency to acidification. Best of all, if the north side of the beds are protected by fruit trees or buildings. From the south, the space should remain open.
Planting seedlings in the ground should be as follows.
- Dig a trench with a depth of 30–40 cm and a width of 50 cm, lay the compost on the bottom, and then apply manure with a layer of at least 10 cm, top it with previously removed soil. When decomposed, fertilizers will release heat, which will help protect seedling roots from short-term cooling.
- Dig holes at a distance of 50–70 cm (interrow width 1–1.5 m), pour warm water each.
- Then you need to plant seedlings. Taking it out of the pot, care should be taken, it is important not to damage the roots. To do this, 1-2 days before planting, the potted land is poured abundantly. Do not bury the plants, the seedling lump should protrude above the surface a couple of centimeters. In the opposite case, there is a risk of rotting of the subfamiliar knee.
- After the landing is over, the wells should be dusted with dry soil. This will avoid the formation of a peel.
- In the presence of film cover, melon seedlings are immediately covered with a film. In the absence of it, the plants should be covered for the first time at night with cut plastic bottles.
You can grow melons in two ways - spread out and on the trellis. In the first case, in order to increase the yield, the shoots of the seedlings are pinched over the 5th leaf. In the future, the plant starts up two side shoots, which are pinched in the same way and fixed on the ground. Thus, nutrients are consumed in fruits, not in green mass.
When the trellis method of cultivation is necessary to prepare in advance a special two-meter frame. Already on the 4th day after the transplanting of the seedlings into the ground, it should be fixed on it with the help of a rope. As the shoots grow, pinch them in the same way, and then tie them to the trellis. This method is good because the whips are better lit and warmed up.
In order for the fruits to turn out beautiful, of the correct form and with a uniform golden color, it is necessary to turn them over from time to time during the ripening period.
Melon care rules
Melon tolerates drought much better than excessive watering. But in order for the fruits to gain sugar, it is important to maintain the necessary moisture, as well as to feed the seedlings with mineral and organic fertilizers. It is especially important to care for the melon at the time of the formation of lateral shoots and when it begins to bloom. There are also other rules.
- After planting seedlings in the ground is over, the first week you need to ventilate the greenhouse (provided that the air temperature in it rises to 30 degrees and above).
- The first watering is carried out in 1–1.5 weeks. One well requires about 2 liters of water (necessarily warm). Next, water the melon seedlings should be 1 time per week, increasing the amount at the beginning of flowering. But during the period of fruit ripening, the amount of water needs to be reduced, and 2 weeks before harvesting, completely stop.
- You can feed plants with nitrogen fertilizers within 10 days after planting in the ground, but not more than 3 times during the whole time. For the first time, nitrogen fertilizer is usually taken (20 g of ammonium nitrate per 10 liters of water), and then complex feedings are used.
- If film cover is used, then at the end of June, when the melon begins to bloom, it can already be removed. This is necessary so that insects gain access to the plants and pollinate them. If this is not possible, then you should do it yourself. When the flower opens it is necessary to carefully transfer the pollen from the male flower to the female. To distinguish them, it is enough to pay attention to the ovary, they are absent on male flowers.
- Also, do not forget to pinch the tops above each 5-6th leaf, and after the formation of 1-4 fruits remove all other ovaries and shoots. So the plant will spend all its strength on pouring melons, in addition, the illumination will improve.
Use caution when using nitrogen fertilizers, their overabundance may increase the growing season and fruiting.
Everyone can grow a melon, you just need to know the basic rules and have at least two warm months a year. This is quite enough to have time to get a juicy ripe melon to the table, but early varieties should be chosen. It is also important to begin to germinate seedlings, and when the onset of heat to plant it in open ground
After 60–70 days, the harvest can already be harvested.
Fetal maturity is determined by the rich aroma and color of the rind. In addition, in a ripe melon on the side opposite to the stem, the crust bends. Fruits are stored at a temperature of +4 degrees, the humidity of the air is optimal - 70%. The only negative - early varieties do not ripen in the room. But how much use in fragrant melon! It has unsurpassed dietary, anti-aging properties, it contains iron, potassium, calcium, sodium and chlorine, vitamins A, C, PP, B1, B2.
Melon belongs to the genus Cucumber family Pumpkin. From the standpoint of botany, a plant can be counted among vegetables or berries, but many are accustomed to consider melon a fruit, if we consider its taste qualities from a culinary point of view.
Melon culture has been cultivated for many centuries, so it is difficult to say where it was first cultivated. At the moment, the birthplace of melons is officially recognized as Small and Central Asia. In European countries, the fruits of the plant began to grow during the Middle Ages, and the culture was brought to Russia not earlier than the 16th century.
Melon is an annual plant, which is characterized by a creeping shoots, reaching a length of 1.5−3 m. Large pyatidolnye leaves have a whole, heart-shaped palchatolopastnuyu form. Leaf plates are arranged on the stem alternately. Bisexual flowers have a light yellow color. Fragrant fruit and berries can be with green, yellow, brown or white skin, on which there is sometimes a pattern of light stripes. The shape of the fruit can be oval, cylindrical or flattened. Pumpkin flesh can be white, yellow, orange or greenish.
The flowering of the heat-loving culture occurs in June-July, and the ripening of berries - in August or early September.
Fruits contain a number of vitamins and beneficial substances for the body. They love melon for juicy and sweet flesh. No summer is complete without this fruit, which not only nourishes the body, but also quenches thirst in the hot periods of the season.
In the quality of seed use large seeds that are 3-4 years old. Young samples are not used, because of them the fruits will not be able to form due to the lack of female flowers. Prepare seeds in several ways:
- Seeds are treated in a solution of potassium permanganate for 20-25 minutes.
- Some use a solution of boric acid with zinc sulfate, in which the seed should be held for half a day.
- Stratification, or cold hardening, is the most reliable way to strengthen the seeds. The material is first soaked in warm water for 2 hours, then wrapped in gauze and left in a room with a temperature of + 14−18 degrees for 24 hours. Then the gauze with the seeds is placed in a refrigerator, where the temperature is set at + 1-3 degrees. In the cold, the material should lie for 19–20 hours. After the bag is again transferred to the previous room, where the seeds should rest for about 6 hours before planting in the ground.
These funds increase the plant immunity to various diseases and pests.
Seeds for seedlings also undergo stratification or another method of preparation. Material should be sown in the second half of April.
- For the seed, a substrate is prepared from peat, wood ash and a small amount of sand. The mixture is filled with peat pots with a diameter of 7−8 cm
- In one tank planted for 2−3 seed to a depth of 1-2 cm
- The pots are moved to the room where they are stored at a temperature of + 20−24 degrees. Необходимо следить, чтобы ночью показатель не превышал отметки +17.
- Первых всходов можно ожидать через 7−9 дней. В каждой емкости оставляют самый крепкий сеянец, а остальные прищипывают у поверхности.
- Прищипку саженца совершают, когда на нем сформируется несколько пар листьев.
- Peat pots are transferred to the window sill of the window facing south, where young plants can get the necessary amount of heat and light. You can leave the seedlings in the room, organizing for them an artificial light, which should be left on at least 12 hours a day.
- Caring for seedlings consists of regular watering. For this purpose it is necessary to use only warm separated water. Watering is done so that moisture does not fall on the forming leaves. To avoid black legs, experienced gardeners are advised to sprinkle the soil with dry sand. Complex mineral fertilizers are applied to the substrate in the amount of two supplements during the whole growing of seedlings.
- 7 days before planting in open ground, seedlings are taken out into the air or kept in a room in which the temperature is reduced to +16 degrees for a certain time. So plants get used to new conditions.
Planting melons in the open ground is carried out directly with peat pots. Culture does not tolerate any transplant, therefore this method of cultivation is more preferable for a representative of the Pumpkin family.
Site selection and site preparation
Plant melon in the ground should be with the onset of warm weather. Seedlings are planted when about three pairs of true leaves form on the seedlings. If the spring frosts are not completely, then the planted plants will need to be covered with a protective film.
Vegetable-berries can be planted in the ground after growing in it legumes, cabbage, corn, onions, cucumbers, wheat, garlic, barley. It must be remembered that a melon can not be grown twice in a row in the same soil. Poor development of culture will be observed after planting in the land where tomatoes and carrots grew. Excellent neighbors for the plant - basil, chard, radish, turnip, beans, sorrel. Not advised to grow melon next to cucumbers and potatoes.
Gourd culture grows well in sunny areas, protected from drafts and strong winds. Experienced gardeners are advised to choose the south side. The soil should be neutral, light and rich in organic compounds. Melon grows well even in dry and saline soil, but the acidic and moist substrate will be harmful for it. Light, medium loamy soil will be ideal for growing juicy fruits.
Ground for melon is prepared in the fall. They dig up the earth at the depth of a spade bayonet, adding 5 kg of manure or humus to it. Sand should also be added to clayey soils. In early spring, soil is loosened with the addition of potassium salt and superphosphate.
Care for melon in the open field involves the following activities:
- Tying to support
- Weeding and loosening
Plants are watered regularly with warm settled water. One watering per week is enough for this crop. Moisturize the soil should be in the morning. Watering is done at the root, while you need to look so that the drops do not fall on the aboveground parts of the plant. Some gardeners organize drip irrigation system. Excess moisture in the soil can lead to decay of the melon root system, so watering should be done when the top layer of the soil is completely dry. With the advent of fruits, moisture is gradually reduced, as pumpkins will need to gain enough sugar.
The first dressings in the form of ammonium nitrate are applied to the soil 2 weeks after transplanting seedlings into open ground. A solution of this tool is used in the period of budding, but you can replace it with an extract of mullein. After a few weeks, make a mixture consisting of potassium salt, ammonium sulfate and superphosphate. These fertilizers are pre-dissolved in 10 liters of water.. If only one pumpkin develops on a plant, while others turn yellow and grow poorly, more dressings should be added to the soil.
With rooting, seedlings are secondary to nip the main stems. This procedure helps to avoid building up extra foliage, so that the plant directs its energy to the formation of fruits. Each melon will develop the main stem and two side shoots. Hybrid varieties do without pinching, because they appear on female flowers. Lateral stems are pinched only so that the bush is not too thick. The procedure is performed after the second or third sheet.
Growing melons is not complete without the installation of frames, the height of which should be at least 1.8-2 m. The pumpkin-sized tennis ball is placed in a grid, which is fixed to the trellis to reduce the load on the bush. In order for the berry to ripen evenly, it must be periodically rotated in the grid. The ground under the lying fruits is covered with roofing material or foil.
Loosening between rows make at a depth of 13−16 cm, which each time slightly reduced. Around the young plants, loosening is no longer so deep. With the development of lateral lash culture spud. When closing the foliage no longer loosen the ground. You should also timely clean the area from weeds.
Diseases and insect parasites: control methods
If agrotechnical rules are not observed or the melon is properly cared for, it can undergo various diseases. In order to notice the first symptoms of the disease in time, you should regularly examine the bushes and apply measures to combat viruses and fungi in time. Gourd culture can suffer from the following diseases:
- Ascohitosis. The fungus is expressed in brown spots that appear first on the stems, and then spread to other parts of the plant. A culture dies when its root system is affected. Fungal disease occurs due to wet, warm weather. At the first symptoms of ascohyte, watering should be reduced and the affected parts should be powdered with ash and lime. An alternative would be to use Bordeaux fluid. As a preventive measure, seed material is recommended to be treated with Silk or Immunocytophyte.
- Root rot. The disease usually appears in weakened individuals. Roots and stems get a brown shade, then become thin, because of which the melon fades. Preventing the appearance of the disease will help pre-treatment of seeds in a formalin solution.
- Medyanka. Leaves appear rounded pinkish or brown spots, which increase with the development of the disease. Holes appear in the leaf plates, foliage twists, melon begins to dry. Scourges become thin and then break. There is a deformation and rotting of the fruit. The treatment consists in spraying the culture with Bordeaux liquid, which must be performed 3-4 times with an interval of 10-12 days.
- Mealy dew. The fungus can be found on whitish spots, which first appear on the stem and foliage, and then cover the entire plant, turning into a brown color. The sheet plates become fragile and eventually begin to dry out and curl. The growth of shoots and the development of the fruit is suspended. For processing using sulfur powder.
- Penosporosis. Yellow-green spots appearing on the leaves, over time, cover the entire plate, on the reverse side of which a patina of gray-violet hue appears. The affected specimens are treated with a solution of urea or Topaz.
- Fusarium. Fungal disease, carried by pests through the soil, occurs during the growing season or during maturation pumpkin. There is blanching of the leaves and the coating of the plates with gray spot. Later, the aboveground part fades, the plant dies in a week. During budding bushes are treated with potassium chloride. Seed material should be processed with formalin, then the chance of fusarium appearance will decrease.
Viral diseases are transmitted by insects. Usually they appear as mosaic stains, shortening of internodes, foliage deformation, slow development, falling ovaries and spotting on pumpkins. Plants affected by viruses cannot be cured; therefore, they are dug up, destroyed, and the soil is decontaminated by special means so that neighboring cultures are not infected, either.
Sometimes the melon is affected by a melon gourd, spider mite, wireworm or shovels. Destroy pests with insecticides. So that they do not appear, it is necessary to regularly weed the soil around the bushes.
Growing melons in the open field will not be difficult if you follow the above rules for planting and caring for the plant. If you spend a little time and effortthen you will end up with a rich harvest of fragrant and tasty fruits.
Melon Varieties for Open Ground
There is a mass of melon varieties with different characteristics. Before planting a melon in the open ground, you should take into account the peculiarities of climate and soil. For central Russia, early-maturing varieties that do not have high yields and large fruits are more suitable and are used for consumption in the summer.
- Collective farmer". Sufficiently productive mid-season variety. Small fruits have a smooth orange or dark green surface. They have a sweet taste, pronounced aroma, white and juicy flesh. Weight reaches 2 kg.
- "Cossack." This mid-season variety gives high yields. Round or oval-round smooth fruits have an orange skin color, with a sparse mesh visible on the surface. Gentle white flesh has an amazing taste and pronounced melon aroma.
- "Amber". This is a medium early variety, oval elongated fruits have a smooth surface, bright yellow color, thick, juicy and white flesh. Weight reaches about 2.5 kg.
- "Altai". Quick ripening variety. Small fruits weigh from 1 to 2 kg, have yellow-orange or white fragrant flesh and thin peel.
- "Pineapple." Early variety. Oval fruits have orange-golden skin and sweet light pink flesh.
- "Golden." Medium early variety. The small size of the fruit weighs from 1.5 to 2 kg, have a fragrant dense pulp.
- Canary. Early variety. Oval-shaped fruits have a smooth yellow skin and juicy soft green flesh. Weight can reach 2 kg.
- "Millennium". Early ripe variety. Suitable for growing in open ground. Small fruits have a smooth mesh skin, white granular sweet pulp.
- "Fairy tale". Early ripe grade with amicable ripening of fruits. Suitable for cultivation in the open field. Melon have a yellow mesh skin, sweet creamy light flesh, mild aroma. Weight reaches 1.8 kg.
- "Blondie." Mid-season variety. Small flat fruits weigh about 600 grams. They are distinguished by thin skin, divided by gray-green stripes into segments, bright orange pulp with a lot of sugar and carotene.
- "Moon". Medium early variety. The fruits have a smooth netted yellow surface, creamy flesh, pleasant taste and aroma.
- "Assol." Mid-season variety. Oval-round fruits have a smooth yellow striped skin, grainy tender flesh of greenish color, delicate taste and aroma.
- "Iroquois". Medium early variety. Segmented fruits have a coarse net skin, orange juicy flesh, sweet taste. Weight reaches 2 kg.
- "Charlotte". The medium early variety is suitable for outdoor use. Medium-sized dark yellow fruits contain fragrant tender orange pulp. Weight can reach 2 kg.
Selection and preparation of the site for the cultivation of melons
- Since the melon is a heat-loving plant, it should be planted in the open ground on a plot of land that is sufficiently lit, well warmed and protected from the wind. The cultivated soil should pass well moisture and air, have a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction.
- Already in the autumn should prepare a place for spring planting. To do this, you need to dig up the ridge shallowly and fertilize it with humus or peat, mix the clay soil with river sand.
- At the end of March last year's weeds are removed from the ground, the ground is again dug up and fertilized with mineral fertilizers. In the second decade of May, the soil must be well moistened and covered with plastic wrap, as a result of which the soil warms to the required depth.
- Before planting the melon, the soil must once again be dug up, fertilized with manure and enriched with nitrogen-containing fertilizers.
Preparation of melon seeds for planting
- To grow quality seedlings, you need to properly prepare the seeds. You can prepare them yourself or purchase ready-made ones. For a good harvest, three-year-old seeds are more suitable, because plants grow from fresh plants with no female inflorescences, as a result of which they are incapable of fruiting.
- They develop faster and produce high-quality fruits in the future, large seeds, processed with trace elements. For processing using a 0.05% solution of zinc sulfate and boric acid, in which the seeds are soaked for 12 hours, after which they are dried.
- For growing melons in the zone in central Russia, it is recommended to harden the seeds before planting. To carry out the procedure, it is necessary to heat the water to 35 degrees and place seeds in it for a couple of hours. Then remove them and leave for a day at a temperature of up to 20 degrees under gauze. After a set time, the temperature drops to 2 degrees and the seeds are left for another 18 hours. After that, they are kept for another 6 hours at a temperature of 20 degrees. Within 5 days before planting the seeds, the procedure must be carried out several times.
Growing melons in the open field
- When 4 leaves appear at the seedling, it will be planted in open ground, before it should be well moistened.
- The distance between the dug holes should be from 50 cm to 1 meter.
- If the root neck is ruined during planting, the plant will be exposed to fungal diseases. To avoid this, seedlings are planted along with an earthy clod, the top of which should be slightly above the hole. At the same time there should be no plant penetration into the soil.
- To prevent the formation of mold in the hole before planting, it is necessary to pour a solution of potassium permanganate in a low concentration.
- After planting, melon seedlings are watered at the root, so as not to damage the leaves and sprinkle dry soil on top. After 30 days, each plant needs to cut all weak shoots, leaving only 4 strong branches.
- In order to increase the yield, it is necessary to leave no more than three of all well-formed ovaries on the stem, which are located at some distance from each other, this will help to ensure that the fruits become tasty and large. In addition, it is necessary to remove all the shoots on which no ovaries have formed.
In order to protect the seedlings from night and daytime temperature extremes, it must be covered overnight with plastic wrap that will save the melon from the rain. A melon planted in open ground during the entire growth period requires constant care.
- Top dressing. The first feeding with mullein, chicken manure or nitre is carried out 14 days after planting. When the fruit will be the size of a small apple, the plants need to be fed again with mineral fertilizers. Further, feeding is carried out every ten-day period before the start of fruit ripening. You can alternate between mineral and organic fertilizers, an excess of nitrogen fertilizers usually leads to a delay in the fruiting period.
- Watering. Watering should be quite moderate, if there is a lot of dew on the beds with melons, it can be stopped completely. Also, this should be done about 30 days before harvest, which will make the fruits more sugary and better preserve them. Warm water (temperature between 22 and 25 degrees) should be supplied between the rows in order to prevent it from entering the stems and leaves. In dry and sunny weather, it is necessary to water the melons twice a day.
- Loosening. Loosening and weeding should be carried out as the soil is compacted (usually up to 4 times during the whole vegetation period) and weeds appear. Between rows, loosening the soil requires more deeply the first two times, then, to a depth of no more than 5 cm. Loosening is carried out near the stem with extreme care and not deep enough to avoid damaging the root system. When the side loops are formed, the plant is knocking out, the ground roller is scooped up to the stalk. Half-meter shoots are directed in the direction of the opposite row, this is done so that they do not fit between the rows.
- Pinching a melon. To ensure the rapid growth of lateral shoots will help pinching the growth point after the formation of 5 leaves. Two side young escapes can be pinned to the ground and also pinch the growth point. Due to this, all the nutrients are spent on fruits, and not spent on greens.
Growing melon video
Features of growing melons
- To increase the number of ovaries and improve their development, you can additionally self-pollinate female flowers. To do this, it is necessary to tear off one male flower and remove all the petals from it. After that, apply the column of his anther to the stigmas of several female flowers in turn. It is recommended to carry out the procedure in the morning.
- In the event that only one fruit grows well, and the rest began to turn yellow and stopped developing, it is recommended to additionally feed the plant.
- Под каждый уже сформировавшийся плод необходимо подложить дощечку, кусок рубероида или плитку, это поможет избежать загнивания дыньки при соприкосновении с влажной землей, а также убережет плод от проволочника. Чтобы дыня созревала равномерно со всех сторон, ее надо систематически аккуратно переворачивать.
- Обычно плоды поспевают в начале августа. The fact that it is sufficiently ripe and can be removed is indicated by a change in the color of the peel, the appearance of a pattern on it in the form of a grid, the peel also slightly bends when pressed, it becomes softer. In addition, melons are made very fragrant.
Planting melons in the open area
For the cultivation of melons need a sunny, warm and windless area. If corn, barley, winter wheat, legumes, onions, garlic, cucumbers, or cabbage grew on it last year, then it will play a positive role in the new crop. Such predecessors as tomatoes and carrots worsen the growth of melons. At one place it is not worth growing melon for several years. Next to the melons it is advantageous to plant beans, sorrel, basil, radish, turnip, radish, corn. But the neighborhood with cucumbers and potatoes should be avoided.
Melons grow well on light loamy, neutral and dry saline soils. Moist acidic and sandy soils, heavy loam are absolutely unacceptable for them. The preparation of land for melons should begin in the fall. At this time, the soil is dug up to a depth of about 25 cm, then humus is applied to the site. To facilitate the soil it is saturated with river sand. In the spring, the earth is loosened and enriched with potash and sulphate fertilizers, and just before sowing, the soil is filled with nitrogen fertilizers.
In the south, melon seeds are laid immediately in the unprotected soil in the last days of April or in early May, when the earth and air are sufficiently heated by the sun. In the middle and northern latitudes, seedlings are transplanted to the garden in the same period. Suitable conditions for the cultivation of melons can be created even on not very suitable soils and in various climatic environments.
Features of growing crops from seeds
Melons in the open field are grown from seed or seedlings.
Seed material purchased in specialized stores or procure their own.
For seeds, they take the bones only from ripe, large and sweet fruits.
It is important to remember that seed, harvested by hand, can be planted only in the third year, after its collection. This is due to the fact that plants not capable of fruiting grow from fresh seeds.
Home-grown seeds require additional processing before planting. It can be disinfected by irradiating for 6-10 days in the sun. Saturation of seeds with microelements contributes to their simultaneous germination.
To do this, you can use soaking for 12 hours in 0.05% solutions of boric acid or zinc sulfate, as well as 0.02% solution of ammonium molybrate. Before planting, the seeds are dried.
Hardening the seed increases the resistance of plants to temperature and accelerates their germination. This procedure is necessary for growing crops in poor soils and in northern latitudes. Hardening of seeds begins with soaking in warm water (+ 30 ... + 35º C) for a couple of hours. After that, they are wrapped in a damp cloth or paper and kept for a day at a temperature of + 15 ... + 20 º C.
For the next 18 hours, the seeds are placed in a refrigerator with a temperature of 0 ... + 2º C. The cooled seed is heated again for 6 hours at a temperature of + 15 ... + 20º C, and then cooled again. Hardening is carried out for 3-5 days, before planting. It is noted that plants from prepared seeds bear fruit before their untrained counterparts.
Cultivation of melons from seedlings
Melon seedlings are grown in small peat pots or tablets. Plastic or cardboard cassettes and pots, wooden crates and other homemade trays are also suitable for this purpose. Tanks are filled with specially prepared soil formulations:
- Option 1. To 10 liters of soil add 1 tbsp. wood ash, 1 tbsp. river sand, 9 tbsp. peat
- Option 2. Mix 1 tbsp. soil, humus, peat and ash, 1 tsp. potassium sulfate and urea, 1 tbsp. l superphosphate.
Prepared seeds of 2-3 pieces sown in a moist soil to a depth of about 3-5 cm and sprinkled with a thin layer (up to 2 cm) of sand.
Before the emergence of shoots, the daily ambient temperature is maintained at + 18 ... + 20 º C, and at night - at least +15 º C.
Moderate watering is carried out strictly under the root.
Under these conditions, shoots appear already on day 8.
Strengthened shoots should be thinned and, after the appearance of a 3-4 leaf on each, pinch - remove the growth point above the top leaf. Thanks to this procedure, lateral shoots are formed.
Seedlings are fed chlorine-free fertilizers a week later, after germination, and a week before transplanting. 7-10 days before planting in open ground, plants begin to harden. For this room with seedlings simply air or take it out. The plant is fully prepared for transplanting in open ground 25-30 days after seeding.
Melons are planted in holes 5-6 cm deep at a distance of 0.6-0.7 m from each other. The width of the aisle 0.7-1 m. Before laying the seeds and transfer of seedlings, moisten the soil. Sowing and planting melons before transferring to open ground should be prepared: saturate with useful substances and temper.
To improve the quality of the fruit you need to form the shoots of the plant and control the number of ovaries on it. The first pinching of the melon is done on the seedlings shoots, the next - after transplanting it into the open ground. In the melon, manipulations are carried out on the main shoot, because the fruits are formed on the side shoots.
Melon formation scheme
In the case of strengthened plants, when weaving appeared on the sides, they cut the stem over the third pair of leaves. On each side shoot leave one ovary, and the rest are removed. When the fruits reach the size of an apple, the weaves are shortened - at the distance of several sheets from the fruit the top of the shoot is cut off. Especially carefully the number of ovaries should be monitored in large-fruited varieties.
If necessary, you can provoke the growth of new leaves, pinching the stems over the melons. This procedure allows you to form strong plants and direct the flow of nutrients to selected fruits.
Care for melon is timely loosening, hilling, weeding, watering and feeding the beds. Loosening the soil between the rows is done several times per season. To do this, it is enough to fluff the soil 10-15 cm deep. The hilling of melons is carried out after the appearance of the first lateral weaves. The earth heats up to the roots of the plant in small tubercles.
Melons tolerate drought well and need moderate watering. At the same time, water should not be allowed to fall on leaves and wattle curtains, and only moisten between the rows. It is possible to save the fruits from rotting from contact with the wet ground by placing a plywood or a board under each of them.
After 14 days, after planting melons in open ground, they are fertilized with mullein, diluted chicken droppings or saltpeter. Every next 10 days, right up to the beginning of ripening of fruits, the feeding is repeated. Weave melons as needed. Caring for them is no different from caring for cucumbers.
Varieties of melons. Zoned varieties for the Moscow region
Homeland melon is tropical Africa and Asia. It has long been grown in Central and Asia Minor, India and China. There, and engaged in its selection at a primitive level. Criteria for the formation of new varieties were the taste and size of the fruit, early ripeness and keeping quality.
For example, in some areas of Uzbekistan, Tajikistan and Turkmenistan, ancient variants of melons still remain. Nowadays, modern high-yield breeding varieties are predominantly cultivated throughout the world. Today there are about 3,000.
When selecting seeds, the main attention is paid to the description and characterization of the variety, its zoning. For example, only a seedling method is suitable for growing melons in the Moscow region. And, according to the recommendations of experienced vegetable growers, the following varieties are most suitable for this region:
- Mohawk F1 is a medium-early melon with large (up to 2 kg) spherical yellow-green fruits covered with a net, the flesh has an orange color.
- Scythian gold is a medium early melon with large (1.5 kg) oval fruits of bright yellow color. Variety resistant to fungal diseases.
- Sweet pineapple is a mid-season large (3 kg) melon of an oval, oblong shape, with a yellow-orange peel covered with a fine net.
- Kolkhoznitsa is a middle-ripening variety of round, medium-sized (up to 1 kg) melons of soft yellow color with white flesh.
Melon varieties zoned for the suburbs:
- Early soil
- Early 133
- Aikido F1
- Gerda F1
- Lemon Yellow
From the existing variety of options it is worth choosing those that are suitable for a particular area, and also to take into account their descriptions and characteristics.
Threats for melons: pests and diseases
Melon is susceptible to diseases caused by fungi, bacteria and viruses. Infection can occur through seed, plant residues and soil. In patients with melons, the taste of the fruit and yield indicators are deteriorating.
Most often this culture is subject to the following diseases:
- powdery mildew
- downy mildew (peronosporosis)
- fusarium wilt
- cucumber mosaic virus
A symptom of the disease is the defeat of a gray-white bloom of leaves and stems. Damaged parts dry out and die off rapidly. Fruits on infected plants substandard, savory. The progression of the disease is suspended in cool weather and with moderate moisture. The most resistant varieties to powdery mildew: kolkhoz woman, Lemon yellow, Krasnodar B-17, Komsomolskaya Pravda, Novinka Kuban.
The causative agents of fusarium are soil bacteria and fungi. Infection occurs through the soil, seeds and the remnants of parts of plants. Melons are at risk of getting sick in all phases of development. Wilting can manifest instantly. In that case, the plant dies in just a couple of days.
The chronic form of fusarium is manifested by spotting on the leaves, twisting and drying the shoots. In the fight against withering, agrotechnical methods are used, as well as modern biological, chemical, and physical methods.
Infection can occur at any stage of melon development. The disease affects the whole plant. Brown and brown spots appear on the leaves and stems, in-depth spots on the fruits. The disease develops with a high night temperature and dew. Relatively resistant to bacteriosis varieties of melons: Gift, Thirty-Day, Bee.
This disease affects greenhouse plants. Manifested by stinging on the stems, spots on the edges of the leaves, damage to the root part.
The main pathogen on the melon is a cucumber mosaic virus. It carries with infected plants aphid. In affected melons, yield is reduced and taste is deteriorating. Virus is manifested by mosaic coloring of leaves, their deformation and the appearance of brown blisters.
Open ground melon processing
The diseased plant lags behind in growth, the ovaries fall on it, the young fruits become covered with dots, which, as they mature, become less visible. Melons can be affected at all stages of development. The following varieties are relatively resistant to the virus: Kolkhoz Woman, k-1895, Sary-Gulyabi, Ich-kzyl, Kokcha 588.
Plants damage not only diseases, but also pests. For example, a melon fly. It feeds on juice, piercing the fruit and laying eggs in it. The larvae develop in the pulp, making brown holes. Because of this, the fruit quickly rot. There are no varieties that would show resistance to the melon fly.
The natural enemies of this pest are ants. The old method of protection against a melon fly is to dig in small fruits into the ground.
When buying seeds worth paying attention to the resistance of plants to diseases and pests.
Before planting melons, take into account the properties of the soil. Planting this crop in a light, moderately moist soil prevents the development of fungal diseases and fruit rot. Compliance with the order of crop rotation improves the yield of melons. It is important to remember the predecessors and neighbors of this culture.
The best way to prevent the spread of disease to other plants is to burn infected bushes. Avoid the transfer of diseases of melons through the soil by resorting to seed treatment with dressing and disinfecting agents. For example, a solution of blue vitriol, potassium permanganate or industrial preparations such as "Formalin" and "Fundazoles".
Compliance with the simple rules of prevention and control of diseases and pests of melons allows you to save the crop from contamination and spoilage.
Harvesting and storage
Melon maturity is determined by its yellowness and, for some varieties, by the grid of cracks. For storage, select intact, ripe fruit with long tails. Melons are sorted by degree of maturity, laid out on the shelves in a single layer or hung in nets. In order to avoid infection with diseases they are treated with chalk or lime.
It is undesirable to store melons and other vegetables in the same room. They absorb all odors and get an unpleasant taste. The optimum temperature for storage is + 1 ... + 3 ° C, and the recommended humidity level is 70–80%. Under these conditions, melons are stored until February-March.
Growing melons is an easy process that even beginner gardeners can handle. Compliance with simple guidelines for planting and caring for them helps to obtain a good harvest of this crop in any conditions.
Cultivation of melons in the open field - on video:
Melon - the origin of the plant, its main characteristics
By origin melon - a plant of the pumpkin family, the species - cucumber. This gourd culture is a false berry. Homeland of melons is considered to be South India and Africa. Like all southern plants, the melon loves well-lit areas, it tolerates drought quite easily, but low air temperatures and excessive soil moisture are poorly tolerated by it.
Melon gives good yields, under optimal growing conditions on each stem can grow up and mature up to 8 fruits, the mass of each of them can reach from 1 to 10 kg. Their aging lasts from two months to six months.
Modern development of biologists and ongoing breeding work have led to the emergence of early varieties with a short growing season that are resistant to cold, so that the cultivation of melons in the open field, and yielding good results can be seen today in the middle lane quite often.
Growing melons - what conditions can be considered ideal
As we have recalled, for planting melon crops should be allocated unshadowed beds. The germination of seeds will require a temperature of +17 ° C, but higher rates are considered ideal - from +25 to 35 ° C. For the growth and active development of melons, you will need +25 - +30 C in the afternoon, and at least - +18 at night. It is necessary to exclude the possibility of overmoistening of the soil and air - otherwise the melon crops are threatened by serious diseases caused by fungi. The optimum humidity is about 60-70%.
Growing melons in the middle lane - how to choose the right seeds
The choice of melon seeds should be taken correctly: pay attention to hybrids and varieties that are resistant to temperature extremes, a short growing season, the rapid maturation of fruits. The selection of varieties with such characteristics on the shelves of seed shops is quite wide. It is possible to get high yields with excellent taste almost every year, of course, subject to the recommendations on agricultural cultivation.
Experts do not recommend growing Central Asian melons - in the middle zone they give bad shoots and weak bushes, their flowering does not differ in intensity, getting fruits is possible only in the case of an abnormally hot summer.
The best grades for the middle band are:
- hybrids of Aikido, Galileo, Golden Scythians, Cinderella, Polydor, Millennium,
- Iroquois, Agen, Sweet pineapple varieties.
They all differ:
- resistance to powdery mildew and fusarium infections,
- quite high sugar content, about 8-12%,
- fast ripening of fruits
- the mass of fruits, depending on growing conditions and variety, can be from 0.8 to 2 kg.
So, to get a tasty result, a melon should be planted for the middle band, the varieties of which we recalled above, the second prerequisite will be the creation of conditions suitable for its cultivation.
What conditions will be required to provide for the harvest
Normal growth of bushes will ensure the planting of light and medium loamy soils rich in organic additives, heavy loam and sandy soils can provide yield only if proper portions of mineral fertilizers are added, but in any case the taste qualities of the crop will be lower.
Melon is a southern plant, surprisingly, but it can withstand a rise in soil temperature up to +63 degrees C, and air - up to +43 degrees. At the same time, a decrease in air temperature to + 15 ° C will help to slow down growth, to + 10 ° C - its cessation, -1 ° C will cause the death of the plant. The optimum temperature for the development of melons is from +30 to + 40 ° C.
Melon prefers well-lit garden beds. The lack of light can lead to a significant gap in the flowering period of male and female flowers, which adversely affects the number of ovaries. Замедление фотосинтеза, которое наблюдается в пасмурную погоду приводит к снижению активности накопления сухих веществ и сахаров в плодах.
Подобные явления могут наблюдаться и в следствии искусственной затененности растений - в случае скученной высадки растений. Поэтому соблюдение положенной густоты высадки растений - условие обязательное.
Interestingly, with its light-loving melon cultures tend to earlier flowering at 12 hours of daylight, with an increase in daylight hours, the flowering period comes later. If the duration of the day reaches 8 hours - the plant slows growth.
The root system of melons is developed very well, reaches layers of soil in which even in heat moisture remains. The growth is almost not affected by the decrease in humidity. Melons can withstand drought, but timely watering and fertilizer application will increase yields.
For planting melons you can use the same beds for no more than two years. The best precursors for melons are the lands on which they were grown: winter wheat or barley, corn for silage, onions or cabbage. Planting crops at one site for 3-5 years in a row leads to soil depletion, lower yields, increases the incidence of plants to disease.
how to grow melon seedlings
To obtain high-quality seedlings will require planting seeds in pots - to prevent damage to the root system of plants is undesirable. To obtain a full seedling will take from 30 to 35 days. The diameter of the pots - 10 cm, in each of them can be planted on 2 grains. If untreated seeds are purchased, before planting, they are soaked for half an hour in a purple solution of potassium permanganate, then washed under running water. Germination of seeds is also practiced; it is especially effective if it is produced in a special solution of trace elements during the day.
Sow the seeds in the last days of April, when the seedlings are 30 days old, they are planted in the soil. During this period, frosts are practically not observed.
The best place for growing seedlings are greenhouses or greenhouses, but if there are none, you can use a window sill, or any suitable place, but with the organization of the backlight - a fluorescent lamp placed 15 cm above the seedlings.
A mixture of soil from a vegetable garden, loose humus is used as a soil for seedlings, it is advisable to add a half-liter jar of ash to the mixture bucket. If the soil is heavy add peat. The soil needs to be steamed, then it is added to:
- 1 teaspoonful of potassium sulfate
- 1 tablespoon of superphosphate.
Germinated seeds are sown to a depth of one and a half centimeters, covered with polyethylene, left at a temperature of +20 C.
A greenhouse or a greenhouse should provide reliable protection of plants from frost, adequate lighting. If a window sill is used for growing seedlings, then it will be necessary to provide for the possibility of hardening the plants.
Watering is done without letting water on the stems. For this, the soil around the stem should be formed conically. Watering requires moderate - if there is too much moisture - it will rot the hilar neck.
Feeding seedlings produced twice:
- the first one - with dissolved mullein (1:10) or bird droppings (1:15), with the addition of 1 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate,
- the second - with mineral fertilizers: Mortar or Kemira-universal.
The readiness of seedlings for planting is indicated by the presence of 4-5 real sheets in it.
how to plant seedlings in the ground
Return spring frosts can be observed before the onset of June, planting seedlings is not appropriate earlier. For the cultivation of melons in the open field, it is recommended to cultivate high beds (10-15 cm), 0.3-0.4 m wide, on such plants are planted in one row, or 0.9 m wide - in 2 rows.
The soil is carefully dug, while adding to each square meter:
- 1 bucket of compost or humus,
- 1 tbsp of superphosphate
- 1 teaspoon potassium sulphate
- 1 tsp urea.
The prepared bed is watered with a pink solution of potassium permanganate or copper sulfate (a tablespoon per 10 liter bucket of water). After drying, make the hole at a distance of 0.4 - 0.5 m, planted seedlings. Arcs over planted plants are covered with a film. The height and width of the arcs should be about 0.7 m. In the event of an unexpected decrease in the temperature of the arc over the film, additionally wrap with old polyethylene or with any materials that will prevent overcooling of the air under the film.
In warm sunny weather, the film should be opened for airing the plants. It is recommended to remove the film in the twentieth of June (weather conditions should be taken into account). During this period, flowering begins, for pollination you will need to open the access of insects to flowers.
After removing the film, the beds are weeded, the shoots are evenly distributed throughout their territory.
basic rules for the care of melons
Watering is done once a week, warmed up with water, under the root, avoiding soaking the root collar. In hot weather, watering is carried out in the evening, in cool in the morning. Loosening the soil will be needed after each irrigation, weeding should be stopped when the leaves of the plants close.
Watering plants is limited during the period when fruit ripening occurs.
The ovary of the fruit occurs on the side shoots, therefore, after the appearance of the sixth leaf, the main stem must be pinched - this will cause more active branching. Female-type flowers appear on the first or second side branch nodes.
After the formation of two or three fruits remove all appearing ovaries, and pinch the tops of the shoots. Side shoots without the ovary are removed - this will improve the illumination of plants.
Feeding is carried out through 1 or 2 irrigation. At the same time, nitrogen fertilizers should be strictly normalized - they cause too rapid growth of the vegetative mass, but significantly reduce the yield. Fertilizers are produced alternately with mineral and organic fertilizers. You can also use herbal infusions. Until the melons begin to bloom, you can add them with a solution of ammonium nitrate or mullein, the flowering period will require the use of complete mineral fertilizers.
Anxious symptom agronomists consider the increased growth of one of the fruits in the yellowing of all the others - this means that the plant does not receive sufficient nutrition. To correct the situation you will need to organize additional feeding. You can use the slurry (1:10) and urea. Periodically watering should be carried out with a solution of potassium permanganate.
How to grow melon seedlings at home?
Since all members of the pumpkin family do not like transplants because of the risk of damage to the roots, and the culture is very thermophilic, we must take into account that:
- the soil on the plot intended for melon should warm to 12–13 ° C,
- sowing in peat tablets or cups of small volume is carried out not earlier than two weeks before landing in the ground,
- in tanks of larger volume, seedlings can be up to 30 days.
For example, for the middle band for seedlings, it is acceptable to sow seeds in late April, then by June young plants should move to a permanent place.
The use of peat pots allows you to avoid transplant pain and save up to three weeks when growing melons in open field.
For growing seedlings make a soil mixture of equal parts:
- peeled peat,
- garden soil.
Before sowing, the soil is moistened and enriched with a complex fertilizer containing trace elements for melon growth. In each pot, 10–11 cm in diameter, two seeds are planted so that, depending on how the melon grows, in the photo, choose a stronger sprout and cut the weak one without damaging the root system.
To prevent the rot of young stems, the surface of the soil in the seedling pots sprinkled with a layer of clean sand.
To grow melons at home, they maintain a daily temperature of about 20 ° C, while at night the air can be cooled to 15 ° C. Watering for melon crops, including melon, requires moderate, as the topsoil dries.
Choosing and preparing the site
For the southern culture, who loves heat and sunlight in the open field, select the most illuminated, but closed from the draft and cold wind areas.
It is important that moisture does not stagnate on the melon site, otherwise rot and fungal plant diseases cannot be avoided.
At the same time for the cultivation of melons in the open field the soil is prepared in advance. In the fall of the future melon:
- digging no less than a spade bayonet,
- fertilized with organic matter, contributing 4-6 kg of humus or rotted manure per square meter.
Melon loves loose soils, so on loamy soils it is recommended to add river sand to the beds. In the spring, potash and phosphate fertilizers are added to the melon thistle.
Planting melon in the ground
The basic rules for growing melons in the open field are very simple:
- Young plants need protection from rain and cold.
- The quantity and quality of the crop depends on the correct formation of the plants, the removal of the tops of the lashes and the excessive ovary.
- A well-established irrigation schedule will help to get sweet, full-bodied fruits without cracks.
- Melon requires regular competent fertilizing.
Planting seedlings and seeds carried out at a distance of at least 60 cm from each other.
Seeds are buried by 5 cm, and, as with the seedling method, 2–3 seeds are put into the hole. An additional teaspoon of nitrophosphate or other nitrogenous fertilizer is added to the well, both under the seeds and under the seedlings.
If plants are planted in peat pots on bahtchu, the earthy soil should not be buried. After sprinkling with earth, it should slightly rise above the general level, only after that the plants are watered and the already wet soil is mulched with dry ground.
In the future, melon seedlings are better for the first time, while acclimatization is underway, shelter from the sun, rain and possible cooling. As the habituation takes place, the greenhouse is removed during the daytime, and at night the plants are hidden under the covering material again.
How to grow a melon at home
If you put a little effort and be patient, then a sweet melon can be cut from a plant that has grown on its own window sill or balcony. First of all, for the melon you will need to choose a pot or a container of sufficient capacity, with a diameter of at least 20 cm. Drainage is required at the bottom of the pot, and the soil can be used the same as used for planting seedlings.
If the growing beds on the spacious beds can lie quietly on the soil, then the melon can be grown at home only by using a trellis. As it grows, the lashes are fastened to it, but since the plant is in a limited volume of soil, it will be reasonable to grow a melon in one stem.
We must not forget that melons are extremely demanding of lighting, so the main reason for the failure of growing this crop on balconies, window sills or terraces is the lack of light. It can be compensated by organizing an additional LED backlight, which provides for the needs of plants for 14–16 hours per day.
To preserve moisture, prevent weeds from sprouting and keep the soil temperature at about 20–25 ° C, and the surface of the soil is lined with a special film or material. Moisture supply can be entrusted to the drip irrigation system by adding or reducing the amount of water supplied, depending on how the melon grows.
When home-grown melons become fist-sized, excess shoots, flowers and the top of the main whip are pinched. At home, one plant is better to leave no more than three ovaries, which are tied to a trellis using a mesh or soft fabric.