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Tunbergia: growing from seed at home

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Cultivated in the gardens of the species of this plant are divided into shrubs and climbing. The second group includes tunbergia winged (black-eyed tubergia) from South Africa, which is popularly called “black-eyed Susanna”.

This creeper reaches a height of 2 meters, has ovate (heart-shaped at the base) foliage up to 10 cm long with notches along the edges and bright yellow flowers with a diameter of 3 cm with a brownish spot in the center. Its long flowering begins in late summer or early fall.

Thunbergia Suzy It is a sortoseriyu with flowers of various colors:

  • Suzie veeb mit aug - with white flowers,
  • Suzy variety orange mit aug - bright orange,
  • Suzie gelb mit aug - yellow.

Thunbergia grandiflora (she - tunbergia grandiflora) is a powerful liana growing on the territory of India, with a wide oval jagged hair trimmed at the edges with bright green color up to 20 cm in length. Its racemes have few flowering inflorescences peculiar to diameter up to 8 cm, blue or purple color and a white spot in the throat.

Shrub species tunbergia erect, an unusual stalk of which does not exceed 2 meters.

Sort tunbergia mantle of the king stands with pointed to the top of the leaves and large dark purple flowers. Flowering continues throughout the year.

Tunbergia planting and care in the open field

Tunbergia is planted in open ground after the last spring frosts have passed at a mutual distance of 30-45 cm.

Before you start planting work, you should take care of the installation of wire support or lattice for the plant - on them liana tunbergia crawls up or into the sides (with a shrub type there is no need for this procedure). After landing, you need to water the area.

Ruellia or dipteracanthus is also a member of the Acanta family, it is grown mainly in the care of home conditions. Recommendations on the maintenance and care of this plant can be found in this article.

Watering Tunbergia

Watering plants should be moderate, with increased profusion at the beginning of flowering. Otherwise, not only flowers can be dropped, but foliage as well. Dry summer is recommended to carry out evening spraying water.

An optimum degree of soil moisture for tunbergy is considered to be one in which the soil dries out only slightly on the surface, while remaining wet. If you overdo it with volumes of water, it is possible that the roots will rot.

Tunbergia soil

The requirements for the soil, in general, enough. It should be fresh, no more than moderate dryness, permeable, saturated with lime and nutritious compounds, it is good to be saturated with moisture and to give it just as well.

The optimally suitable qualities are endowed with a mixture consisting of equal parts of sand, peat, humus, sod and leaf lands. Sometimes pine bark or coconut substrate is added to the soil (no more than a handful for half a bucket of earth).

Transplantation

Tunbergia transplantation is best done in the second half of May. This procedure is relevant mainly in the distillation of the house, as in the open field in our conditions, the plant lives only one season. Nevertheless, the instructions presented later in the article will allow keeping it in winter, as a result of which transplantation will become far from useless.

The pot needs to be picked up quite spacious in depth and width. Suitable soil mixture, described a little earlier or ready from a flower shop. At the bottom of the pot it is necessary to equip the drainage using expanded clay or natural stones. After planting, the plant must be watered.

Despite the fact that Tunbergia can be grown as a perennial, many gardeners annually throw away faded tubers due to the fact that after winter and the preceding abundant flowering the plant loses its strength and probably will not be pleased with such brightness and pomp next year. Be that as it may, tunbergia fits perfectly into the décor with hanging baskets, and the overall copies are quite widely used in the vertical design of the greenhouses.

Tunbergia Crop

The beauty and density of the crown are provided by pinching young stems. Spring pruning of elongated shoots is performed in order to prevent their exposure and, accordingly, damage to the overall appearance of the plant.

Tunbergia in winter

Tunbergia will not survive the winter in any way; therefore, grown in open ground, it is disposed of in autumn.

Wintering in this case is possible only under the condition of cutting all stems to 4-5 buds before winter, treating cuts with a solution of potassium permanganate and moving the plant to a home environment (it should be located in a cool place with a temperature of no more than 15 until spring). Houses need to periodically irrigate the surface of the soil in a pot, not allowing it to dry out, but no more.

Tunbergia seed growing

The reproduction of tunbergia by seeds is carried out by sowing them in boxes in February and subsequent diving before planting on a plot in open ground.

Seed germination lasts no more than 2 years. A plant planted in this way, as usual, comes into bloom 100 days after pinching.

Reproduction of tunbergia by cuttings

For reproduction of tunbergia, cuttings will be needed in mid-August to cut green cuttings 8–10 cm long. Each slice is then processed in phytohormones, assisting the black-eyed Susanna to adapt to the environmental conditions.

After that, they are placed in pots with a slightly wet ground (watered the day before planting) and covered with plastic bags or bags. It is recommended to keep cuttings at a temperature of 20-22 ℃, and for the winter it is necessary to provide lower degrees - about 10-12.

Diseases and pests

The most annoying tunbergia pests are pincers. Their presence determines the changed color of the foliage, which becomes silvery-transparent, as well as punctures in the lumen of the sheet and fine white dust, similar to dandruff, mostly manifested on the underside of the sheet.

The main reason for the defeat is excessively dry air. If the plant was severely affected due to an attack, it is necessary to treat it with acaricides such as actellic and fufan.

In addition to ticks, Tunbers are dangerous. scythe, aphid and whiteflies. An effective measure for the prevention and control of them is the treatment with soapy water or insecticides 4 times with an interval of 7-10 days. In general, tunbergia is a pest / disease-resistant plant subject to the rules of care, especially watering.

Tunbergia flowers Description

Culture is a liana, reaching an average of 2-2.5 m in height. The leaves may be egg-shaped or heart-shaped, soft to the touch and slightly lowered. Flowers grow as individuals, and collected in inflorescences. The diameter of the inflorescences is about 4 cm. Some varieties have a delicate, slightly perceptible scent.

Homeland of this plant are warm countries - Tropics of Africa and Asia. In this climate, the culture grows as a perennial. However, given the climate of our latitudes, it is grown in Russia as an annual type of plant. The name acquired in honor of the naturalist who brought culture to Europe - Karl Peter Thunberg. Flowering continues for a long time - from mid-summer to the first autumn cold.

Interesting! At home, the variety amber spelled tunbergia can be grown as a perennial.

Types and varieties

Four types of tunnels are popular among florists:

  1. Fragrant - is an evergreen vine, capable of reaching 6 meters in height. The leaves on the upper side have a dark green shade, ovoid shape, and on the bottom - a light green shade with white veins in the center. Flowers form on single stems, about 5 cm in diameter, mostly white in color with a slight alluring scent.
  2. Blue or large-flowered. It has curly stems, bright green leaves, the edges of which are decorated with wide teeth. Small buds are collected in inflorescences of lilac or blue with a white center.
  3. Battiscomba is a broadleaf liana with blue flowers, the petals of which are decorated with a net.
  4. Winged - the most popular variety. Liana with long leaves has single buds of a wide variety of colors. Each flower has a black or dark purple middle. Flowering lasts from August to September.

Three varieties of winged vines are common:

  • Gregor - consists of 15 varieties of orange tint, not having a characteristic black eye in the center,
  • Suzy - varietal series, combining flowers of different shades: white, orange, pale yellow,
  • Afrikan Sunset is a variety that blooms throughout the summer season in a beautiful terracotta color.

Informative! In addition to the varieties listed above, varieties of mizorenian, laurellea, and related are often grown. In addition to the cultivated varieties, shrub species are also known: Vogel, upright, Natal.

The necessary conditions

Tunbergia is a light-loving plant, but fears the direct rays of the sun. A well-lit place should be prepared for planting, but with natural sunlight. Usually such conditions are present in the south-western directions of the windows. With the observance of the rules, the first shoots will spill a week later.

Seed dates

The plant is quite thermophilic and will not survive even the slightest hint of cold. If you want to get flowering on time, the seeds must be sown closer to the end of February. You can also spend the crops in March.

Seed preparation for sowing

Existing seed before planting can be sorted, to sort. Visually select the empty and missing grain, as well as get rid of debris or husk. The culture has poor germination, which is why experienced gardeners recommend soaking seeds in a growth promoter before sowing. This procedure will allow the seeds to come up faster and better. Not bad drug has proven to stimulate growth "Epin" or "Fumar."

Seeding Tanks

If possible, it is advised to sow seedlings in peat cups or tablets. Using such containers, the risk of injury to the root system during transplantation will decrease and saplings adapt more quickly when transferred to open ground. But you can use other available containers: wooden boxes, plastic containers, disposable cups. Tanks should be shallow and have drainage holes.

Soil (composition, characteristics)

The soil for sowing can be purchased at specialized flower shops or prepared independently. For crops, it is necessary to mix leaf soil with sand and humus. Even taking into account the established reserve of nutrients in the seeds, it is better to carry out the procedure of fertilization with compost with the addition of peat. The soil must have the ability to quickly pass water, be loose and airy.

Seedlings care

After the seeding procedure is completed, the containers are covered with glass or plastic wrap. Put on a warm well-lit place. But it should be remembered that the seedlings should not fall direct rays of the sun. The temperature in the room must be maintained at 23-24 degrees. Then the first shoots will delight in 5-7 days. At temperatures below 20 degrees, seedlings will spawn only after 20-25 days.

Also crops need regular airing and disposal of condensate. The emergence of shoots signals the possibility of removing the shelter and the ability of shoots to continue to grow independently. At the same time, containers can be transferred to a room where the air temperature is slightly lower than that required for crops. Additional feeding seedlings are not needed. Sometimes, to impart a “marketable” type, shoots are fertilized with nitrogen-containing fertilizer complexes. It gives thick and powerful greens.

When to plant seedlings in the ground

You can transfer young plants to the ground in mid-May and early June. By this time, the seedlings will gain strength and health, will be ready to adapt to the new place of growth. More precise time of transplant depends on the climate in a particular region and the sowing period for seedlings. If the long-awaited warmth has not come to the specified period, then you should wait with the transfer of shoots to a new place, otherwise all young sprouts will perish during the first cooling.

The choice of a place for planting, soil

The area for growing seedlings should be on the south, west or east side. It is preferable that it be slightly shaded, protected from drafts and gusts of wind. Soil for growing tunbergia should be:

  • nutritious,
  • well drained
  • neutral,
  • with a small admixture of lime.

Before planting, the soil must be moistened, loosened, fed with humus or special fertilizer complexes.

How to plant tunbergia

When transferring seedlings to open ground, it is necessary to respect the distance between the beds of 20 cm, and between the holes at 45 cm. Such a planting scheme allows the seedlings to grow in breadth. Next to the beds it is necessary to install supports on which the plant will be able to trail. It can be a grid, wire or a special arch for climbing varieties of plants.

Planting should be carried out quite carefully, trying not to damage the dugout, which protects the roots. Planted shoots to a depth of 1.5-2 cm, lightly sprinkled on top of the ground and slightly rammed.

Informative! To prevent the growth of annoying weeds, the surface of the soil under each bush is covered with mulch.

Care of a plant in an open ground (watering, top dressing, tying up)

Tunbergia, although it belongs to the undemanding species, but during the growth still needs some care. The plant likes watering, however it must be correct. Avoid stagnant water or dry soil. In the dry season, not only watering but also irrigation of the bushes occurs in the evenings when the heat subsides.

During the flowering period is very important constant soil moisture. If the ground is dry, leaves will fall. A bush can be affected by spider mites. At the end of flowering reduce watering.

You can feed the plant during the formation of buds. You can use mineral fertilizers. They are diluted in accordance with the instructions, added to the water for watering every week. However, if there is no special need for this, then it is better not to abuse additional fertilizers. Then the bloom will be more long and lush.

To extend the flowering period, it is necessary to regularly remove dried buds and leaves. For a beautiful shape of the bush, you can trim it, removing unnecessary shoots, or regularly send in the right direction.

Know! If there is a surplus of fertilizers in the soil, the bushes will produce strong dense greens, and the flowering will be small and scarce.

Possible problems with growing

With proper care and watering, tunbergia is resistant to diseases and pests. All possible problems arise after violation of the rules of care. With an insufficient amount of moisture, dropping of buds is observed. With an excess - the plant begins to become covered with mold. Lack of light affects the color of the leaves - they become a pale green hue.

Flower care during and after flowering

During flowering it is strictly forbidden to use any type of fertilizer. This will result in shredding buds and a decrease in inflorescences. With flowering, watering increases, because with a lack of moisture, the culture will start dropping buds. Also, wilted buds are regularly removed.

After flowering, you can trim a flower. It is necessary to cut only weak stems or too thick. Cut off at the very beginning, constantly directing in the necessary direction. If you carry out pruning young plants, it can adversely affect the abundance of flowering.

How to collect seeds

Culture pollinated by bees. In place of the buds, seed boxes are formed. The boxes are harvested before they open, to avoid spilling the contents on the ground. The collected boxes are well dried, then opened, and the seeds are collected in paper bags. The collected seed retains its germination for two years, but in the second year it can be much less sprouting.

Remember! When buying seeds, it is important to track the date of packaging. You should not buy seed in the markets and open trays, as it is likely to get frozen seeds with poor germination.

Black-eyed winged black-eyed Susannah growing from seed

Winged tunbergia is most common among fans of this culture. It is a climbing sight, it can reach a height of 3 meters. The color of buds can vary from a snow-white shade to a bright orange color. Flowers in diameter can be 3-4 cm. Flowering begins in early summer and lasts until the first frost.

The winged tunbergia variety is better known as the Black-eyed Susanna. This name is a flower received due to the distinctive feature of the inflorescences - black, or rather the dark blue eye in the center of the flower. Quite often you can find on sale a color mixture of this class. This allows you to get a chic multicolored arch blooming miracle. For sowing requires nutrient soil with low acidity. Всхожесть зерен у данного сорта достаточно высокая, но на первые всходы может уйти около двух недель. Поэтому семена высеивают в начале февраля.

Тунбергия крылатая отлично подходит для выращивания в домашних условиях, на балконах и оранжереях. Главное организовать прочную опору, по которой смогут виться стебли. Variety Black-eyed Suzanne loves a lot of light, growing in a shaded place will lead to slow growth and rare flowering.

Conclusion

Tunbergia is a favorite with all lovers of flowering varieties. Having sufficient simplicity and elegant flowering, wins the hearts of even inexperienced gardeners. Subject Tunbergia seed growing from key points is similar to all annuals. Even if the plant is found for the first time, breeding is not difficult if you have experience in floriculture.

Tunbergia: plant description

Thunbergia Black eyed susanna grown by growers, as a climbing vine, or as an upright shrub. Also popular is the species of tunbargia ampelnoe, which is often divorced in hanging pots.

The plant has oval or heart-shaped, slightly downy leaves. Some species have characteristic notches on the edges of the leaves. Flower is different a variety of motley flowers. The flowering period is long and lasts from July to the middle or the end of October. During this period, the plant produces a pronounced aroma.

The native land of this plant is tropical African and Asian forests. The flower was named after naturalist and botanist Karl Peter Thunberg. It was he who introduced the European inhabitants with this unique plant. In Europe, the winged tuniberia liana received the second name - Black-eyed Suzanne. This name appeared thanks to the black peephole in the center of the flowers of the plant.

In the wild, it grows like perennial. If the plant has fallen into cold climate conditions, then its cultivation takes place as an annual plant through the production of bushes from seeds. As a perennial, tunbergia can grow at home and in greenhouses.

Cultivation from seeds and rules of care for lianas in the garden plot

Tunbergia, the cultivation of seeds of which involves the observance of certain rulesIt is considered nevertheless an unpretentious plant.

  1. Before planting, the seeds of the culture are usually soaked in solutions of either fumara or epin.
  2. For seeding, you need to pick up shallow vessels. Before planting and start growing, the vessels should be filled with a sod mixture mixed in equal proportions with sand and peat. Seeds need to be spread over the surface, sprinkled with a layer of the same ground by no more than 0.5 cm, and moistened with a spray gun.
  3. When working with crops of tunnelers, you cannot use watering cans or any other devices that give a dense jet. Use only a spray gun, otherwise the soil may blur, and the seeds will be outside.
  4. Boxes cover with a thick film or glass and put a well-lit and warm place (23-24 degrees). It is necessary to monitor the crops, protecting them from sun. This is to prevent the greenhouse effect. After a week, you can expect the appearance of the first shoots. As soon as this happens, the film should be immediately removed and the boxes should be moved to a cooler place for 6-7 days.

If the crops have risen too thick, then they need to dive in the phase of 2-3 true leaves or thin out them. When the tubergia seedlings rise to 15 cm, pinching the tops is produced. This technique helps the formation of lateral shoots.

To accelerate the growth of seedlings from seed and count on the formation of thick green leaf mass, it is necessary to feed the vine iodine-containing drugs. However, if your goal is to obtain abundant and long flowering, then you can confine at the beginning of the cultivation only one nitrogen supplement.

To avoid not picking a plant, you can use the reception of experienced flower growers and plant three seeds of tunbergia in peat cups.

Landing in open ground

Seedlings in the usual way in the middle of May are planted in open ground. By planting seedlings of this plant will be ready by the middle of May days. At this time, as a rule, already stabilized enough warm weather for her. But if the heat has not yet been established, then you should not rush to disembark, because otherwise the flowers will die at the first frost.

Tunbergia prefers a bit shady placewhich is protected from drafts and winds. The soil for it must be chosen light, with good breathability and not acidic. Slaked lime is obligatory on the site.

Young sprouts should be planted at a distance of at least 40-45 cm from each other. And this should already be pre-installed support for a convenient location of the shoots. For these purposes, suitable special arches or gratings of wire or slats, on which the shoots of vines can easily climb up.

Basic rules for caring for tunneling in the open field

In order to properly care for tunbergia, it is necessary to pay enough attention. watering, feeding and pruning. Watering it should be moderate, but regularly. The soil should be moderately moist, but not wet. During the flowering period, the amount of moisture needs to be increased, because with a lack of moisture the plant will quickly drop buds.

When establishing dry and hot weather, watering should be combined with spraying. This procedure is carried out in the evening to avoid leaf burn.

Top dressing tunbergias carry out monthlyFor this purpose, mineral mixtures are used for ornamental flowering plants. It should be noted that during the flowering period, you should not feed tunbergia with mixtures containing nitrogen. This can cause too intense growth of foliage and greenery at the expense of flowering.

During the growth of flower growers pay attention formation bush. To do this, they send shoots in the right direction. Dying and weak and shoots and wilted flowers must be removed in time from the green plantings.

Spider mite, aphid, whitefly

These parasitic pests can be fought with “improvised means”: with the help of soap diluted in water.

Tunbergia diseases are associated only with violation of watering rules. With an insufficient level of moisture, the vine begins to buds, and when it is watered excessively, mold begins to appear on its leaves. Lack of light and sun leads to brightening of the foliage.

Sticky patches and black dots

The appearance of sticky or white patches and black spots on leaves and stems is usually the result of infection. spider mite, whitefly and aphids. Pests are destroyed, as stated, with the help of soap diluted in water. You can also use an alcohol solution. Spraying is carried out every 14 days.

When and how is the seed harvested

Tunbergia is a pollinated plant that forms seed pods in places of former flowers. The collection of seed boxes should occur before they spontaneously, naturally, unfold.

This is done so that they do not spill out onto the ground and do not germinate out of place in the future on their own. The collected boxes are dried, and then opened and poured the contents into paper bags.

The seeds of this plant are able to survive for two years, but it should be borne in mind that in the second year the number of specimens capable of germination is significantly reduced. Therefore, if you do not collect seed harvest yourself, and prefer to buy seeds in stores, be sure to follow the shelf life.

Otherwise, plants from purchased and expired material simply will not grow. Moreover, is necessary take into account the conditions under which the seed was stored. You should not buy seeds from open trays, because they may be frozen, which also suggests that you can not wait for seedlings.

Wintering of container species of tunbergia

Only tunbergia grown in containers or in flowerpots are able to winter at home. The vessel with the plant is entered into the room, cutting pre-shoots. When pruning, it is necessary to leave on the stems of 4-6 buds.

In places of trimming a plant is necessary spray with potassium permanganate solution and store in a cool (plus 1–15 degrees) place until spring comes. During the winter, the soil is slightly moistened no more than two or three times.

It is important to bear in mind that tunbergia that has been grown in a flower bed will not be able to overwinter

Tunbergia in landscape design

Tunia is often used to decoration and decoration walls and fences gazebos. You can add to the composition with the tunbergy:

Curly Tunbergia species (lianas) in vertical gardening Landscape designers recommend combining with the following types of plants:

Setting vertical support in the middle of the lawn in the form pyramids for vertical tunbergia and plants that are added to it as an accompanying decorative elements, are able to make original sculpture compositions. Often, they can be found in the best gardens and verandas.

Flower description

Tunbergia is an abundantly blossoming vine. In our conditions, it is grown in open ground as a letnik, in greenhouses and in an apartment - as a perennial plant. Scourge reach a length of 2.5 meters. Leaves with soft pubescence lobed opposite or whole heart-shaped (ovate). In Tunbergia root is quite powerful and branched land shoots.

The bisexual flowers have a funnel-shaped form and a variety of colors; they can be up to 4 cm in diameter. There are varieties with purple, white, bright orange, yellow, crimson flowers growing alone or in inflorescences.

Some species during the flowering emit aroma. Flowering is long: the first buds bloom in July, the last - in the autumn on the eve of frost. By the end of the season round-shaped seed boxes form on the vine. Seeds have time to ripen, their diameter is about 4 mm, they have an oblong shape, brown color and are covered with a skin that is rough to the touch.

Black-eyed Suzanne

Strongly branching vine with a length of 1.5 to 2 meters. It blooms from July to September with yellow and orange flowers from 3 to 5 cm in diameter. For receiving a magnificent bush the top of a stalk above 3 leaves is pinched.

Intensively growing liana with heart-shaped leaves of large size, large flowers of straw or yellow-cream color and dark purple heart.

Sort Susie

On sale you can find varietyy Susie, combining groups of varieties according to the color of the flowers:

  • Susi Yellow - yellow,
  • SusiAfricanSanset - terracotta,
  • Susi Weib mit Auge - white.

For flower growers, T. Gregor will be of interest, about 15 varieties of lianas with flowers in shades of orange without a dark eye are included in this variety series.

Planting and care for tunbergia (in short)

  • Landing: sowing seeds for seedlings at the end of winter or at the beginning of spring, transplanting seedlings into the ground in the second half of May.
  • Bloom: abundant from mid to late summer.
  • Lighting: penumbra.
  • The soil: nutritious, well drained, containing lime, neutral.
  • Watering: moderate, during flowering - plentiful. Evening spraying is recommended as needed during drought.
  • Top dressing: once a month with a solution of mineral fertilizers.
  • Garter: The plant is desirable to put on the wire or grating.
  • Reproduction: seed.
  • Pests: aphid, whitefly, spider mites and shchitovki.
  • Diseases: fungal, due to excessive soil moisture and poor air circulation.

Tunbergia flower - description

Tunbergia plant can be a vine or shrub with whole heart-shaped or ovate, as well as lobed opposite leaves with soft pubescence from 2.5 to 10 cm long, in some species, the edges of the leaves are notched. Voronkovidnye beautiful flowers tunbergiya up to 4 cm in diameter on long stalks, single or collected in inflorescence, have different colors - white, blue, blue, purple, purple, purple, yellow, orange or brown. There is even tunbergia red. In some species and varieties, flowers emit a strong fragrance. Tunbergia blooms from July to late September. In nature, a tubergia plant is a perennial, but in our climate, growing tubergium in the open ground as a perennial plant is impossible because of our cold winters; therefore, tubergia curly is cultivated as a pendulum and is often used for vertical gardening, since height. On the other hand, ambernaya tunbergia is successfully grown as a perennial in home or greenhouse conditions.

  • Seeding Tunbergia.

    Tunbergia seed propagation occurs in late winter or early spring. Seeds are treated with epin or fumara and sown in containers with moist soil consisting of turf soil, peat and sand (or leaf soil, sand and humus) in equal proportions, sprinkled with a thin layer of earth, which is gently moistened. To create a greenhouse effect, crops are covered with glass or plastic film and placed on a warm, well-lit window sill, where direct sunlight does not reach. It is very important to ensure that the ground is always slightly wet. The temperature for successful germination of seeds is 22-24 ºC. Under all conditions, the seeds will begin to germinate within a week, and then the cover can be removed.

    Seedlings of tunbergia.

    If the seedlings grow densely, then when two true leaves appear, they need to be picked out or thinned out, leaving the strongest specimens in the container. When the seedlings reach a height of 12-15 cm, in order to enhance the branching, they pinch the tops of the seedlings. If you need a powerful and dense green mass, feed the seedlings from the time of the picking once a week with nitrogen-containing fertilizer, but if you are hoping for a lush and long flowering, do not fertilize the seedlings at all. For those who do not want to mess around with picking tunbergia, it is better to sow it not into containers or into boxes, but into peat cups of three seeds each.

    When to plant tunbergia.

    When will the last spring frosts, it is time to plant seedlings in open ground. Find a shaded and windproof spot on the south, east, or west side of the tunnel. Tunbergia prefers a neutral, nutritious, well-drained, calcareous soil, therefore, if necessary, add lime to the area before digging.

    How to plant tunbergia.

    The landing of the tunbergia is done in such a way that the distance from 30 to 45 cm is maintained between the specimens. Before landing the tunbergia, it is necessary to establish supports for it - wire or grating, which the creeper will crawl up or to the sides of. After planting the site watered. Tunbergia blooms from seeds, usually one hundred days after pinching.

    How to grow tunbergia.

    Tunbergia care is simple. Watering the plant should be moderate, and from the beginning of flowering, watering should become abundant, otherwise the tubergia will start dropping not only the buds, but also the leaves. In dry summer, the plant will gratefully respond to spraying water in the evening. Mandatory dressing is carried out during the budding period, and throughout the spring-summer season, the tubergia is fertilized monthly with liquid mineral fertilizers, observing the golden rule: everything is good in moderation. Remove weak shoots and wilted flowers, in time send the tunbergia in the right direction. As you can see, landing and caring for tunbergia can even be a beginner.

    Pests and Tunbergia diseases.

    Most often tunbergia is inhibited by spider mites, scutes, and whitefly, sometimes it suffers from aphids. All these pests are destroyed by spraying the plant with drugs such as actellic and fitoderm, with a break between treatment sessions, which can be no more than four, a week and a half. Sometimes tunbergia suffers from fungal diseases, which treat fungicides, affected leaves and flowers should be removed.

    It may happen that mold appears on the stems, shoots, and leaves of the tunnel, and this indicates that you overdo it with watering. And rarely growing foliage says that you have chosen too shady a place for tunbergia - it lacks light.

    How and when to collect seeds of tunbergia.

    When the flowering of the tunbergia is complete, instead of flowers, fruit-boxes with seeds are formed on it, and they need to be collected before they open and the contents wake up on the ground. Indoors, the boxes are opened, the seeds are poured on paper and dried, and then stored in paper bags or cardboard boxes. Tunbergia seeds do not lose their germination for two years.

    Winged Thunbergia (Thunbergia alata)

    - the same black-eyed Susanna, which was described above. Growing winged tunbergia was the basis for the chapter on care for tunbergia. Blooms tunbergia winged in August and September. In culture - since 1823. Grades:

    • tunberg suzy - sortoseriya with flowers of different colors: Susi Weib mit Auge - Tunbergia white, Susi Orange mit Auge - with bright orange flowers, Susi Gelb mit Auge - with yellow flowers,
    • African sunset - terracotta tunbergia, blooming throughout the summer,
    • tunbergia gregor - a group consisting of 15 varieties of all shades of orange color, which do not have an eye in the middle of the flower, but this does not make them look less attractive,

    Tunbergia grandiflora (Thunbergia grandiflora), grandiflora tunbergia, tunbergia blue

    - a powerful herbaceous plant from India with climbers, wide-oval bright green leaves, reaching a length of 15-20 cm, with large teeth at the edges and pubescent on the underside of the leaf plate. Голубые или фиолетовые цветки до восьми сантиметров в диаметре с белым пятном в зеве собраны в кистевидные малоцветковые соцветия,

    Тунбергия душистая (Thunbergia fragrans)

    – вечнозеленая лиана из Австралии и Юго-Восточной Азии, достигающая в длину шести метров. The leaves are opposite, ovate, with a pointed tip, dark green in color from the upper side of the plate and light green with a white median vein from below. White large single flowers, wide open, up to 5 cm in diameter, with two bracts, have a pleasant aroma,

    Thunbergia battiscombe (Thunbergia battiscombei)

    with wide leaves, blue flowers with a clearly visible mesh on the petals.

    In addition to those listed in the culture, they are also grown in such tunbergia-lianas: laurel-bearing, related, mizoren.

    From shrub species cultivated tunbergia upright, Natal, Vogel.

    Tunbergia features

    Tunbergia is represented by both shrubs and lianas. Whole ovoid or heart-shaped, and still oppositely disposed lobed leaf plates have a non-rigid pubescence and reach 2.5-10 centimeters in length. There are species in which the edge of the leaves is jagged. The diameter of the spectacular flowers is 40 mm, they have a funnel shape and long stem. They can be single or part of the inflorescences. The flowers have a variety of colors, for example, they can be painted in blue, purple, purple, orange, white, blue, purple, yellow and brown. There are even species with red flowers. There are certain types and varieties of tunbergia from which flowers emanate a very strong smell. Flowering begins in July and ends in the last days of September. Under natural conditions, tunbergia is a perennial, but in mid-latitudes, due to too frosty winters, it is cultivated as an annual. Often such a flower is used for vertical gardening, because if it is supported, the bush can grow up to 200 centimeters in height. The amber gum thunberg is usually grown indoors or in greenhouses as a perennial plant.

    Growing Tunbergia from Seed

    It is necessary to sow the seeds of tunbergia at the end of the winter or at the beginning of the spring period. Immediately before sowing, seeds should be treated with fumara or epin. Then they sow in a tank with a moistened soil mixture, which includes peat, turf ground, sand (or sand, leaf soil and humus), which must be taken in a 1: 1 ratio: 1. Seeds should be sprinkled with a thin layer of substrate, and then the crops carefully watered. Then the containers should be covered with film or glass and put away on the window sill, which should be well lit, but do not forget to protect the crops from direct sunlight. Remember that the substrate in the containers must be constantly slightly moist. In order for seedlings to appear as quickly as possible, they should be placed in a place where the air temperature will be between 22 and 24 degrees. If done correctly, the first shoots can be seen within 7 days after sowing. As soon as this happens, remove the shelter.

    If the seedlings are excessively thick, then after the formation of 2 true leaf plates, it will be necessary to thin them out, and the weakest seedlings should be removed. You can also pick them up. In order for the bushes to be more branchy and thick, they nip the seedlings after their height is 12–15 centimeters. In the event that it is important for you that the bushes have a lush green mass, then after you do the picking, feed the seedlings 1 time in 7 days with fertilizers containing nitrogen. Those who are important long and abundant flowering, it should be noted that the feeding of seedlings should not be carried out at all. In order to avoid picking, it is recommended that seeding be done in peat cups, while 3 seeds should be laid in 1 at once.

    What time to land

    Planting of seedlings in open soil is made after frost is bypassed. For disembarkation, you should choose a site on the east, south or west side of the garden, which should be in a slight shade and have protection from wind gusts. The soil should be well drained, neutral, rich in nutrients and lime. In this connection, if it is necessary, then in advance, inject lime into the section to the site.

    Landing features

    When making the landing holes, it should be remembered that the distance between them should vary from 0.3 to 0.45 m. Do not forget to install the support before planting the seedlings, for this they use a grid or wire. It should be noted that this vine can grow both up and to the side. Planted plants need to be watered. Flowering usually begins 100 days after pinching.

    Care features

    It is easy and cost effective to care for tunbergia. At first, it needs moderate watering, and when flowering begins, it is abundant, with a lack of water it can be observed that the leaf sheets and buds subside. If in the summer there is a long dry period, it will not be superfluous to spray the bushes with water, this should be done in the evening. Be sure the plants need to feed at the time of the appearance of buds. During the spring and summer they need to be fed 1 time in 4 weeks, using liquid mineral fertilizer for this, but remember that in this case the main thing is not to overdo it. Regularly remove weak stems and flowers that have begun to fade. Do not forget to direct the stems in the right direction.

    When to plant seedlings?

    Already at the end of winter you can start preparing seeds for growing seedlings. The best time for sowing is February. From the seeds that were sown in the second half of February, grows strong and viable seedlings. By the end of June, saplings planted at the end of May in the ground, increase a large number of shoots. Not critical, if the seeds did not come up in February, attempts can be continued until April.

    Land and Seed Preparation

    Before planting, the seeds are pre-treated with growth stimulants (Epin, Fumar). Some growers prefer to germinate them before sowing, others sow immediately in peat tablets or cups. Poor germination is only in old seeds.

    The seeds are quite large, so working with them is easy. It is better to germinate in a paper napkin dipped in water. Before the roots appear, place the seeds in a plastic container with an airtight lid. For seedlings to prepare an earth mixture, in its composition should be present:

    Seedlings can be grown in boxes. Plant not a lot, so as not to have it thinned out. To do this, it is better to observe the planting step of 3-5 cm. The seeds are quite large, so you can safely sprinkle them with a layer of soil of 1.5 cm. When sowing in cups, sow 3 seeds each.

    Before the appearance of germs, boxes (cups) should be hermetically sealed with cling film. For seed germination in the room should be about 20 ° C. The first shoots should be made by the end of the second week.

    Seedling care

    Caring for seedlings is reduced to watering, they should be regular. Feeding can be avoided if the development of young plants goes well, there are no signs of nutritional deficiencies. Nitrogen supplements are used if you need a large amount of leaves and shoots. Flowering nitrogen removes, since all the forces of the vine are spent on the formation of green mass.

    Growing seedlings can be thinned out if they are planted too closely. When the seedlings reach 15 cm you will need to pinch the top of the head. Pinching stimulates the growth of lateral shoots and allows you to get fluffy bushes.

    Planting in open ground

    Worried in advance about the support for vines. Even before planting seedlings in the ground, they establish a support wire or from slats (wooden, plastic). Tunbergia grows best on the south and south-west side of the garden. Light shading is acceptable, but drafts are absolutely contraindicated.

    Soil requirements are simple:

    • drained
    • neutral,
    • moderately fertile.

    Sour soils are deoxidized in the fall, adding lime to the normal amount. The soil before planting is well digged. Holes, when landing landing have no closer than 30 cm from each other. Planted seedlings watered, the soil around the bushes sprinkled with mulch. The plant is thermophilic, so plan to transplant it into the ground at the end of May - the beginning of June. Frosts liana will not survive.

    Tunbergia care

    Healthy seedlings after transplantation is quickly accepted and begins to grow actively. The nuances of care that you need to know relate to watering, fertilizing, the formation of the bush. The requirements for care are light, so even a novice gardener can easily cope with them:

    1. In irrigation, the main thing - regularity. During flowering, they should be more abundant. A sign of lack of moisture - the flower began to drop buds and leaves crumble. The ground under the bushes should be constantly wet, but not too wet. Excess moisture provokes root rot. In order to regulate the soil moisture, a coconut substrate can be added to it during planting.
    2. The plant likes moist air, so in dry and hot weather the leaves in the evenings need to be irrigated with warm water.
    3. Once a month, feed the flower with a complex flower fertilizer. In the month when the buds begin to form, you can conduct up to 2 dressings. Check out fertilizer in September.
    4. Liana inspect, remove faded flowers and leaves, it is necessary for prolonged flowering.
    5. Young shoots forced to send in the right direction, fixing them on a support. Extra shoots and loose cut. Practice nipping young shoots for a more dense crown.

    How to collect your seeds

    If you plan to collect your seeds, then part of the first flowers should be left on the bushes. By the fall, seed boxes will be formed instead. When ripe, they easily break out, and the seeds fall to the ground.

    To avoid this, the boxes in time to collect or put on them mesh bags of fine natural fabric. For storage, seeds are poured out of the boxes onto paper and dried. Store dry seeds in paper bags in a dark room. Germination persists for 2 years.

    Lianas growing in vases, put in a cool room (15 ° C). Most of the shoots are cut. On the remaining branches should be no more than 5 buds. Each section must be decontaminated; a pink manganese solution is suitable for this purpose.

    During the winter, occasionally moisturize only the top layer of the earth. Liana, growing in the ground, it makes sense to utilize the winter, in any case, it will not survive. If you have time and desire, the bush can be cut and transplanted into a large pot. Save until spring according to the scheme already described.

    Diseases and pests

    Very often, shchitovki, spider mites and the whitefly inhabit the bushes, and aphids can also harm the plant. In order to get rid of these pests, it is necessary to treat the plants with a flyoderm or aktellik. If necessary, such processing can be repeated 3 or 4 times, while the duration of the break between these procedures should be from 7 to 10 days. In some cases, the disease occurs fungal diseases. The infected foliage and flowers need to be cut off and destroyed, and the bush treated with fungicides.

    If you water the tunbergia very abundantly, then molds form on its leaves and shoots. If the foliage on the stems is very rare, it means that the vine is feeling the lack of light.

    Seed collection

    At the end of flowering, where the flowers used to flaunt, the fruit-boxes grow, inside which there are seeds. They need to be collected before they unfold themselves, and their contents will be poured out onto the surface of the site. Cut the boxes should be brought into the room where the seeds are poured out of them on a newspaper sheet. When they are dry, they are poured into paper bags and stored for storage. Germination of such seeds remains high for 2 years.

    With the onset of autumn, the vine grown in open soil must be removed from the site. The fact is that it will die even if the winter is not very cold. However, sometimes tunbergia is grown in a large pot or tub. In this case, in the autumn, all the stems should be cut off, with 4 or 5 buds remaining on each of them. It is necessary to make treatment of the cut sites with a solution of manganese potassium. Put the bush in the room and clean in a place where the air temperature is no more than 15 degrees. There the plant will stay until spring. Occasionally moisten the top layer of substrate in the tank a little.

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