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What you need to know about growing roses in the open field? - Flowers

It’s hard to find a more exciting experience than growing roses. In the open ground of parks, squares, gardens, you can see an incredible number of types of these ornamental shrubs. The aroma emanating from them is unique, and the color palette of blooming buds is diverse: white, burgundy, yellow, red and even black.

Roses are self-sufficient, beautiful in themselves. Even landscape designers rarely combine them with other colors, and allium is considered the most successful neighbor. Cold-resistant varieties have been developed by specialists for the climate of Siberia, and many types of bushes feel fine without shading even under the scorching rays of the southern sun.

Little about rose bushes

Before planting these flowers, you should familiarize yourself with the recommendations of the experts on the care and carry out some preparatory work. Gardeners living in Siberia must select information adjusted to their region. Optimal conditions for the maintenance of roses: temperature in the range of 22-27 ° C, average humidity and direct sunlight. You can plant bushes in places with a predominance of diffused light, but the color of the buds will be pale, and they themselves gradually grind.

Despite the apparent strength of the stems, you should not plant on the terrain, which is characterized by piercing winds - icing and death of flowers is possible. When drafts are walking in the garden, seedlings are placed near the walls of houses or decorative arbors.

Proper care begins at the stage of soil selection in the spring. The ground for roses should be loose, nutritious, with neutral PH values. Even the climatic conditions of Siberia are suitable for planting shrubs on slightly acidic loamy soils without stagnant moisture. With the constant flooding of beds with groundwater, even such moisture-loving plants can be lost - there will be putrefactive processes.

Advice: to avoid rotting, experts advise - to dig holes for seedlings at least a couple of weeks before planting. If during this time it is filled with water, then you can transfer the future flower bed to a drier area or lay a thick layer of drainage material in the pit.

When in Siberia, too, they wanted to plant roses, agronomists began planting an ordinary rosehip on the bushes. The result is a unique frost-resistant species. They are characterized by rapid rooting in the spring, which is important for short summers and autumn. Some of the varieties of roses do not require wintering in basements.

You can plant roses in the fall and in the spring. In mid-November, the time is chosen in such a way that rooting occurs before the onset of frosts, but the buds do not begin to swell. Flower squander all the forces for the formation of leaves, but not the roots and may die in winter. In the spring, planting is done when a positive soil temperature is established (8-11 ° C). The first to plant the grafted, frost-resistant seedlings, roses with their own roots a week later. For Siberia, planting ornamental shrubs is possible from mid-May.

Several ways to successfully plant roses

The most common way of reproduction of these flowers in the spring is cutting. Using a sharp sterile knife, cuttings of 12–15 cm in size are cut from the most powerful shoots. Each of them should have several leaves, which are shortened by a third of the length, and a pair of buds. Each gardener has his own correct method of rooting cuttings:

  1. In distilled water with its periodic replacement.
  2. Using a plastic bag filled with disinfected soil.
  3. In a large potato tuber using a greenhouse.

Facilitates further care placement of cuttings directly on the ground in future flower beds. The cuttings are soaked in a weak pink solution of potassium permanganate and planted in wells at a slight angle. Seedlings covered with glass jars. When sprouts begin to make their way, banks are removed for preventive hardening of plants. A week later, greenhouses finally cleaned. Rose breeders from Siberia prefer not to take risks and plant seedlings when the roots are already fully formed.

Advice: it is better not to give young seedlings to bloom in the first summer. The resulting buds must be removed by pinching, then the whole force of the bush will be aimed at developing a strong root system.

When you want a lot of rose bushes, besides the most different, planting seeds is practiced. For southern latitudes there is no need to use greenhouses when leaving, you can sow directly on the beds. And it is difficult to manage without Siberian gardeners - the plant will not have time to form in a short summer. It is possible to plant seeds both in the fall, and in the spring in the soil enriched with mineral substances.

Many lovers of these flowers are constantly expanding their collection, buying new adult seedlings on the market. Properly engaged in the purchase in the autumn - fresh flowers remained on the bushes, which eliminates the possibility of deception, will facilitate further care. Having brought home a seedling, it is necessary to remove the old branches, and shorten the roots too long by a third. At night, young bushes are soaked in water, in the morning they prepare a mash made of rotted manure, clay and water. Saplings up to the first leaf is immersed in a container with a suspension for several hours.

The root system of roses is not intended for planting in the soil where there are air voids. Even the smallest root must be covered with earth. To plant bushes in two ways:

  • At the bottom of the pit need to pour a bucket of water, and then pour the soil, carefully tamping it. At the end of planting a bush should be poured a few buckets of water.
  • At the bottom of the hole, you need to pour two buckets of water, then cover the bush with soil and tamp it down. Two days later fill the flower bed with water.

Tip: plant roses best in the evening when the sun goes down. Roots are distributed over the hole evenly, and each root must be straightened. Plants are immersed in such a way that the graft point is 6 cm below the ground surface.

Rose bush for 10-15 cm should be covered with a mound of soil for two weeks. In Siberia, the mound can be made higher for a longer period. After the formation of the first shoots, the ground is scraped off the stem. Now you need to mulch with humus or peat.

How to care for a flowering bush?

Caring for roses always means abundant watering. For proper watering requires several buckets of water per bush 2-3 times a week. If you make water at the root every day, you can re-moisten the root system. The result will be the formation of various putrefactive processes and the plant will die. With steady heat, you need to water every day - drying the roots is unacceptable.

Bushes need constant pruning. When they cut the unwanted young shoots, the plant spends strength on bud formation. Cardinal pruning required flower before planting on flowerbeds. The shoots are cut by two-thirds of the length of the stems. Young shoots will grow stronger, will give a stronger flowering with this care.

Tip: experts warn that climbing roses can not be cut after hibernation. Large and bright flowers are formed on overwintered shoots.

Decorative bushes in the care of the use of both organic and mineral fertilizers are highly respected. Fresh manure can not be used, since there is a high probability of burning the root system. But the semi-semi-sludge (especially horse) will fit perfectly.

When to fertilize:

  1. For more lush flowering during the budding period, bushes are fed with calcium nitrate (25 g per bucket of water).
  2. Twice a month, complex mineral fertilizers and a weak organic solution are applied under the roots of roses.

Even with proper care, brown or black spots can form on the leaves, which then transfer to the whole plant. It is necessary to cut off all damaged parts of the bush and to process it with any insecticidal preparation. The most dangerous disease for the flower is powdery mildew. Usually occurs on purchased seedlings when the plant was initially infected. The main symptom is whitened leaves. Too damaged bushes need to burn, the remaining spray insecticide.

Roses can be grown in any climatic conditions. In Siberia, gardeners plant at least as many varieties as they can in any other region. The main difference is the need to cover the bushes from severe frosts with the help of wooden frames, peat and lapnik. Upon further care, you should act according to the general rules with minor amendments to the place of residence.

Contemplation of rose bushes is extremely useful occupation. Just a short walk through the flowering garden in spring calms, anxieties and worries recede. Fragrant inflorescences are used to make sachets, and amazing jams are made from the petals of the hostess. And lush bouquets should delight themselves and loved ones throughout the summer.

Climbing Roses

Pre-divide them into 2 groups: Ramblera and klimbery

Ramblers roses these are climbing roses reaching a length of 6 meters. Stems are flexible and small. In diameter of 2-3 centimeters. The flowers of most rose ramblers are collected in inflorescences, rather large. Blossom 1 time, flowering time 27-30 days. The aroma is usually absent altogether, but there are also very faint smelling ramblers. Require supports or garters.

Climbing Roses - wicker roses, stems, unlike ramblers, grow straight, and they are thicker than the latter, reaching 3 meters in length. Flowers reach a diameter of 10 centimeters, collected in small inflorescences. In central Russia, bloom twice, bloom long, very abundant and lush. Winter is easy, a solid shelter for varieties of climbers is not required.

Ground cover roses

The most frequent roses in flower beds and garden design elements. This is primarily due to the diversity of their growth forms — soil-cover roses can be both creeping and upright (upright). They bloom all season - from spring to late autumn, usually about half a meter high, but they can be higher. The range of colors, or rather their forms and types, is the most diverse: from terry, semi-terry to the most simple and sometimes even nondescript.

Miniature roses

These are varieties and types of roses, which usually do not exceed a height of 30, less often 35-40 centimeters. The flowers are similar to hybrid tea roses but smaller in diameter. These roses are primarily suitable for growing in pots and containers. Among them there are varieties that grow in flowers without much care. Most of the miniature roses are remontant.

In the picture: 1. Climbing Climbing Roses, 2. Ramblaire Climbing Roses, 3.Miniature Roses, 4. Bedbug Roses, 5. Ground Cover Roses

Park roses

Flowers in the park roses are the simplest, very often similar to the usual wild rose or non-catalog species roses. Can give fruit in the fall, a kind of berries resembling wild rose. The main disadvantage of park roses is a rare and single bloom. They got their name because they are grown mainly in parks, for the reason that they occupy a very, very large place, which are so few in our country houses.

In the picture: 6. Shrub roses, 7. Hybrid Tea Roses, 8. Cascade Roses, 9. Park Roses, 10. Stembace Roses

Shrub roses

The main and characteristic feature of shrub roses is a tall bush with a large diameter of diverging stems. In height quite easily when grown with minimal care can reach 2.5-2.7 meters. The most popular among gardeners of the variety are the representatives of this type “Modern Shrab”, “Grandiflora”. Most often used to create hedges on self-made, hand-made trellis or weave such an arch for roses, often of mixed nature (using other plants). Well also suitable for creating flower beds exclusively from roses. Formed rose garden roses are very beautiful.

The group of shrub roses includes many modern varieties of remontant roses, as well as old, so-called “nostalgic” varieties, once flowering, with double flowers.

Hybrid Tea Roses

This type of roses captivates the hearts of gardeners above all with its large double flowers. Stems grow to a height of up to a meter, upright (upright). One of the best types of roses for cutting. All Hybrid Tea Roses are repairable, and almost all are fragrant. In the landscape design and the formation of the flower garden they are used in combination with herbaceous perennials or decorative cereals.

Hybrid tea roses have large elegant flowers and straight-growing shoots reaching a height of 1 m, so they look good in a flower garden and are also great for cutting.

The best place for planting roses

Whichever variety you choose for planting, remember that regardless of the variety, all roses love a soft, loose, fertile land, with good water permeability. The best level of soil acidity is the so-called pH - 6.5.

Caution: When replacing landings Do not plant roses in the same place where old roses have been growing for more than 8-10 years!

Old roses have already “selected” from the soil all the micro-elements, minerals, etc. they need, and it is not always possible to compensate for this even through a proper and generous fertilizer. But they filled the earth with spores of diseases and pests.

Despite the well-known light-loving roses can not be under the direct rays of the sun, especially if you live in a warm region in the South, etc. In this position, they bloom quickly, and the flowers look faded, not spectacular - that is, the very meaning of planting roses, beauty, is lost.

Based on the above, for planting roses, choose a place that is slightly shaded, especially at noon, for example, near a low tree, which you subject to annual pruning, etc.

So, in my area to the left of a cypress tree that grows alongside, the rosebud always, despite the constant care, is stunted and faded, on the right, it (cypress), like a clock, covers the second bush at noon, which, despite the same planting and variety, is always stronger and more beautiful, so it is tested in practice.

Preparing for planting rose seedlings

Immediately before planting roses, seedlings should first be prepared. So the roots, which are too long, should be cut a little with a sharp (!) Shears, and all dry ones should be removed completely (as a rule, dry roots in roses can be recognized even by touch).

In this case, in any case, do not touch the thread-like roots.

Pruning is necessary to subject the sapling stalks - leave two to four buds in the spring, and in the fall the seedlings are shortened to 33-35 centimeters when planting.

Tip: A few hours before planting (approximately 2), lower the seedlings into a bucket of water and leave them there for a specified time, or even better, do it in the evening, and plant in the morning, that is, at night.

Planting roses - step by step

If you have a predominantly clayy soil in a country house or in a flower garden, add river or other sand to the pit under the seedling. If, in turn, you have sandy soil, then add in turn to the rose hole - compost.

  1. The pit for planting roses should be 10 centimeters more than (wider and deeper) than the earthy clod and the roots that are in it. Bottom of the landing fossa loosen.
  2. The depth at which the sapling of the rose is planted is determined by the site of inoculation, which must be buried 4-5 centimeters into the soil. Mix the soil selected from the hole for planting with the compost (approximately 1 to 3), and add a handful of real wood ash (not chemistry, not ash from cardboard boxes and other things - only wood!).
  3. Hold a sapling of roses at exactly the right depth and gradually fill the hole with earth.
  4. Be sure to firm up the soil around the planting.
  5. By watering the seedling: make an earthen border around the planting to prevent water from spreading. Be sure to spud the sapling centimeters 15, not less - it should be done in the spring and autumn. In the spring, earthing up is helpful for drying, and in the fall helps against frost. At the onset of the autumn period, excess land can be removed.

Photo 3: Proper planting of roses for beginners

Pruning roses

The purpose of any pruning roses is substitution. That is, it is produced in order to replace the old stems and shoots of young, which bloom luxuriantly and abundantly. Pruning of old dried shoots is done before the start of healthy, green wood.

They also prune weakened stems by shortening them significantly, powerful shoots either do not touch it at all or cut it slightly.

Root growth, the scourge of grafted roses, is removed when pruning completely.

The general rule of pruning is this: the stronger it is, the more power the rose will need for the formation of new stems.

Pruning shtambovy (including cascading) roses is determined by their variety and type of graft - as a ground cover, they are generally shortened by half a growth every 2 years.

Spring pruning roses

Spring pruning is started mainly at the end of March, in colder regions - early April.

Но разумеется эти сроки могут сдвинуться, в зависимости от климата, погоды в любую сторону, поэтому кроме точных сроков воспользуйтесь такой приметой: проводить обрезку роз надо начинать тогда когда набухают почки на верхушках самых мощных побегов ,как правило в это же время в цветнике зацветает растение форзиция.

Фото 4: Обрезка роз

Как правильно срезать стебли

Поверьте это важно.

Побеги роз срезают над почкой, из которой в последующем появится побег. Такая почка должна быть направлена наружу, во внешнюю сторону – делается это во избежание загущения куста и придания ему красивой формы.

Чтобы не повредить секатором почку, подрезайте побег на 5-7 миллиметров выш. Make the cut oblique and it should be directed down from the kidney, this is done so that the moisture from the mist and rainwater will flow down at the cut point, not stagnate on it, which can cause its penetration into the core and the escape will rot.

The main pests of roses

Lives on the tips of the stems, the underside of the leaf, the kidneys. It feeds on juice.

How to fight: Cutting populated by aphids shoots, spraying wormwood solution (the solution recipe is given above), helps in the fight against rosany aphids home-made nettles mash. If it is not possible to prepare folk solutions then process any chemical. remedy for leaf-eating or juice-sucking pests.

2. "Rose cicadas"

Small insects. The favorite place of residence is the lower part of the rose sheet. A characteristic sign is that white small specks appear on the outer part of the leaves. The period of appearance is June, or the first half of July, as well as August-September.

Control measures: treatment of roses with simple liquid soap.

3. The pest of the rose is the spider mite.

Also colonizes the underside of the leaves. The leaves are covered with yellow spots, then rapidly become gray, white. If there is an intensive reproduction of spider mites, then thin spider webs are visible on the back of the leaf with the naked eye.

How to fight: since the tick loves sunny and dry places, then avoid them when planting roses, if this is not possible due to any circumstances, then remove the leaves affected by the tick, sometimes shoots if the process of settling goes too far and then spray with decoction of horsetail ( recipe solution above) or tobacco. Also effective against spider mite infusions of yarrow, and garlic.

4. "Listovertka rozannaya."

Its peculiarity as a pest of roses is that it lays its eggs on the edge of the leaves of the roses because of what they begin to curl up into a tube and in the beginning and middle of June the larva matures in them.

Control measures: Remove pest affected leaves, spraying with any insecticide.

5. “Sawfly or Rotator Rosian”

The pest lays eggs directly on the pink shoots, the larvae emerging from the eggs pierce the holes in the shoots and penetrate into their middle, which causes growth to slow down and then the death of the stem. Signs of its presence are the holes in the shoots, which appear as early as May.

Ways and measures to combat sawfly: only the removal of affected shoots. As prevention, a regular spraying of a rose with a solution of bitter wormwood can play a good role (recipe above).

Pests of roses - photo

Rose diseases and control measures

The main sign of black spot is black or purple spots with a characteristic border on the outside of a rose leaf. After the spots appear, the leaves turn yellow very quickly, dry and fall off. The provoking effect of the appearance of black spot on roses may be increased humidity.

Measures to combat black spot: if prolonged rainy weather has been established, then since June, every two weeks, sometimes more often, spray the roses with a solution of nettle, horsetail, and one-percent Bordeaux liquid.

2. Roses and powdery mildew.

Another scourge of garden roses. The provoking factor is the same as that of the black spot - wet and warm weather, established for a long time. A sign of the disease is clear from the name - white, easily washable plaque on the leaves.

How to fight: spraying with one percent Bordeaux mixture, manure infusion, regularly (every 10 days). To prevent powdery mildew on roses, plant them in a ventilated area, not limited to large plants or walls. Frequent thinning of the bush can also be effective.

3. Rose rust of roses:

It looks like a black spot, but the spots are brown, brown or yellow, and black pustules appear on the inside of the leaves, which contain spores.

Control measures: spraying with copper-soap solution, Bordeaux liquid (1% liquid). It is necessary to start spraying from the end of April: first, according to the scheme, three times in two days, subsequently every 10-14 days, until the fungus disappears.

4. Mealy dew (false).

A characteristic sign is red-brown spots on the outer side of the leaves, on the back of the leaf is gray or white bloom, indelible.

How to fight: process bushes with horsetail solution (the recipe for the preparation of the solution is given above), also effective treatment of infusion of nettle, ordinary sow, ash solution or extract of mullein. As an additional tool, increase potash supplements under the root and avoid water droplets on the leaves when watering.

5. Gray Rose Rot:

The provoking factor is prolonged rainy weather. Sign of gray mold: gray mold at the ends of the stems, and buds. After the disease, they dry and fall.

Measures to combat gray mold: increase fertilizing fertilizer with manganese in its composition. Prevention: treatment of roses with an ordinary Bordeaux mixture (1%)

Photo of Rose Disease

Description of the varieties of roses in the photo

Name (ROSE VARIETY)

Group

Flowers

Aroma

Bush

1.Aprikola

apricot, semi-double, 6 cm

straight, densely leafy, 70 cm high

2.Aspirin-Rose

from white to pink, terry, 6 cm

with arched, drooping stems, 70 cm high

3.Bengali

copper-yellow, terry, 6 cm

straight, densely leafy, 100 cm high

4.Black Forest Rose

red, semi-double, 6 cm

sprawling, densely leafy, 70 cm high

5. Bluhwunder 08

bright pink, simple, 6 cm

sprawling, densely leafy, 80 cm high

6. Comedy

yellow with red, terry, 8 cm

straight, densely leafy, 150 cm high

7. Crescendo

pink, terry, 10 cm

straight, densely leafy, 85 cm tall

8. Debut

light yellow, terry, 4 cm

straight, densely leafy, 65 cm tall

9.Elbflorenz

bright pink, double-lined, 9 cm

straight, densely leafy, 70 cm high

10. Gebruder Grimm

orange with pink, double-lined, 7 cm

straight, densely leafy, 70 cm high

11.Golden Gate

large-flowered climbers (Climber)

yellow, semi-double, 9 cm

with stems 300 cm long

12.Goldspatz

light yellow, semi-double, 9 cm

with drooping stems, height 150 cm

13.Grande Amore

bright red, terry, 10 cm

straight, densely leafy,

14. Heidetraum

bright pink, terry, 4 cm

low, spreading, height 75 cm

15.Hella

large-flowered climbers (Climber)

white, semi-double, 9 cm

with shoots 250 cm long

16.Flashlight

pink, double, 10 cm

straight, densely leafy, 120 cm high

17. Hermann-Hesse-Rose

cream, double-lined, 10 cm

straight, densely leafy, 80 cm high

18. Eliza

silver-pink, terry, 9 cm

straight, densely leafy, 100 cm high

19. Intarsia

yellow-pink, semi-double, 6 cm

straight, densely leafy, 80 cm high

20. Isarperle

creamy white, terry, 6 cm

straight, densely leafy, 75 cm tall

21. Jasmina

large-flowered climbers (Climber)

purple-pink, double-lined, 6 cm

with stems 300 cm long

22. Kir Royal

large-flowered climbers (Climber)

pink, terry, 6 cm

with powerful upright stems 250-300 cm long

23. Kosmos

cream, double-lined, 8 cm

straight, densely leafy, 80 cm high

24. La Perla

cream, double-lined, 9 cm

straight, densely leafy, 80 cm high

25. Innocencia

pure white, semi-double, 5 cm

compact, branched, 50 cm tall

26. Schone Koblenzerin

red with cream, double-lined, 4 cm

straight, densely leafy, 60 cm tall

27. Sedana

creamy orange or apricot, semi-double, 5 cm

low, densely leafy, height 60-70 cm

28. La Rose de Molinard

bright pink, double-lined, 8 cm

straight, densely leafy, 130 cm high

29. Laguna

large-flowered climbers (Climber)

bright pink, double-lined, 10 cm

250 cm long stems

30. Larissa

pink, terry, 5 cm

thick, branched, 80 cm tall

31. Medley Pink

pink, semi-double, 4 cm

straight, densely leafy, 40 cm high

32. Mirato

bright pink, terry, 6-7 cm

sprawling, branched, 50-70 cm high

33. Pastella

cream with pink, double-lined, 6-8 cm

straight, densely leafy, height 60-80 cm

34. Pink Paradise

bright pink with yellow, terry, 9 cm

compact, densely leafy, 90 cm tall

35. Pink Swany

pink, double-lined, 6-7 cm

sprawling with falling shoots 50-60 cm high

36. Planten un Blomen

red-white, loose, terry, 5 cm

straight, densely leafy, 70 cm high

37. Pomponella

pink, double-lined, 4 cm

straight, densely leafy, 80 cm high

38. Red Leonardo da Vinci

dark red, double-lined, 7 cm

straight, densely leafy, 40-60 cm high

39. Resonanz

red, semi-double, 6 cm

straight, densely leafy, 100 cm high

40. Rouge Meilove

dark red, double-lined, 5 cm

sprawling, branched, 40-60 cm high

41. Schloss Ippenburg

salmon pink, terry, 8-10 cm

straight, densely leafy, 100 cm high

42. Schneeflocke

white, semi-double, 6 cm

strictly straight, densely leafy, 40-50 cm tall

43. Shining Light

yellow, terry, 10 cm

straight, densely leafy, 130 cm high

44. Sinea

maroon, loose, terry, 6 cm

straight, densely leafy, 70-90 cm high

45. Solero

light yellow, double-lined, 6 cm

sprawling, branchy, 70 cm high

46. ​​Sorrento

red, loose, terry, 5 cm

low, densely leafy, 70-80 cm high

47. Souvenir de Baden-Baden

creamy pink, double-lined, 10 cm

straight, densely leafy, 100 cm high

48. Stadt Rom

salmon pink, simple, 6-7 cm

compact, well branched, 50-60 cm high

49. Westzeit

orange, semi-double, 6 cm

straight, densely leafy, height 60-70 cm

50. Yellow Meilove

light yellow, densely terry, 5 cm

straight, densely leafy, 40-60 cm high

Breeders and breeders of these roses: Kordes ’Sonne, Noack, Meilland, Delbard

Deciphering characters in the description of the varieties of roses in the photo

1. Climbing roses: for planting at the support or walls that need to be decorated.
2. Bed flowers: for planting in low and mixed flower beds.
3. Shrub roses: for hedges and planting with other shrubs.
4. Potted plants: can be grown in pot culture.

To be continued. Part will be added to this article, the rest in Part 2 where we will tell more about the care of roses of each species and the intricacies of their cultivation.

Reviews and comments: 17

I want to share advice with those who grow roses in the garden. Scrape a few nails or iron cans under the bush (closer to the roots). Rusting, iron passes into the soured form, which is easily absorbed by plants. I do this trick even with indoor roses (I drop one carnation per pot). Satisfied with the result: garden and home roses are healthy, they bloom well and for a long time.

Indeed, iron plays an important role in oxidative processes in plants, participates in the formation of chlorophyll. Iron is usually found in soil in large quantities, but soluble compounds that plants can assimilate are often not enough.

But! It takes years for the iron from the nail or the can to become available for roses. In this case, the jar first needs to be well burned in the fire. So do not wait for a quick effect from the dug in pieces of iron. And it is better to use ready-made complex fertilizers for dressing roses.
Elena GORBUNOVA, biologist, Moscow

Last year, my roses were simply strewn with rust. How to deal with this disease, and what are the ways to prevent?

Rust on roses is a fairly common disease. If you do not take any measures of struggle, it can destroy all the roses.
Most often, the rust is transferred from infected seedlings or from a sick and growing nearby rose hips. The climbing species are usually the first to be affected, but then the disease can spread to all other roses. Its development is facilitated by increased air humidity and heavy soils.
The first signs appear at the beginning of summer - bright orange spots appear on the leaves, which become black in autumn. The shoots are bent, the leaves fall off and the fungus spores remain to hibernate on them, which again infect the roses next year. If you do not take measures, the plants may die.
At the first signs of the disease, it is necessary to spray the copper-containing preparations (Bordeaux liquid, "Home", "Oxy"). All affected parts of the plants must be removed and burned. Shoots - cut below the affected areas. If there are bushes that have been hit very hard, then they need to be dug up and burned. Before sheltering for the winter, foliage should be carefully collected and removed, and roses should be sprayed with Bordeaux mixture.
But in order for the roses to be healthy, it is necessary to take preventive measures against diseases. To do this, in the early spring, spray the bushes with copper-containing preparations; in May, another treatment can be carried out with the “Falcon” preparation. If the roses are fine, then the next processing is in August.
It is very important to properly conduct agrotechnical measures for the care of roses. Strong and healthy bushes are less likely to be affected by bopezni.

Top dressing for roses
In mid-May, for good growth, rose bushes feed them with ammonium nitrate or urea solution (1 tbsp. Per Yul of water). Then I water the plants with a mullein infusion (1:10) - 4 liters under a bush. To protect the roses from pests, spray the leaves with any insecticide on the unfolding leaves.

Rosa from potatoes
Someone gave me a bouquet of roses, and shoots appeared on one of the cuttings. While there is no time to plant a stalk in the ground, but I know that there is a way to grow roses in a potato tuber. Tell me how to do this?

Growing roses using potato tuber is no different from the usual planting. A cutting of 20–25 cm in length is also cut, cut obliquely, and the potato is pierced approximately to the middle of the tuber. Then planted in a pre-prepared soil. Potatoes are used as an additional means to nourish the plant and protect the cutting from drying out: it is rich in starch, vitamins and juice. In addition, to save the rose before planting, place it in a pot of wet sand and cover with polyethylene. Moisten periodically without letting the sand dry out.

And what is better to grow a rose? From cuttings or seeds. found the soot. Without experience will it be easy to grow?

IF ON A FLAME ROSES ...
I was able to save my beloved rose with a folk remedy. Two years ago, in the fall, I bought a seedling on the market. The winter I had a good winter winters rose, and problems began in the spring. Sufficiently hot weather contributed to the development of a dangerous pest. Aphid colonies were placed on the leaves, shoots, causing an ugly twisting. I tried many drugs purchased in the store, but nothing helped. And I decided to cope with aphids
native methods, this was my last hope. I took 500 grams of garlic, ground them in a glass container, filled it with water, kept it in a dark room for five days, strained. For spraying, I took 10 liters of water, 60 ml of infusion and 50 g of liquid soap. It is better to carry out the dew procedure. This year, the rose grew without pests and presented with beautiful blooms.

Together with the newly purchased house I got a large front garden with tea roses. And despite the fact that I dreamed of a real rose garden with luxurious varietal roses, my hand did not raise to touch this simple charm.
In addition, tea roses do not require special care - water, if it is too hot, and feed them along with everyone. I noticed that this rose loves fertilizers with a high content of iron - flowers bloom large and bright.
In early spring, while the buds did not wake up, they cut off all the old, weak and unnecessary branches. Tried hard
molded so that the bulk
Sa young branches remained in the upper part of the bushes. It turned out something similar to the standard form - a luxurious pink-colored hat on the naked trunks.
The rose starts blooming in June - the beauty is incredible and the fragrance spreads throughout the street. The first days I enjoy this splendor, and then I start preparing the petals for jam. Flowers cut early in the morning. Surprisingly, for dinner all the bushes are again covered with flowers.
After the petals have gathered enough, I cut off the cut, but I always cut off the flowering flowers so that fruits do not form. The fact is that if this is not
to do, then the tea rose quickly turns into an ordinary rosehip.
By the way, it multiplies more easily than the lung: around the adult shrub, a lot of root processes are formed. You just undermine them and take them - the main thing is to have several roots on them.
Three years ago, gave the neighbors a few seedlings. To date, they have become a powerful dense hedge with a height of human growth.
And finally, I want to share a recipe for rose jam, I got it from my grandfather, in whose house I now live. By the way, this jam is not only a delicacy, but also a medicine. It perfectly copes with colds, sore throats and stomatitis.
JAMS OF TEA ROSES PETALS
WOULD NEED
500 g rose petals, 1200 g sugar, 1 tsp. citric acid, 1 glass of water.
COOKING METHOD,
Fold the petals in a sieve and rinse with running water. In an enamel or glass dish pour half a serving of sugar and dissolved in 50 ml of water of citric acid, leave for 6 hours.
Mix the infusion with the remaining sugar and water, boil for 5-7 minutes, then add the petals and boil on low heat for 10-15 minutes.
Put the jam in sterilized jars and roll up the lids.

Roses in tubers
Cuttings of roses rooted reluctantly, especially if a novice takes it. But there is a way available even to a child. From the seediest twigs in the ordinary potato can grow a luxurious rose bush.
Growing roses in potato tubers taught me a girlfriend. Now apply this technique with other plants.
Черенки заготавливаю обычным способом: срезаю веточку с 4-5 почками. В нижней части обрезаю ее
I use a sharp knife in the form of a wedge (cut length 2 cm) and immediately insert potatoes into the tuber (I first cut out all my eyes).
Potatoes prepared this way are planted in the ground and covered with a layer of earth (1.5-2 cm). The remaining cuttings on the surface are covered with glass jars.
Roses root in potatoes well and quickly, and the signal to complete the process is the appearance of leaves.
In the summer, I often water the saplings - the earth should be fully moistened to the full depth of the roots. I tested this method on other plants. It turned out well to grow hydrangea, lilac, jasmine.

Since childhood, I remember the wonderful aroma of roses through the streets of a small town in the Donbas. Perhaps, at that time, the dream of owning a rose garden was born.
However, fate threw me far to the north, in a big city. Roses here does not smell. l For many years, the dream remained just a dream until a lucky chance fell out.
Somehow they gave me white roses. As expected, put them in a vase. I changed the water every day, enjoyed the luxurious bloom for almost a month.
Once I noticed that some stems were sprouting. Alive! Throw the hand did not rise - drove the cuttings to my mother to the country.
We landed roses according to the rules. Chose the most sunny, not too wet place. They planted our beauties in a circle every 50 cm. It was in spring, in April, and at the end of June the first buds appeared. Successful first experience inspired me to new experiments. In the autumn, collecting a wild rose in the forest, I suddenly thought: what if it was next to ma | my dacha | put a house?
She took out seeds from ripe fruits and sowed them in the front garden. In spring, sturdy shoots appeared on this place. The very next year, he flaunted a lot of fragrant flowers. So, every summer my roses and wild rose give me the scent of childhood. Dreams Come True.

Unfortunately, with the varietal forzia, which are so eagerly offered to us by trade, the same problem lies in central Russia. They bloom only with a very favorable combination of microclimatic conditions and, as a rule, in large cities, being planted near the walls of large buildings. The fact is that forsythia vegetative buds and wood have markedly greater frost resistance than flower buds. As a result, the bush at the very least lives and by the fall well acquires new shoots (forsythia can boast of high restorative ability). But the flower buds in the winter either die completely or remain only under the snow, and then we see a picture of lush flowering, but to a height of a couple of tens of centimeters.
A good way out of this situation is the dwarf varieties Arnold Dwarf, Bronxensis. Their moderate growth allows you to make shelters for the winter of non-woven material, under the protection of which the flower buds are preserved.
Forsythia ovata (Forsythia ovata) and its varieties have a markedly better winter hardiness, so there are much more chances to admire its flowering in the dacha garden. The plant overwinters in the middle lane without shelter, even in severe winters only the ends of the annual shoots freeze slightly.
And only sometimes, with a rather rare combination of weather factors (long fall plus frequent thaws at the end of winter), the bush can lose the entire above-ground part. But even then it grows pretty quickly. However, in our conditions and this species can not boast of longevity. The bush is useful to periodically renew from cuttings or cuttings that Forsythia is capable of producing independently, as roots are easily formed at the point of contact of any branch with the ground. Unfortunately, this species is not blinding by the brightness of its yellowness, as a varietal forsythia is intermediate, its flowers are of a much more restrained, modest tone.
You can try to “tame” forsythia, normally blooming with friends or in the city. The branches easily give roots even in water, you only need to chop them before the leaves have yet blossomed. Or to root in the usual way in the ground, but already green cuttings.

Tell me - the roses have finished - they are blooming, but why the forsythia is not blooming, which is also mentioned here as a variant of the composition in the flower garden:

Roses in pots: what you need to know

For growing in containers primarily suitable roses from the Floribunda group, miniature and ground cover. Since these spiny beauties have long roots, it is advisable to plant them in pots at least 40 cm deep for normal development, otherwise they will be too crowded. Plant roses or in a specially designed substrate for these plants, or in a universal land. But perhaps the most important thing to do is to take care of good drainage, because roses do not tolerate stagnant moisture and overmoistening of the soil.
So, before planting, place a clay clay block on the bottom of the pot so that it covers the entire bottom of the container.
1. Place nonwoven fabric on top (spunbond or geotextile). This is to ensure that the substrate does not clog the holes for water flow at the bottom of the pot. Next, pour some earth.
2 Remove the rose from the pot in which it was sold and transplant it into a prepared container. Pour the ground and be sure to pour plenty of plant.
In the process of growing do not forget about fertilizer.

Roses in minks grow only under the cover of powerful chemistry, otherwise they are destroyed by spider mites

Where can I buy selected seedlings? Find out their price?

Adding an article to a new collection

Do you distinguish climers from ramblers? Do you know what fertilizers and in what doses to make under climbing roses? Can you carry out a competent pruning and form a bush on a support? Learn all about growing climbing roses from our article.

It is believed that the rose is a capricious plant. In fact, it is enough to follow the basic rules of caring for a rose bush, so that it feels good and captivates you with its wonderful flowering.

Landing dates

Climbing rose can be planted in the fall and spring. Nevertheless, experts recommend to stop on the first variant: roses planted in autumn are better hardened, start growing faster, while spring seedling will lag behind in development for a couple of weeks.

Autumn planting is carried out in mid-autumn (from mid-September to mid-October), when the heat has already subsided, and frosts have not yet come. In this case, by the first frost the young roots already have time to form.

However, in the northern regions with severe winters, this method is somewhat risky - young plants may die. If you are not sure that your roses spend a good winter, it is best to be safe and plant them in the spring, in late April - early May.

Selection of landing site

Climbing roses like well-lit areas, so choose a sunny seedling, in extreme cases - partial shade corners of the garden.

Climbing roses are best planted on the southeast side.

This culture does not tolerate excess moisture, so you should not plant a rose in heavy clay soil with a high level of groundwater. The soil should be fertile, loose. Ideally, a landing site for a climbing rose should be allocated a section with a slight slope to the south.

Seedlings preparation

It is preferable to choose seedlings of climbing roses for planting, although they develop slightly slower than grafted roses.

Healthy Climbing Rose Seedlings

A quality seedling should have at least 2-3 strong woody shoots. Pay attention to the bark on the shoots was a healthy green color, without damage. The root system should be well developed, with a large number of thin white roots.

Before planting, the seedlings are put in water for several hours so that they are saturated with moisture. In spring, seedlings with an open root system (that is, with bare roots) are also best placed for a day in a container with a root-stimulator (Kornevin, Kornerost, Hetero-auxin, etc.).

Immediately before digging a seedling into the ground, it must be trimmed slightly, removing all damaged roots and slightly (5-10 cm) cutting old, too long rhizomes.

Before planting, saplings with both closed and open root systems are soaked in water

If you are a beginner florist and are not confident in your abilities, the easiest way is to choose seedlings with a closed root system (in containers). They do not need to be cut before landing. It will be enough to soak an earthy ball in water.

Before planting, make sure you bought a really sapling container. Earthen clod should not crumble, it should penetrate the thin white roots.

Landing pit preparation

It should be borne in mind that climbing rose roots can penetrate into the soil to a depth of 2 m. If the groundwater in your area is high enough (higher than 2 m from the ground), before planting, you must dig a hole to a depth of 1 m and concrete it or put a stone on the bottom, and pour a fertile layer of soil on top. This does not “skip” the roots of the rose below, and they will develop horizontally.

Before planting a climbing rose, the ground is cultivated at least 0.7-1 m

The optimum width of the planting pit is 40-50 cm. Usually, it is enough for one seedling to dig a hole of two 10-liter buckets.

The distance between rambler saplings should be 1.5-2 m, between climer seedlings - 1-1.5 m.

When planting, keep in mind that for the winter the roses will have to be loosed from the support and covered. Take care that there is a free space next to the bush.

Soil for climbing roses

For lush flowering, these beauties need fertile, loose, ideally loamy soil. If the soil in your area is far from this ideal, it will definitely be improved before planting.

AT clay soil add sand, in sandy - some clay. This will not affect the fertility of the soil, but will help to regulate its air and moisture permeability. To enrich poor soil, it adds chernozem, biohumus. With this soil mixture, the pit is filled approximately by 2/3 (so that the roots of the seedling fit freely in it).

Fertilizers for planting climbing roses are made in the top layer of soil

Fertilizers are applied to the top layer of soil in which you will directly bury the seedling: 5 kg of rotted manure or compost, 1 table wood ash. You can also feed the rose with complex viburnum-phosphate fertilizers (15 g per plant). But with nitrogen supplements you need to be careful: they are made only during the spring planting (20 g under one plant).

It is also a good idea to enrich the soil with useful microorganisms that will process "inedible" substances for roses into useful ones. For example, such bacteria contains the drug Baikal EM-1.

Landing technology

After the planting pit is prepared, and the seedlings are saturated with water and underwent sanitary pruning, you can proceed to the process itself.

The depth of seedling depends on whether it was vaccinated or not.

Pour a layer of fertile soil at the bottom of the pit. Place the rose in the center of the pit and fill it with soil mixture with fertilizer. Own-rooted seedlings are planted 5 cm deeper than they were grown before, planted graft so that the grafting site is 10 cm below the soil level.

Gently tighten the soil around the seedling and water well. It is also desirable to spud the rose with a mixture of soil and sand to a height of about 20 cm.

Watering mode for climbing rose

In dry weather, young plants are watered every other day, adults - every 10-12 days. On one bush enough one bucket (10 l) of water. In especially dry weather, you can pour out two buckets.

After 5 days after watering (or after rain), the ground around the bush must be loosened to prevent moisture from evaporating quickly.

Climbing roses react equally badly to both deficiency and excess moisture.

If the summer is hot, you can kill the tree trunks to prevent dehydration of the plant.

With the end of flowering, frequent watering and loosening of rose bushes cease. It is necessary to prepare the plant for the winter.

Dressing climbing roses

Young plant in First year does not need additional feedings. If desired, you can once a season, pour them with infusion of mullein (1:10) or chicken droppings (1:20). 3-5 liters of fertilizer are poured under one bush.

In second and subsequent years climbing roses are fed according to the following scheme.

Without a complex mineral dressing it is difficult to achieve a luxurious flowering of a climbing rose.

Here are some more facts about dressing climbing roses that you should know:

  • An excess of nitrogen can lead to the fact that the rose will increase the lush green mass, but never bloom.
  • Climbing roses respond very well to foliar feeding (on leaves). They are held in the summer and only in dry, warm weather in the morning. In order not to burn the leaves, the recommended dose of fertilizer is reduced by 2 times.
  • Climbing rose bushes can be threshed with rotted manure. This is best done in the fall.

Rambler or Klimber?

Not all beginning flower growers are aware that climbing roses are divided into two large groups - ramblers ("creeping") and climber ("climbing"). As a result, beginners face unexpected problems. For example, despite feeding and reliable winter shelter, a rambler does not bloom due to excessive spring pruning. Or a naughty climber vine doesn’t want to curl on a support.

Ramblers - Classic Climbing Roses

Ramblers can be considered classic climbing roses. Such shrubs were grown in a traditional English garden 100 or 200 years ago. Klaimbers - These are hybrids of ramblers with other types of roses (for example, tea ones).

So that all your efforts to care for the rosebush are not wasted, it is important to correctly identify the group of climbing roses. To make it easier for you to do this, we have compiled a brief visual table of the main differences of ramblers and climers.

Climbers have larger flowers than ramblers

Rosovodam managed to bring several varieties of re-flowering ramblers: Super dorothy (Super Dorothy), Snow goose (Snow Goose), Super Excelsa (Super Excelsa), Malvern Hills (Malvern Hills), Super Fairy (Super Fairy), etc.

Trimming Ramblers

As we said above, Rambler groups of the Rambler group react badly to over-pruning.

Young one-year sapling It is desirable to cut in the spring, leaving 2-4 strong escape, and the rest cut on the ring.

Autumn of the first year You can never trim a Rambler. In extreme cases, shortening or removing unnecessary, improperly growing or damaged side branches is allowed.

In the spring of the second year of life in plants, the tops of the lashes are slightly cut to stimulate branching. Side shoots are shortened to 2-3 buds.
In the summer of the second and subsequent years after the end of flowering, side shoots are removed from the flowering inflorescences.

In the fall of the second and subsequent years ramblers have left several shoots of the current season, several shoots of last year (on which there was a flowering) and at the request of not more than one old three-year-old shoot. The remaining branches are cut on the ring. You should not pity them, as ramblers practically do not bloom on shoots older than 2 years.

In the spring of the second and subsequent years in adult plants, two-year shoots are shortened to 1-3 strong buds. In last year's shoots (which will bloom this year) slightly topped the tops. Old and damaged shoots that are not removed in the fall, cut out on the ring.

Scheme trimmer Rambler

In general, ramblers are better off not trimming at all than trimming too much.

Climbing Climbers

Despite the fact that climber blooms on last year's and young shoots, it is still advisable to regularly remove old branches. The flowering on them worsens, they are more susceptible to all sorts of diseases, and they just make the bush untidy and unkempt.

Autumn clips are not necessary to trim, especially if your region has severe winters. If you are confident that the plant will overwinter without problems, you can remove too old, damaged shoots.

Spring is the main pruning climers. Three-year shoots (on which the rose most likely either does not bloom at all, or blooms poorly) are cut on the ring. Damaged, frozen, dry shoots are removed. Two-year shoots slightly pruned dried tops. Small side shoots pruned to 1-2 buds.

Clipper trimming scheme

To distinguish a two-year-old from a three-year-old escape from climbing roses is quite difficult. Therefore, if you have doubts, it is advisable to mark them with colorful ribbons or tags.

Winter Shelter Climbing Roses

Many gardeners spud and mulch their climbing roses with peat, sawdust, or plain ground for the winter. But sometimes such excessive precaution can only harm the plant.

If frequent thaws occur in your winter climate, and sleet and rain are not uncommon, a rose may begin to rot and roar. Spud roses in such conditions can only be if they are planted on the slope, and the water at the bush for a long time does not stagnate.

If you mulch a rose with sawdust, in no case cover it with boards for the winter. Otherwise, under this cozy shelter can settle the mouse, who with pleasure diversify their meager winter diet with the shoots of your rose.

For the winter shelter of roses is best suited thick spunbond (non-woven, agrotex). The width of the covering material should be at least 0.5 m. The wider the spanbond, the better. This will create the necessary air gap and will not allow the plant to freeze or to fade during the thaw. In the middle lane climbing roses will need 2-3 layers of cover.

Желательно устанавливать укрытия на дуги, чтобы в случае сильного снегопада ветви не сломались.

Укрытие устанавливают на опорах, чтобы толстый слой снега не сломал розу

Плети рамблеров аккуратно снимают с опоры, укладывают кольцом и накрывают. Благо, гибкие ветви позволяют это сделать.

К сожалению, с клаймберами такой "трюк" не пройдет. The shoots will have to begin to bend down to the ground at the end of September (but not later than the beginning of October), in order to have time to “accustom” them to this position before the first frost. The shoots are gently tilted and secured to the surface of the soil with the help of wire “pins”.

Keep in mind that the branches should not touch the ground directly, otherwise they may rot during the melting of the snow. It is advisable to lay them on a layer of mulch.

In the spring, as soon as the frosts subside, the climbing roses begin to be aired, opening the shelter, and also disarmed.

Choice of support for roses

When establishing a support for a climbing rose, it is important to consider the expected width and height of the bush. For compact and not very high varieties, a support up to 1.5 m high will be enough. Naturally, if you expect your rose to grow to 2, or even 3 m, you need to build a support of an appropriate height.

Climbing roses are perfect for pergola decoration.

Another important nuance is the reliability and strength of the base structure. If you do not plan to remove the scourge for the winter and allow the bush to grow abundantly, replacing the support without damaging the plant will be quite problematic. Therefore, it makes sense to immediately ensure that the support was
Strong, high quality and served more than one season.

As a support you can use:

Where to install the support?

Trellis should be about 40-50 cm from the bush. If you plan to make a whip on the fence, the first cross bar of which is high enough above the ground, you need to help the rose "get" to it. To do this, stick near the fence a few stakes, the height of which exceeds the gap between ground level and the first crossbar of the fence.

Please note that the distance between the support and the rose seedling should be at least 30-40 cm. Otherwise, when the bush grows, dense foliage will prevent air circulation.

How to tie the whip to the trellis?

As soon as the vines have grown to support, begin to form a bush. Only the largest, strongest lashes, which will become the basis of the bush, are sent along the support.

Scourge fixed at an angle of 45 degrees or less, to achieve the most violent flowering

1. Begin to "train" the scourge before they have reached the height of the support. Carefully tie the tops of the whips with soft tape of 30-40 cm in length. Tie the free ends of the tape to the support so that the whips spread out like a fan.

2. When the scourge will outgrow the place of binding to the support, you can proceed directly to the formation. Tie the vine as horizontally as possible - the rose will bloom more lushly.

Once you have tied the shoots to the trellis, the first strapping can be removed.

For garters, use soft bands that can be loosened as the shrub grows. Do not bend the shoots too hard to avoid damaging them.

3. As you grow, move the harness higher and higher, giving the bush the desired shape. This should be done after every 0.5-1 m increment.

4. Do not forget to trim the shrub every season. The main thing - do not cut the main shoots more than 1/3.

Perhaps, when forming a “naughty” climber, you will have to leave part of the old strapping in order to keep the bush on the support.

How to put a climbing rose on the column?

If there is not enough space in your garden for the wild thickets of climbing roses, but you still want to have a “pink” corner, you can try to twist a column of a rose.

Begin the formation of an adult bush climbing roses around the column after the spring pruning.

Around the post allow only the main shoots of the bush

1. Choose a solid support for the rose. It can be both a long wooden bar, and a beautiful decorative column. The main condition is strength. After all, you do not want low-quality support broke under the weight of flowering vines?

2. Securely install the column in 40 cm from the bush. It is necessary to dig deep into the ground and, perhaps, even to concrete the foundation. In this case, you do not have to worry that the support will fall under the pressure of the first squally wind and will bury all your dreams of a beautiful column covered with roses.

3. Begin to twist the column with the main lashes in a spiral. Again, keep in mind that lush flowering can be achieved only if the shoots are located at an angle of no more than 45 degrees with respect to the support.

4. Short side shoots to start around the pillar is optional. It will be enough to gently lift them and tie them to the support with soft tape or place them between the main shoots. So you add your floral design volume.

5. Loosely tie shoots around the column at the very top of the support, so as not to allow the bush to fall apart under the weight of inflorescences.

All these manipulations will be easy to carry out with compliant Rambler. If you plan to do this with climber, try to choose varieties with the most flexible shoots. The easiest way is to “teach” the bush to support from a young age.

After you have grown your climbing rose, learned how to properly feed and trim it, put the bush on the support, it remains only to sit comfortably in the shade of a blossoming rose bush and enjoy the worthy fruits of your labor. Good luck in breeding climers and ramblers!

Roses: description

According to archaeologists and historians, this beautiful flower has a very advanced age - about 25 million years! He gained world fame about 5 thousand years ago and, despite such a serious age, he still captivates a person with his beauty and fragrance.

This plant is symbol of beauty and purity, for a long time, this plant made aromatic essential oil, queens and queens took baths with rose petals, medieval knights sang a magic flower, it was grown in the gardens of the royal courts and monasteries. It is she who causes associations with beauty, refinement, luxury and harmony. Famous scientists and thinkers from ancient times did not cease to make attempts to learn everything about the rose, to bring out new varieties and unique varieties. Here you can learn all about roses from a to z.

How to grow bushes?

These flowers have always been famous for their beauty, variety of colors and light and unobtrusive aroma. All this allowed them to easily conquer the hearts of all gardeners. The form of the structure in all groups of roses, which are very difficult to count, one is a bush.

To decorate and refresh your garden, you can choose not one variety and variety This beautiful prickly flower, but as everywhere, there are recognized leaders among all this colorful variety. All varieties are divided among themselves into wild, old and modern.

All of them are also divided into groups. Wild and old species bloom in delightful lush color, but only once, so many prefer modern varieties, as they perfectly combine the beauty and pomp of old varieties, but have not lost their magical scent, and also delight the eye for the whole season.

Vintage garden. Despite the emergence of modern varieties, vintage varieties still continue to be at the peak of popularity. They dream to get collectors, professional gardeners, and just connoisseurs of beauty. Now you can often see quite rare varieties that were the privilege of rose gardens, in specialized nurseries or small, chamber gardens.

Park. Park varieties were unfairly forgotten for a period, but now the gardeners looked at them from a new perspective. These species are frost resistant, unpretentious. They do not need constant and expensive care. But the bushes during the flowering period are just amazing - lush and bright. Usually, these varieties can bloom all summer and are attractive because of their flavor.

Climbing. Climbing roses are distinguished by a rather violent growth, and, nevertheless, they are perfect for both large parks and small home gardens. Can easily control the growth of bushes. If climbing roses have no support, they will quickly grow to stately cascades and arches.

Hybrid tea. These magnificent roses feature large flowers. They are the most popular variety for landscaping gardens. When the tea and remontant rose was crossed, the “La France” variety appeared. It is this variety that is considered the forefather of all hybrid tea roses.

Room Roses. At present, mankind knows many varieties of roses, which are designed for residential premises, their hallmark is miniature and a variety of forms. In terms of color and beauty, this type of roses is not inferior to its classic relatives. In any season of the year and in any weather, indoor roses will bloom in a lush color and make others happy.

English. Roses bred on foggy Albion are deservedly recognized as favorites among the roses; these representatives were singled out on the basis of beautiful old roses and inherited a magnificent fragrance from them, crossed them with new varieties and it was for this reason that they absorbed all the best from modernity and antiquity. By right, this species can be called a pearl among others, all breeders strive to at least closely achieve the same ideal.

Whites. White representatives captivate and fascinate, they even cling to those who do not like this proud and beautiful flower, such a rose is the living embodiment of purity and innocence, inexperience and simplicity, it distinguishes it from the scarlet rival. If you decide to decorate the garden with roses, then this will be a win-win option - this flower is white, it will be the masterpiece that will attract views.

Blue. Separate attention is deserved by these strange representatives, selection surveys have reached the point that flowers with bluish and lilac petals were created, which under certain lighting become fantastically blue, like the spring sky!

Acquisition Rules

  • When choosing seedlings, always carefully inspect the version you like, make sure that it has no visible flaws or defects. Try to choose strong seedlings, no stains or yellowings, as well as strong plants. The roots should not be damaged, and the leaves should not be any spots of different colors or darkening.
  • If you choose a sapling of a grafted rose, then remember that it should have several stiffened strong shoots with whole bark. The root system must be well developed and have many branches.
  • It is better to choose flowers in containers with leaves, because it is possible to understand from the state of the leaves whether the plant is healthy. Shoots must be strong and foliage fresh. If you see that the leaves of a flower are pale, undeveloped - this is a clear sign that the plant has little light. Because of this, when transplanting, a rose can get sick or die.
  • If you are buying an adult flower that has previously grown in a greenhouse, then be sure to ask if it is grafted. Flowers of this family, which grow mainly in the central part of Russia, are most often grafted on the wild rose.

How to choose a grade

Often, when buying roses it is very rare to ask the seller for detailed information about the variety. And to find out what kind of frost resistance this species has, whether it is prone to disease, how long it blooms, etc. So, so that after the purchase you are not waiting for complete disappointment, try to buy roses in places where they will tell you in detail about any variety of roses, and advise the most popular ones. So it is better to choose nurseries or botanical gardens.

How to plant roses

According to the rules, flowers of this kind can be planted in open ground in spring and autumn periods, but provided that the earth is not frozen and its temperature is around 10 ° C, not lower! In the autumn period it is not necessary to land early a rose, it can harm it, so it will start growing at landing, and our unpredictable weather and climatic features will simply kill it.

For planting this flower, you must use the so-called landing pits. How is she done? For lovers of this beautiful flower, experts recommend preparing pits in the fall, however, this condition is forgotten by everyone. If you also missed this moment, then do not despair, dig a hole 2 - 2.5 weeks before the planned number of planting, this will allow the soil to settle. Remember that the depth and depth of the pit will depend on the type and quality of the soil, as well as the level of groundwater on your site. The depth of the landing pit should be calculated from the following conditions:

  1. Focus on the length of the roots of your rose,
  2. Add to this figure a couple of dozen cm
  3. As a result, the average depth of the required pit will be about 1 m.

The next stage of preparation of the pit will be manure fertilizer; for a special estimate, about 2 buckets of land are connected with 1 compost bucket, 1 peat bucket, a couple glasses of ash, as well as a handful of fertilizer and 1 cup of dolomite flour. If your soil is too clay, you need to add sand, but if, on the contrary, too sandy, then add clay.

Before planting this flower is necessary to prepare, it is carefully examine the entire bush and scissor dead roots and processes. The shoot itself is cut before the kidney, just half a centimeter higher, the cut itself is made at an angle of 45 °. If your plant already has new, young shoots of light green color, then they are also recommended to be removed, if they have already reached the top, then the easiest way is to trim the top completely.

Carefully inspect the root zone of the plant, remove all the rot and additionally cut too long roots, they will interfere with planting. Do not be afraid in place of old shoots grow new and young!

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